SENEGAL: Falémé's Inferno

Day 4 of the hunt

Descending..

19/03/26

Up at half past four for breakfast and on the road by five. We picked up Fa-Gai again and headed deeper into the bush. We crossed several dry riverbeds filled with felled trees laid across the loose sand to provide grip. After navigating a few of these, disaster struck — we got stuck. Despite every effort, the vehicle wouldn’t budge. We tried everything, but eventually had to start digging. The first light of dawn was just beginning to appear.

It was decided that the driver would keep digging while Sina, Fa-Gai and I set off to explore the surrounding area. We were determined to salvage a successful hunting day. Mission Koba continued.

After walking for over an hour, Fa-Gai suddenly spotted an enormous warthog. I saw its large body in the distance. Sina had cut a shooting stick the day before, and he quickly set it up. In the heat of the moment I saw two animals moving. My brain was processing too many things at once. I heard “à gauche” in my ear, but I didn’t register it and pulled the trigger. I shot to the right. I saw the animal I was aiming at jump up and immediately realised I had hit it in the gut. Damn — I had shot the wrong animal.

Because of the sheer size of the huge warthog, I had aimed — or so I thought — just behind the ribcage. But with my scope, I had ended up shooting the smaller warthog standing next to it. I looked at Sina, who gave me a disappointed look and gestured emphatically while explaining left and right in French. I understood and had heard the instruction while aiming, but simply hadn’t processed it.

At the same time, I reloaded and walked towards the wounded warthog. Its entire stomach and intestines were hanging out. The little warthog quickly breathed its last. I was annoyed with myself, but at least it was a small male and not a sow. If only I had paid more attention in French class. Unfortunately, this wouldn’t be the last language mix-up of the trip.

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We decided to collect the small warthog later and immediately set off in pursuit of the big “keiler”. We followed the fresh tracks, but bumped into him several times. In the thick vegetation it was impossible to get close. We also found fresh bushbuck tracks, but pursuing them in this dense bush was equally difficult. We came across some old koba droppings, but nothing worth following.

On the way back we picked up the small warthog. Fa-Gai and Sina quickly found a suitable branch, tied the animal to it, and carried it back to where our driver Ali-Ou was still hard at work trying to free the 4x4. We tried everything, but even with all our strength we couldn’t get it out. During the heavy physical effort, my shirt tore completely. Our water was also running low. Sina decided to call for help, but first had to walk quite a distance to regain signal. It was tough going in the bush with the heat and the physical exertion. As if things weren’t bad enough, one of the tyres also burst. Fortunately the driver was well prepared and, by Senegalese standards, had a decent spare wheel.

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Two hours later the rescue team arrived. With the help of another 4x4 we were back on the road within minutes and reached camp around 3 p.m.

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The young warthog still earned me congratulations back at camp and the obligatory photos. At least it meant extra meat for the camp. This meat is purely for the hunters though — the staff are all Muslim and do not eat warthog.

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That said, Senegal is flexible; some tribes consider themselves Muslim but still traditionally eat warthog.Because of the late return, I decided to skip the evening small-game session. Instead, I had a few drinks with the group of four French hunters who were on their final day and would be leaving the next morning. We enjoyed a farewell dinner together, exchanged numbers and said our goodbyes. Then it was off to bed.Tomorrow is already day 5 of the hunt. We leave at half past three in the morning, with a wake-up call at 3 a.m.
 
Next installment please......
Here is the next ;) I'm writing whenever I've got the time. I'll try to post the next installment tomorrow otherwise it will be Friday.
 
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Day 5 of the hunt

Deeper and deeper....

20/03/26

Up very early — awake at 3 a.m. and on the road by half past three. For the first time we took some major sandy tracks, similar to those in Namibia but less well maintained. Senegal generally has surprisingly good roads, especially compared to the vehicles that drive on them. There is no MOT (state vehicle inspection) here. It’s common to see cars, motorcycles and trucks without lights, driving on flat tyres, or heavily overloaded. Anything seems possible.

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After nearly three hours of a punishing journey, we arrived in complete darkness at a small settlement where we picked up the local village tracker. I eyed them somewhat warily, as they are essentially my competition for the limited game that remains. At the same time, you need their knowledge and skills. You can’t really blame them — it’s about survival.We drove a bit further south and shortly after half past six we continued on foot into the bush. We soon found plenty of warthog droppings — clear signs of a lot of recent activity, but nothing fresh.

