Husqvarna 1600/1640

Its a good point and may end up leaving it. The chamber cut turned out super smooth anyway.
 
Update: the chamber is cut, headspace is good, rounds feed properly and the internal magazine will hold 3 rounds with the chamber empty. It goes bang, so functionally, this Husqvarna is back to life as a 27 Nosler! I still need to install a recoil pad and parkerize some of the parts to reduce the shine because it's a hunting rifle. The good news is the really difficult parts of the build are done so I'm on the home stretch.
IMG20260830163927.jpg
 
Great job, lloking good.
What barrel contour are you using, it looks quite heavy?
 
The lightest I could get in a 26" from the manufacturer was a #4 taper. I lightened it a bit on the lathe but it's definitely not a pencil barrel like what originally came on it. I had to widen the barrel channel a bit out near the end for the larger diameter barrel and will probably need to do a little more to get a truly free-floated barrel. I will hold off on that until I do the glass bedding so I know exactly how much I need to remove once the receiver is as solid as I can make it.
 
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I wasn't happy with the condition of the stock so after I fully free floated the barrel, I stripped it and am two coats into the refinish with Tru-Oil. I still need to glass bed the action and parkerize the bolt shroud, receiver and bolt handle. Home stretch before I put the scope on it and find out if this rifle will group.
IMG20260909212536.jpg
 
Well, the final coat is on the stock and has dried for 6 days. Bedding is next, then parkerizing after I confirm it groups and all of the metal work is done.
IMG20260923163349.jpg
 
From a purely aesthetic standpoint I agree with you. If this were going to be a safe queen, that would be the way I would go. I intend to hunt this rifle though. Miles of hiking, fence crossings, canyons with trees and firing it rested on branches, backpacks etc. parkerizing holds up better in my experience to actual real-world use. Plus, the matte finish is preferable for those sharp eyed animals I hunt.
 
Proper rust blue is far more dureably than factory hot tank blue, and is usually a satin to matte finish.
But it is your rifle, so whatever makes you happy.
 
BlueFlyer said:
Proper rust blue is far more dureably than factory hot tank blue, and is usually a satin to matte finish.
But it is your rifle, so whatever makes you happy.
Click to expand...
Interesting. My experience has been that parkerizing holds up better to corrosion and abrasion than rust bluing. Maybe I'm doing something wrong with my bluing? I do know that bluing doesn't add any thickness and parkerizing does so I will have to keep that in mind for the little fiddly bits on the safety/shroud.
 
Update to the saga: I mounted the scope today and found that the comb on the stock isn't high enough for me to get a good cheek weld, even with low rings. I am now refinishing a schnabel 1640 stock with a higher comb. Two steps forward, one step back. The original finish is off and the wood is showing some character with the first coat of oil and some sanding.
 
The first two coats are down now with some diligent sanding. The stock is beginning to show some really nice character. This may be turning into a Bob Ross style "happy accident"
IMG20260929105012.jpg
 
So, the bedding is done and will be dry by tomorrow. I pre mounted the scope just in case it applied any amount of torque to the action. I wanted the bedding set for the full setup I intend to use (admittedly, that might be overkill). The wood turned out really nice so the forced change of stocks turned out ok.IMG20261001200750.jpg
 
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