Question on Browning Belgium .375

I am looking at a Belgium made Browning Hi Power Rifle in .375. I know about the "Saltwood" years from 66-72 (mainly), and it scares the dickens out of me to lay down Medallion or Olympian money and get a saltwood gun. But I also know in the 67-68 time frame they switched from the the long (controlled-round feed) extractor to the short (push-feed) extractor. I have read on these very boards that the Long extractor is preferred for dangerous game due to needing a quick follow up for a potential charge and if you "short strike" the bolt during that tense time you are screwed. But my DG rifle is going to be my .416 Rigby. This Browning .375 will not be going to Africa. It will be more of a Large North America Rifle (Big bear, Moose, Elk, etc.) Much less stressful follow up shops and a shorter bolt action will actually load that second round quicker.
The one I am leaning towards buying is a later model, so I avoid the saltwood crisis but I get the shorter extractor.
Thoughts?

the later models I believe are made in Japan and a totally different rifle .you want the Belgium made mauser it is the best deal on the used gun market and in line with pre 64 Winchesters ,stay away from the push feed brownings bbr,s

What you're looking at is probably a good functioning rifle, but I suspect resale would be a big challenge if you ever decided to sell it. As you've probably already discovered, most folks who want a Belgium Browning Hi-Power rifle want a pre-salt era CRF FN-based one. If it's a great deal and you don't mind being married to it, then maybe; but if it were me, I'd spend the extra to get an early-mid 60's FN gun (I prefer the Safari grades).

pjaln said:

the later models I believe are made in Japan and a totally different rifle .you want the Belgium made mauser it is the best deal on the used gun market and in line with pre 64 Winchesters ,stay away from the push feed brownings bbr,s

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No. They were all made in Belgium up thru 74-75. All the barrels are marked made in Belgium. Rhe Japan tears came later.

cash_tx said:

What you're looking at is probably a good functioning rifle, but I suspect resale would be a big challenge if you ever decided to sell it. As you've probably already discovered, most folks who want a Belgium Browning Hi-Power rifle want a pre-salt era CRF FN-based one. If it's a great deal and you don't mind being married to it, then maybe; but if it were me, I'd spend the extra to get an early-mid 60's FN gun (I prefer the Safari grades).

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I get what you are saying. And you are not wrong. But this would not be for resale. I would, in fact be married to it I guess. I already have a Safari grade, and they are nice, but I’m looking for one with that scrolling and wildlife scenes that the Safari just don’t do.

The Browning High Power rifles are some of the best factory rifles ever made. I for one would not be put off by a salt wood model priced accordingly. The salt pitting is surface only and does not affect structural integrity. Also, the short extractor model is a fine rifle.

The rifle should come with an inspection period. If you buy it, just remove the stock and see if there’s any pitting. Not all stocks from the salt era were actually cured with salt. If yours is rust and pit free you’re good to go. If there’s pitting, then send it back for a refund. One caveat…..for the love of all that’s holy….if your screwdrivers came from a big box home improvement center DO NOT mess with the stock. Have a gunsmith do it for you.

As far as the extractor goes, the CRF version is preferable. That said, I’ve never seen a HiPower Safari, Medallion or Olympian in a major caliber that was a push feed. I guess they did make them, as you’ve indicated. Just surprised.

migrabill said:

No. They were all made in Belgium up thru 74-75. All the barrels are marked made in Belgium. Rhe Japan tears came later.

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the early ones had a beautiful barrel contour

My understanding of the Browning High Power line is the ones from O6 based cases through the magnums had FN actions. The Browning High Powers with 308 length cases were Sako actions with a round top. Definitely push feed. I have one in 30 06 but not fancy level but pre salt wood and one in 308 that was salt wood gun. Someone saved it before I got it and put in a beautifully figured piece of wood. There are a few minor pits on underside of action but nothing that would affect the integrity of the gun. Proof in fact that the research on the serial # was correct.

For what it's worth, I have a 1968 Safari Grade in 308 Norma Mag that still shows zero signs of any salt wood issue after all these years. My understanding is that the blanks near the bottom of the pile were the ones most affected (luck of the draw), and it was much more common with Medallion and Olympian grade rifles than the Safari Grades.

PS - my rifle is CRF, and I think the push feed FN actions started around 1970.

Doug3006 said:

The rifle should come with an inspection period. If you buy it, just remove the stock and see if there’s any pitting. Not all stocks from the salt era were actually cured with salt. If yours is rust and pit free you’re good to go. If there’s pitting, then send it back for a refund. One caveat…..for the love of all that’s holy….if your screwdrivers came from a big box home improvement center DO NOT mess with the stock. Have a gunsmith do it for you.