After more than two and a half hours of walking we came across many koba tracks: lots of old droppings and spoor marks baked into the ground from the rainy season. The koba leaves a beautiful heart-shaped print.

The ground was covered in dry leaves, making silent walking impossible. Once again we saw nothing. The heat was brutal, and around 10 a.m. we returned to the 4x4. After another unpleasant three-hour drive, we made it back to camp.

To my surprise, two new guests had arrived: a couple from central France, Veronique and Yves. They know the area well and have hunted here multiple times before. Veronique is an experienced big-game hunter who shot a magnificent koba in 2019, along with an excellent bushbuck and two duikers. 2019 must have been a very good year. She is now after her second koba and whatever else the bush has to offer. Yves, a talented big-game hunter himself, is mainly here for small game (including warthog — le phaco). They hunt together: in the mornings he joins her big-game outings, and in the evenings the roles are reversed.

We clicked quickly despite the language barrier. There’s nothing quite like shared hunting to bring people together. Yves invited me to join him for the evening small-game session. I gladly accepted.

After lunch and the usual nap, we left camp around 5 p.m. Veronique came along with Yves. Just past Diakaba we turned into the bush, and after about ten minutes we stopped and set off on foot.Out of 13 shots I bagged 5 birds: 3 francolins, 1 green pigeon and 1 turtle dove. Yves got 4. My evening couldn’t have gone better. Even if the other sessions went in Yves’ favour, on this night the Dutchman beat the Frenchman. To be honest, Yves is a much more skilled shotgun shooter — I can still learn a lot from him.

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After an hour and a half the session was over. We laid out a small tableau (excuse the poor photos in advance).

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We celebrated with gin & tonics and beer, toasting the small game. After a long day I decided to go to bed early. Tomorrow is Korité (Eid al-Fitr) in Senegal, so I’ve given the guys the morning off. Only a small evening session planned. This gives me a chance to give my body some extra rest, sleep in, and enjoy a swim.
 
Very interesting report from unknown to me areas to read about and the curiosity of it .
 
Loving this - thank you for sharing it. I look forward to the next installment...

Good luck

Can't imagine going out in 42*C!!
 
Loving this - thank you for sharing it. I look forward to the next installment...

Good luck

Can't imagine going out in 42*C!!
It was gruesome. All of the days had these temperatures. When googling for the weather I got the warning: extreme weather.
 
Day 6

Korité

21/03/26

I slept in properly today, enjoyed a nice breakfast and a swim. I updated my hunting journal and smoked a modest little Davidoff cigar. It was a wonderfully relaxed day.

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It was the end of Ramadan — Korité in Senegal. I had a nap before lunch. Around 3 p.m. I was woken from a deep sleep by Babacar knocking on the door. The French couple had returned and he asked if I wanted to come for lunch. They were late because Yves and Veronique had car trouble on the way back.

Yves decided to skip the evening session, so I went out alone. I didn’t note much about it. It was a reasonable session — I brought in a few pieces of game — but I forgot to write the details in my journal. The only thing I clearly remember is that my first shots produced a nice double on turtle doves. After that, my shooting was rather mediocre.
 
Really enjoying your report DieJager. Look forward to learning more.
 
Day 7

Descending Another Circle..

22/03/206

A terrible night’s sleep, which inspired the title of this chapter. In Dante Alighieri’s Divine Comedy, the protagonist descends deeper and deeper into hell. Given the extreme heat and the challenges we faced, it felt fitting.

The air conditioning failed in the middle of the night. Water was on the floor and the suffocating heat that followed made sleep impossible. It was all the more frustrating to be woken by the alarm at 3 a.m. when every minute of sleep counts.

This turned out to be a sign of things to come.

I had assumed my usual driver Ali-Ou would be there, but he wasn’t. He had been assigned to another French hunter I had met the day before — the friendly Jacques. In his place was a different driver, whom I quickly nicknamed Max Verstappen (though Jos would actually have been a better comparison, as you’ll see later).

We were supposed to leave at half past three, but he arrived more than three-quarters of an hour late, so the mood was already set. Today I would be sharing the trip with Yves and Veronique.

