500S&W ammo?

Axle2010

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Hey guys i just ordered my first 500 in a 7.5" performance center and looking for ammo suggestions. I know I'll need to reload to shoot very much to favorite recipes for that would be great but until then what's your experience saying is the best/ most accurate bang for the buck? I have some Underwood 325 jhp on order and of course I'll have to try the 700 gr hard cast but I don't plan on paying $100+ for Hornady or high end hunting loads just yet. I'll be shooting at home and hopefully turning a few pigs inside out to start with. Federal Fusion looks decent at a fair price, any experience with those? Thanks guys
 
So accuracy is relative when it comes to that handcannon and I find the shooter usually well underperforms any of type of ammo. Honestly favorite probably is the Hornady, but the cheap magtech is by far what I plink about with and would recommend just about anyone shoot for practical purposes. I’ve had good luck with the federal ammo, but magtech is cheaper. The 700 grain TREX rounds are fun but not as fun as you’d think. They’ll punch a hole alright, but it’s rare when you really get to enjoy the difference in penetration more than the thump on your wrist. I’m far from an expert so take all this with a lot of salt. Also, if you don’t shoot a lot of big bore, warm up with the 44 and 460 before you step out with the 500. It’s kicks almost as bad as the BFG 45-70s. Honestly I’ve mostly switched to shooting the 460 with ammo from Sellier & Bellot that you can pick up for around the $1-2 mark. All of them will send plenty of “make dead” down range so I find the 460 a great combo of comfortable to shoot and cheap on the wallet.
 
For factory ammo that won’t break the bank but will still handle pigs and let you practice, skip the boutique stuff at first. The Federal Fusion 400gr is your best bang for the buck by a mile. Underwood 325 JHP is good but spicy. Do not start with 700gr hard cast unless you hate your wrists. And yes, you absolutely need to reload, 500 S&W is not sustainable without it.
 
Thanks guys I've got a few boxes of Underwood on the way to start with. I bought several boxes of that S&B for the 460 a while back, it's good enough but mine shoots the Fed Fusion much better. I'd like to try some Swift Aframes but don't want to throw $100 a box ammo at a target just yet lol
 
Federal Fusion is good stuff. The Swift is good but you are going to spend money seeing if it works in your gun. Barnes 275gr is cheaper and is easier on wrists and hands. See if it works for you accuracy wise.
You need to buy a set of RCBS dies and start loading.
TII bullets, are best for cast, they come PCed. Matt's bullets, even Sierra and Hornady will offer plenty of choices. You can take this a step farther and get some 500spl brass from Starline or maybe Midwayusa. Great for plinking and trigger time. Trust me even with Special loads you can take hogs all day. Sierra has load data online. The RCBS dies will load the 500mag and the special. TII has a 310gr, 405gr, and a 460gr with 2 cannelures. All PCed so no leading. Their are more offerings at TII. 500S&W is a lot of fun, since it can be loaded so many ways.
CT
 
Want to add,,,, Sportsman's Warehouse, Buds gun shop and a few others have sales and you can find the Factory stuff a lil cheaper if you shop. It's never as cheap as I'd like.
 
I find the Hornady 500gr XTP loads to be uncontrollable. Very spicy. I may have but a hole or two in the ceiling at the indoor range. The 350s are quite a bit tamer. I use handloads for mt X-frae built around 350gr Hornady bullets. Works in both the hand cannon and my lever gun.
 
What Lever gun do you have?
I find the Hornady 500gr XTP loads to be uncontrollable. Very spicy. I may have but a hole or two in the ceiling at the indoor range. The 350s are quite a bit tamer. I use handloads for mt X-frae built around 350gr Hornady bullets. Works in both the hand cannon and my lever gun.
I like the 350s, and the Sierra 400s. I really like the 405 cast from ,TII.
 
I was wondering the same thing. All I've seen chambered in 500 are the Spikedrivers, they look amazing but out of my budget.
 
What Lever gun do you have?

I like the 350s, and the Sierra 400s. I really like the 405 cast from ,TII.

Big Horn Armory Spikedriver. Graduation present to myself. My Marlin 45-70 is a bit more accurate than it is, but it's amazing up to 50 yards on hogs.
 