As far as the extractor goes, the CRF version is preferable. That said, I’ve never seen a HiPower Safari, Medallion or Olympian in a major caliber that was a push feed. I guess they did make them, as you’ve indicated. Just surprised.

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That is a great idea having a blacksmith remove the stock and check it out during my inspection period. That is exactly what I will do.

MooseHunter said:

My understanding of the Browning High Power line is the ones from O6 based cases through the magnums had FN actions. The Browning High Powers with 308 length cases were Sako actions with a round top. Definitely push feed. I have one in 30 06 but not fancy level but pre salt wood and one in 308 that was salt wood gun. Someone saved it before I got it and put in a beautifully figured piece of wood. There are a few minor pits on underside of action but nothing that would affect the integrity of the gun. Proof in fact that the research on the serial # was correct.

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The early short action in 243 and 308 were built on the small ring mauser. The Sakos actions came a bit later.

pjaln said:

the later models I believe are made in Japan and a totally different rifle .you want the Belgium made mauser it is the best deal on the used gun market and in line with pre 64 Winchesters ,stay away from the push feed brownings bbr,s

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Not sure what your objection to the bbr is. I have several and they are accurate well functioning rifles.

375er said:

Not sure what your objection to the bbr is. I have several and they are accurate well functioning rifles.

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I am hearing the same. I think this is what is going on - if you have the short extractor and you "short stroke" the bolt (not pull it back ALL THE WAY until you slam it back forward) - that 2nd round wont load. The fear is that when a buff is charging you and your adrenaline is up 2000% percent, you may very well short stroke that bolt leading to a disaster. But for very large North American game, where we are not under such pressure to get that 2nd round off - its not as big of a deal. I think, because of that - at least amongst the African safari crowd - the short extractor has gotten a bad rap. But for what I plan on using it for - it really doesn't matter.

Just a comment: The United States Military hunts the most dangerous game on earth with a push feed short extractor e.g. M40, M24, AR-15 etc…..

is that most dangerous game a divorced woman with 2 or 3 sub-teenagers?

Beautiful rifles. I haven't fired one since yesterday.

A few years back I inherited a 1967 Browning Safari Rifle in .375 H&H that does not appear to be a salt gun. It likes both TSX and A-frames, with both shooting around 1 MOA.

If you want to buy that one, just pop it out of the stock and take a look. It's quick & easy. If there's no visible rust, you're probably good to go.



The action on mine is INCREDIBLY smooth and it feeds those long tapered cases like a dream. I suspect someone gave it some TLC at some point in its life, as others I've handled weren't quite so nice. As for short-stroking the action, this can happen with any long action rifle, push feed or CRF. The more you shoot and hunt with short-action rifles, the more likely this is to happen. I did it while following up on a kudu a few years ago. It was a nasty surprise, but fortunately he was very sick and I had time to figure it out. That was with a borrowed Sako in .375 H&H.

When I shoot anything .375 and up, I now make it a habit to absolutely, positively eject that case as smartly as possible. Those of us with reloading habits sometimes don't want to go hunting for brass. Dumb. I also caught myself looking for the empties after I shot a cape buffalo once. Dumb, dumb, dumb, dumb......

In a heated moment during a recent lion hunt, I was pleased to note my empties were nowhere to be found when the excitement was over, so hopefully I've cured that little problem.

migrabill said:

I am hearing the same. I think this is what is going on - if you have the short extractor and you "short stroke" the bolt (not pull it back ALL THE WAY until you slam it back forward) - that 2nd round wont load. The fear is that when a buff is charging you and your adrenaline is up 2000% percent, you may very well short stroke that bolt leading to a disaster. But for very large North American game, where we are not under such pressure to get that 2nd round off - its not as big of a deal. I think, because of that - at least amongst the African safari crowd - the short extractor has gotten a bad rap. But for what I plan on using it for - it really doesn't matter.

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You can short stroke any action. Nothing is fool proof.

'68boy said:

is that most dangerous game a divorced woman with 2 or 3 sub-teenagers?

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Very dangerous species! I was attacked in close quarters by one of these armed with a kitchen knife!!

On later post-1972 Belgium Hi-Powers (or very late '72), I've had zero salt issues after pulling the barreled actions for inspection. Check any candidate by removing the stock or at least looking closely at the tang/receiver areas for pitting or white residue. A good gunsmith can confirm. Plenty of clean post-salt examples exist and hold up beautifully with normal care.