“Max” (or rather Jos) turned out to be a reckless driver who got on my nerves from the start. He drove far too fast for the terrain, stopped dead in dry riverbeds instead of maintaining momentum, and seemed to have only just learned how to change gears. To make matters worse, this was the same driver who had driven on a flat tyre the previous day while transporting Yves and Veronique.

After several hours of being shaken around by his poor driving, we finally reached our destination. I set off on foot with Sina and Alidji (another PH). We agreed on a rendezvous point at 10 a.m., after which Yves and Veronique would hunt in a different area with their PHs and the driver.

We covered a good distance on foot. At times I walked on autopilot, my thoughts drifting between hope and doubt — would I even see any big game on this trip? My hunt was already halfway through. Thoughts of a buffalo were long gone; there had been no sightings or fresh spoor, and the areas where buffalo might still be present lie outside my outfitter’s concession anyway.

The other big-game species remained elusive.

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We spotted a jackal and later found fresh bushbuck tracks, but we couldn’t close the distance. Then Alidji spotted movement — a warthog (phaco). I waited tensely, but it turned out to be a sow with two young. No big boar nearby. Another morning without success.

We reached the rendezvous point after ten o’clock. There was no sign of the French couple or our driver. Sina didn’t waste the opportunity and made us both a comfortable bed from a special type of leaf that supposedly keeps insects away. He pointed to it, and I made the best of it. Between the physical exertion and the early starts, I quickly fell into a deep sleep.

Over an hour later I woke up drenched in sweat. It was already half past eleven and there was still no sign of our driver. I looked questioningly at Sina and Alidji, but they had no answers. Perhaps the others had had success, which would explain the delay.

Shortly after twelve I heard footsteps. Kemoro, the Black PH who had been with the French couple, appeared and gestured for us to follow him. I tried to find out what was going on, but my limited French didn’t get me far. We walked a few kilometres before I saw the pickup. The problem was immediately obvious: a flat tyre.

Veronique was in the vehicle. Yves had decided to go small-game hunting instead. One of the PHs had walked off to find signal. The plan was to contact the local trackers in the village and arrange help from there. I didn’t see the driver at first and started cursing, assuming his driving was to blame. When I learned he had a spare wheel but the idiot hadn’t brought a wheel wrench, I asked where he was. Then I saw him casually laughing in the back of the pickup, completely unfazed.

A little later another PH arrived on foot. He had managed to contact a nearby village. They were coming by motorcycle — it would take over an hour — and they would bring water and a wheel wrench. At least we had some clarity.

An hour later the rescue team arrived with a rather flimsy wheel wrench. That’s when the real trouble began. The driver pulled out the so-called spare tyre — a soft, damaged one. I told him it would never work, but he insisted. They couldn’t get the wheel nuts loose and asked for my help. The first two bolts snapped off immediately.

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The spare tyre...

We eventually managed to change the wheel, but things only got worse — the “spare” was already sitting on the rim. It was never going to last, but the driver kept pushing. He drove far too fast again. Yves and I repeatedly shouted at him to slow down, warning that the tyre wouldn’t hold, but he wouldn’t listen. A few kilometres further on, the tyre came completely off the rim. At that point Yves saw something snap inside me and urged me to stay calm.

In my broken French I told the driver that he had only one job, that he was an amateur, that he had no proper spare tyre and no wheel wrench, and that he ignored all advice. He muttered “merde”. “Yes, because of you,” I snapped back.

Once again we were stuck in the middle of nowhere with no signal. Against all advice, he decided to drive on the rim. We held on tight and had to keep telling him to slow down. Miraculously, we reached a temporary cattle herders’ camp we had passed before, where we finally had reception. The wheel was completely destroyed.

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Fortunately we managed to reach Ali-Ou, who came to us with a proper spare wheel. In the meantime, the men went to a nearby palm tree, expertly stripped it, and harvested the heart — a local delicacy. It tasted excellent in that moment. It was fascinating to watch how much work and effort goes into harvesting something that ends up so cheaply in tins back home. The palm heart provided a welcome distraction.

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Two hours later Ali-Ou arrived. I immediately grabbed all my gear and made it crystal clear that under no circumstances would I get back in the vehicle with “Max”. (Jos would actually have been more fitting — Jos Verstappen was known for more crashes than podiums in his F1 days, unlike his son Max.)