I have something interesting to share with you. I also have an 89 BHA. For what it's worth, I have a BFR in 500 JRH. The BFR uses the 500 S&W brass cut down to 1.4"
The 89 will function with either round.
Now the 89 CANNOT function with the 500 spl. It is too short. Also the Buffalo Bore Ammo in 500 JRH will not work because of the rim being turned down .006.
That was done to fit in a Freedom arms pistol and not interfere with the ratchet on the cylinder.
Not that you would want to start cutting down brass just to use in your 89 when 500S&W brass works fine.
But if hand loading and you wanted to load some lighter stuff you could. Yes, I know you can use different powders to get similar results. But if you ever crunched a brass case and wanted to salvage it you could. If you are hunting hogs with the 89, then you know a follow up shot has to be quick. A 350gr in the JRH length brass is less recoil and quicker follow up shot. FYI the JRH rounds allow for one more in the magazine tube. Also you can mix cartridges say for example a JRH then a 500 mag then a JRH or however you want, and it works fine. Loads and ejects either one.
Just some information I wanted to pass along. To me the 89 became a little more versatile after this discovery.
 
I have something interesting to share with you. I also have an 89 BHA. For what it's worth, I have a BFR in 500 JRH. The BFR uses the 500 S&W brass cut down to 1.4"
The 89 will function with either round.
Now the 89 CANNOT function with the 500 spl. It is too short. Also the Buffalo Bore Ammo in 500 JRH will not work because of the rim being turned down .006.
That was done to fit in a Freedom arms pistol and not interfere with the ratchet on the cylinder.
Not that you would want to start cutting down brass just to use in your 89 when 500S&W brass works fine.
But if hand loading and you wanted to load some lighter stuff you could. Yes, I know you can use different powders to get similar results. But if you ever crunched a brass case and wanted to salvage it you could. If you are hunting hogs with the 89, then you know a follow up shot has to be quick. A 350gr in the JRH length brass is less recoil and quicker follow up shot. FYI the JRH rounds allow for one more in the magazine tube. Also you can mix cartridges say for example a JRH then a 500 mag then a JRH or however you want, and it works fine. Loads and ejects either one.
Just some information I wanted to pass along. To me the 89 became a little more versatile after this discovery.
I've never had problems with my feeding or ejecting, but I'm using straight 500 brass, not AutoMax or anything turn down. My two complains about the 89 are that I've run out of elevation trying to zero scopes at 50 yards, and the ergonomics kind of suck. If you run anything other than the iron sights, the comb is waaaay too low to get a good cheek weld, but this seems typical for lever guns. Just due to the 89's size, everything is exaggerated.

I have a red dot on mine now and considering taking it off and going back to irons but I really don't want to go through the whole re-zero thing again. When I first encountered the elevation problem, I sent the rifle back to BHA for testing. Greg (the owner) took it out back, fired a few shots and sent it back to me with a note telling me to learn how to shoot.
 
I never mentioned automax. I have only cut to length 500 S&W brass. Let's move on.
I have the Skinner ghost ring sight on rear and the green lite pipe up front. This setup came with the rifle. Scout scope, red dot, irons,,, I hope you find what works for you.
 
I buy cases from Starline, and powder and primers where I can for the best price, and roll my own jacketed bullets with this die set made for RCBS Rock Chucker or similar press. These dies are made by a man in Oregon under the name of BT Sniper.

Bullets in front of dies are hollow points made using 45acp brass as a bullet jacket. You can make these bullets in any reasonable weight you want with the same dies. You can make FMJ, HP, SP or frangible rounds for use in indoor ranges. You can even make bonded cores for hunting if you want. I can buy commercial jackets from Corbins, use cartridge brass for bullet jackets as done here, or make jackets from cut lengths of 3/8" Type L or M hard copper tubing. Commercial jackets and cartridge cases are about .015 jacket thickness at the mouth of the jacket/case. Type L tubing is about .035 thick, and type M tubing is about .020 think. As you can see, variations or bullets types and weights are nearly endless.

These bullets cost me about 30 cents to make.

500 jacketed bullet.jpg
 

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