We reached camp after five o’clock. I hadn’t eaten properly for more than 14 hours (palm heart excluded) and was desperate for a shower. The air conditioning had been fixed and dinner tasted wonderful. I made it very clear to the owner that I would finish the trip only with Ali-Ou as my driver and never wanted to see this one again. The message got through, because neither I nor the other French guests had to endure his driving for the rest of the trip.

Tomorrow I’m heading out with Jacques. We’ll drive together and then split up in the hunting area. Hopefully a better day.
 
Day 8

A Glimmer of Light..

23/03/26

A longer drive today towards the village of Nafadji in the far southeast, close to the borders with Mali and Guinea. First, I finally had an omelette — Jacques taught me that you can order one. That explains why the cooks were always ready in the morning. I’m clearly a bit slow with these things.

After three hours we arrived. Jacques, being the senior hunter, got the front seat. With my large frame, sitting in the back was not the most comfortable journey. We reached the village before first light, picked up the local trackers (still a nice euphemism) and continued south.

We could see the mountain tops in the distance — the Monts de Falémé, according to Google is what the local people call them. This is the habitat of the extremely rare Western Lord Derby’s eland, of which only a few hundred remain. The area is drier, with a lot of basalt rock.

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After another beautiful sunrise, the new tracker set a strong pace. The terrain is more open here and we would cover many kilometres in this varied, hilly landscape — alternating between open areas and thick forest, as Sina explained. The ground in the dense bush was covered in a thick layer of dry leaves, making silent movement impossible. There were deep dry riverbeds. It was a stunning piece of nature.

We found koba tracks a day old, and fresh rubbing damage from a bushbuck. We followed the spoor and arrived at a hill with a deep riverbed below. On the other side was a patch of dense green vegetation. The bushbuck tracks led us straight towards it.

Then suddenly a flash — an animal bolted. I saw something brown moving up the hill. For a brief moment it stopped. I heard the command to shoot, pulled the trigger, and the animal dropped. I had hit it perfectly behind the shoulder. It turned out to be a young bushbuck. Sina and the village tracker estimated it at about two years old.

Sina was ecstatic and so was I. After eight days, my first piece of big game — and it was down cleanly. What a way to start the day. It was still early, and I hoped this was a sign of more success to come. The excitement was slightly tempered when we examined the bushbuck more closely. The reason it had stopped so abruptly was that it had run straight into a snare. That was exactly what had given me the time to take the shot. The wire was tight around its midsection. But beggars can’t be choosers. This is Africa.

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Following Islamic custom, the throat was slit. Sina and the local tracker made a carrying pole to transport the animal back to the pickup. We arrived just after half past eight. It was too late to head back out, so we relaxed and waited for Jacques to return, hopefully with success. Jacques has been successful in Falémé before — he shot a beautiful koba two years ago and is now after another one. All the French hunters seem to have only one goal: a magnificent koba.

The long drive back was interrupted by a stop from the national police for a permit check. Everything was in order. Jacques had forgotten his ID, but when he gave his name and the officer said his brother had the same name, everyone laughed and it was fine. For the rest of the trip, we and the driver jokingly shouted “My name is Jacques” in French at every checkpoint, implying that everything should then be okay.

The atmosphere back at camp was excellent — the first bushbuck of the season. Literally everyone, right down to the cleaning lady, wanted a photo with it. For lunch we had the heart and kidneys, and the backstrap was served in the evening. After a few drinks I had a nap, then enjoyed the rest of the evening with a swim in the pool.

I still have four days left to make Mission Koba a success. It’s going to be tight, but in Africa anything is possible.
 
Day 7

Descending Another Circle..

22/03/206

A terrible night’s sleep, which inspired the title of this chapter. In Dante Alighieri’s Divine Comedy, the protagonist descends deeper and deeper into hell. Given the extreme heat and the challenges we faced, it felt fitting.

The air conditioning failed in the middle of the night. Water was on the floor and the suffocating heat that followed made sleep impossible. It was all the more frustrating to be woken by the alarm at 3 a.m. when every minute of sleep counts.

This turned out to be a sign of things to come.

I had assumed my usual driver Ali-Ou would be there, but he wasn’t. He had been assigned to another French hunter I had met the day before — the friendly Jacques. In his place was a different driver, whom I quickly nicknamed Max Verstappen (though Jos would actually have been a better comparison, as you’ll see later).

We were supposed to leave at half past three, but he arrived more than three-quarters of an hour late, so the mood was already set. Today I would be sharing the trip with Yves and Veronique.

“Max” (or rather Jos) turned out to be a reckless driver who got on my nerves from the start. He drove far too fast for the terrain, stopped dead in dry riverbeds instead of maintaining momentum, and seemed to have only just learned how to change gears. To make matters worse, this was the same driver who had driven on a flat tyre the previous day while transporting Yves and Veronique.

After several hours of being shaken around by his poor driving, we finally reached our destination. I set off on foot with Sina and Alidji (another PH). We agreed on a rendezvous point at 10 a.m., after which Yves and Veronique would hunt in a different area with their PHs and the driver.

We covered a good distance on foot. At times I walked on autopilot, my thoughts drifting between hope and doubt — would I even see any big game on this trip? My hunt was already halfway through. Thoughts of a buffalo were long gone; there had been no sightings or fresh spoor, and the areas where buffalo might still be present lie outside my outfitter’s concession anyway.

The other big-game species remained elusive.

View attachment 767565We spotted a jackal and later found fresh bushbuck tracks, but we couldn’t close the distance. Then Alidji spotted movement — a warthog (phaco). I waited tensely, but it turned out to be a sow with two young. No big boar nearby. Another morning without success.

We reached the rendezvous point after ten o’clock. There was no sign of the French couple or our driver. Sina didn’t waste the opportunity and made us both a comfortable bed from a special type of leaf that supposedly keeps insects away. He pointed to it, and I made the best of it. Between the physical exertion and the early starts, I quickly fell into a deep sleep.

Over an hour later I woke up drenched in sweat. It was already half past eleven and there was still no sign of our driver. I looked questioningly at Sina and Alidji, but they had no answers. Perhaps the others had had success, which would explain the delay.

Shortly after twelve I heard footsteps. Kemoro, the Black PH who had been with the French couple, appeared and gestured for us to follow him. I tried to find out what was going on, but my limited French didn’t get me far. We walked a few kilometres before I saw the pickup. The problem was immediately obvious: a flat tyre.

Veronique was in the vehicle. Yves had decided to go small-game hunting instead. One of the PHs had walked off to find signal. The plan was to contact the local trackers in the village and arrange help from there. I didn’t see the driver at first and started cursing, assuming his driving was to blame. When I learned he had a spare wheel but the idiot hadn’t brought a wheel wrench, I asked where he was. Then I saw him casually laughing in the back of the pickup, completely unfazed.

A little later another PH arrived on foot. He had managed to contact a nearby village. They were coming by motorcycle — it would take over an hour — and they would bring water and a wheel wrench. At least we had some clarity.

An hour later the rescue team arrived with a rather flimsy wheel wrench. That’s when the real trouble began. The driver pulled out the so-called spare tyre — a soft, damaged one. I told him it would never work, but he insisted. They couldn’t get the wheel nuts loose and asked for my help. The first two bolts snapped off immediately.

View attachment 767566
The spare tyre...

We eventually managed to change the wheel, but things only got worse — the “spare” was already sitting on the rim. It was never going to last, but the driver kept pushing. He drove far too fast again. Yves and I repeatedly shouted at him to slow down, warning that the tyre wouldn’t hold, but he wouldn’t listen. A few kilometres further on, the tyre came completely off the rim. At that point Yves saw something snap inside me and urged me to stay calm.

In my broken French I told the driver that he had only one job, that he was an amateur, that he had no proper spare tyre and no wheel wrench, and that he ignored all advice. He muttered “merde”. “Yes, because of you,” I snapped back.

Once again we were stuck in the middle of nowhere with no signal. Against all advice, he decided to drive on the rim. We held on tight and had to keep telling him to slow down. Miraculously, we reached a temporary cattle herders’ camp we had passed before, where we finally had reception. The wheel was completely destroyed.

View attachment 767567Fortunately we managed to reach Ali-Ou, who came to us with a proper spare wheel. In the meantime, the men went to a nearby palm tree, expertly stripped it, and harvested the heart — a local delicacy. It tasted excellent in that moment. It was fascinating to watch how much work and effort goes into harvesting something that ends up so cheaply in tins back home. The palm heart provided a welcome distraction.

View attachment 767568Two hours later Ali-Ou arrived. I immediately grabbed all my gear and made it crystal clear that under no circumstances would I get back in the vehicle with “Max”. (Jos would actually have been more fitting — Jos Verstappen was known for more crashes than podiums in his F1 days, unlike his son Max.)

We reached camp after five o’clock. I hadn’t eaten properly for more than 14 hours (palm heart excluded) and was desperate for a shower. The air conditioning had been fixed and dinner tasted wonderful. I made it very clear to the owner that I would finish the trip only with Ali-Ou as my driver and never wanted to see this one again. The message got through, because neither I nor the other French guests had to endure his driving for the rest of the trip.

Tomorrow I’m heading out with Jacques. We’ll drive together and then split up in the hunting area. Hopefully a better day.
Seriously makes one reassess a safari in Senegal! Between communication problems and drivers like this... it redefines "trying one's patience!"
 
. Seriously makes one reassess a safari in Senegal! Between communication problems and drivers like this... it redefines "trying one's patience!"
At the moment yes it was frustrating. Looking back on it just brings extra flavour to the trip. :ROFLMAO:
 
Day 9 of the hunt

Purgatory..

24/03/26

After yesterday’s success I slept well and woke up in high spirits. The morning started at 4 a.m. and we left at half past four. Jacques joined us again.

The drive was considerably shorter than yesterday, which was pleasant. We were hunting a different section of the ZIC Falémé. I dozed off a few times during the drive — I’m getting used to these rough bush tracks. Along the way we picked up a village tracker — or so I thought. It later turned out he was also an employee of the outfitter. I’ve forgotten his name.

After just over an hour of walking there was sudden excitement. To our right we saw movement — three magnificent koba burst away. What incredible animals! At the same time came the sinking feeling that we had just missed our chance. A big bull, a cow and a calf disappeared at a gallop. Now what?

We made a plan to loop around in a wide circle to get the wind in our favour. We followed the fresh tracks and after another hour one of the trackers stopped abruptly. He pointed to a thicket about 40 metres ahead. I could see an animal standing, but only its belly was visible.

They gestured urgently for me to shoot, but I could only see the paunch. I couldn’t see the hindquarters or the shoulder. “Kill it, kill it!” they whispered, but I only had the belly in view. Those few seconds felt like an eternity. I ran through every scenario in my head. The unnamed PH told me to shoot into the bush, but I thought it was too risky. I couldn’t see exactly where I was aiming and didn’t want to wound the animal unnecessarily. Then the massive koba bolted. I tried to aim but there was too much vegetation in the way.

Both men were disappointed. “Why didn’t you shoot?” I explained that I didn’t have a clear, ethical shot, had no proper perspective on the animal’s size due to the poor visibility, and didn’t want to risk wounding it. They had a different opinion: just shoot. I will replay the moment many times in my head, but I still believe I made the right decision. Later in camp, all the French hunters agreed with me. The PHs are known for urging you to shoot — meat is meat — but you have to stand firm to say no. In the end, you are the one responsible for your shot. The only alternative I can think of is that I could have aimed at the spine, but that would have been a risky offhand shot at that distance.

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Koba spoor

We continued tracking while I pondered what I could have done differently, but with no further result. On the long drive back the same thoughts kept circling in my mind.

Back at camp two new French hunters had arrived, both in law enforcement but from different branches. Very pleasant and experienced hunters. Philip (I might be mixing up the names) had shot a fantastic buffalo in the area in 2018 and a beautiful koba a few years later. Maybe I’m ten years too late. They reassured me that simply seeing a koba is already a success and that I had made the right call. My sighting was the first koba spotted this season. The drought is really helping in the animal sightings, less water, less places they can be.

After a drink and a nap I had lunch. I dreamt beautifully of those koba — what magnificent animals they are. I would love nothing more than to bring one back successfully. I’m full of energy and hope I can make it happen. The euphoria rose even higher when Veronique and Yves returned. Veronique had shot a fantastic warthog. I watched it being cleaned and the tusks expertly removed.

No evening session today. I’m saving all my energy for tomorrow morning’s hunt. Mission Koba continues!
 
Great story.

I remember the airline crew setting off insect spray bombs inside the passenger cabin while we sat on the tarmac in Senegal. Thinking I may prefer the Malaria to cancer.
 
Day 10

All Hope Seems Lost

25/03/26

Today we returned to the same area, hoping to finally put a koba on the table. The second tracker today was Moussa.

After an hour, the exact same thing happened again. In a patch of dense vegetation, less than 30 metres in front of us, three koba suddenly appeared and bolted. Damn — it was the same group. I watched those magnificent horns disappear. There was no time to aim or shoot. Just moments earlier we had spotted a jackal. Frustration was running high.

We followed the tracks all morning, but in the thick vegetation luck simply wasn’t on our side. We got close several times but could never close the distance. In the mostly dry riverbeds we saw the deep tracks of the bull where he had drunk from the last remaining puddle. Unfortunately the heat was rising rapidly, the koba were on high alert, and we had to call off the hunt. It felt like definitive failure, even though we still had two full hunting days ahead.

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In the evening four of us hunters went out for small game. I brought in 8 turtle doves plus a good number of birds were shot by the others — a nice tableau that obviously had to be celebrated with plenty of drinks.


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Tough breaks...
 
Day 11 of the hunt

Together in Purgatory

26/03/26

Today is the penultimate hunting day. Once again we were up very early. We headed back to the area near Nafadji where I had the good fortune of shooting the bushbuck earlier. I travelled with the friendly hunter Jacques — a true bon vivant and a wonderful person all round.

Up again at 3 a.m. to leave at half past three. I enjoyed a nice omelette with a baguette and, for a change, a cup of tea so I could catch some extra sleep during the long drive to the hunting area.

Today’s village tracker was Weyo. The terrain remains challenging but is truly beautiful — rolling hills alternating with almost bare basalt plains and dense forests carpeted with dry leaves.

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Weyo has a very distinctive style. He moves extremely slowly, not focused on covering kilometres but on moving as silently as possible. This tactic quickly paid off when we spotted movement on one of the plains. No fewer than six warthogs, but none worth shooting.

Hours passed without seeing anything else. Then I heard a large troop of baboons. According to my permit I am allowed to shoot up to five of this species — the Guinea baboon. The trackers weren’t particularly interested as they don’t eat the meat, but the animals are considered pests. Since it was already getting late, I decided to try and take a large male as part of pest control.

We moved closer. The baboons were making a lot of noise. Then came the next language mix-up. I was scanning through the trees when I heard “grand papa”. I pointed in that direction and the words were repeated: “grand papa”. Thinking Sina had spotted a big male, I took the shot. I saw the baboon drop — it had just been crossing an open spot. Almost immediately I had the feeling it wasn’t a large animal.

I asked Sina again, “Grand papa?” That’s when it dawned on me that he had been asking me whether it was a big male, not telling me that it was. When we reached the animal, it turned out to be a young female. She breathed her last. It wasn’t a pretty sight, and despite the shot being legal, I was disappointed it wasn’t a large male. I’ll spare you the grim photo I took — I didn’t have the energy or desire to take a nicer one. Since it was a successful hunt, the local tracker received his tip (they only get a tip on success here). The outfit’s employees receive their share at the end of my trip.

Back at the vehicle we waited for Jacques. When he returned it was clear he was in a foul mood. He had been walking with his trackers, rifle in hand, when an absolutely massive koba appeared just 15 metres away. He raised his rifle, pulled the trigger… and heard click. He hadn’t fully chambered a round or cocked the rifle (I’m not sure exactly how the Blaser R8 works). At the sound of the click the animal took off at full speed — and that was that. Jacques cursed a lot on the way back and kept falling silent. I know the feeling all too well; he was replaying the moment over and over in his head. What an opportunity, and what a frustration. I felt every bit of his bitterness with him.

We were together in purgatory. So close, yet so far away.

After lunch and a few drinks we enjoyed the swimming pool and even more drinks. Tomorrow is the final chance — wake-up at half past three, departure at four. My heart is burning with desire for a koba, but at the same time I’m looking forward to the end of this trip and being reunited with my family. Regardless of what happens tomorrow, the journey has already been a success. You truly appreciate life when confronted with the raw reality of existence in this part of Africa. We are blessed. Yet for now, I remain in purgatory, searching for redemption.
 
Wish you the best on your last day :D Cheers:
 

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