What tricks to put on light weight 416 rem mag to help reduce recoil

I bought a Weatherby mark v that was a 257 weatherby in a McMillian fiberglass stock that was converted to 416 rem mag .The person that had ot made asked Weatherby about changing it to 416 rem mag .I do wish it was stainless widh though to make it even better .I have had a bunch of 416 rem mags model 70 win rem 700 and sako .My shoulder is not what it use to be .I think the recoil pad is just a decelorator and glued or screwed on I want the best recoil pad and best muzzlebrake but not the tank kind I hate them.I don't think you can put a mercury recoil reducer in this stock .I have a torn rotator on my right shoulder so it ain't what it use to be .I want to see what's the best to put on this rifle .I also want glow open sites just in case .This is my last 416 I have had 7 still have 4 of them awesome guns .I tried to get a ec tuner made into. 416 but they want make one .unless they make 1000 of them.

Toss the stock and order a Boyd's laminate. You need the weight. It's more important than any accuracy advantage the McMillan stock might provide. 416 Rem Mag is not a thousand yard tack driver. Boyd's will install recoil crossbolts. Stay with Decelerator. Limbsaver are too soft for a heavy recoil magnum like that. With recoil pads there is a point of diminishing returns. If the pad is too soft, it collapses too fast and recoil is not "drawn out" i.e. reducing felt recoil.

I shoot a .416 Hoffman, which is nearly identical to the Remington cartridge. My .416 weighs 9.2 lbs and recoil is very manageable due to having a Brown Precision fiberglass Stock that fits me well, combined with a Pachmayr Decellerator recoil pad. A Brown stock absorbs recoil as it flexes which helps reduce felt recoil. I don’t think you need a heavier gun, just a better stock. You’ll be surprised at the noticeable difference it makes.

Have you considered a mercury tube?

Ontario Hunter said:

Toss the stock and order a Boyd's laminate. You need the weight. It's more important than any accuracy advantage the McMillan stock might provide. 416 Rem Mag is not a thousand yard tack driver. Boyd's will install recoil crossbolts. Stay with Decelerator. Limbsaver are too soft for a heavy recoil magnum like that. With recoil pads there is a point of diminishing returns. If the pad is too soft, it collapses too fast and recoil is not "drawn out" i.e. reducing felt recoil.

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Ontario good idea….I would think if the Boyds laminated stock is properly bedded it will be accurate and I “believe” a mercury recoil suppressor can also be added into it —- the combination of the added weight and mercury suppressor should tame recoil more then a muzzle brake…..which i guess could also be added

Have you considered a supressor?
Reduces the recoil and reduces the muzzle blast.

I would go with a Bell Carlson and have them install a Mercury reducer. I changed out my CZ458 Lott to the BC with Mercury and recoil is way less than it was. It actually is very pleasant to shoot from the bench

86thecat said:

Have you considered a supressor?
Reduces the recoil and reduces the muzzle blast.

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86thecat: all true and know many like the function of them — I can’t get past the UGLY “look” of having a CAN on the end of my barrel and adding 6”-10” in length….but thats because I have an aversion to some NEW things - that were never needed in the past 100 years…..even though some are actually an improvement and help out in certain situations. It’s a stubbornness on my part that seems to get worse with age but “occasionally“ I might have a point !

86thecat said:

Have you considered a supressor?
Reduces the recoil and reduces the muzzle blast.

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He says he won't have a can on his guns. Can't say as I blame him. But I don't have shoulder issues and the range is usually empty when I'm there so noise and recoil are not an issue.

HankBuck said:

Ontario good idea….I would think if the Boyds laminated stock is properly bedded it will be accurate and I “believe” a mercury recoil suppressor can also be added into it —- the combination of the added weight and mercury suppressor should tame recoil more then a muzzle brake…..which i guess could also be added

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Boyd's laminate by itself would be sufficient weight. Adding the mercury gizmo would put it way over the top.
Then he would need a gunbearer with a forklift operator's license.

Something to consider: shipping mercury is not legal in some jurisdictions. Also adding that much weight to the end of a stock, especially a synthetic stock, is bound to alter the balance considerably. An out of balance rifle is not fun to carry in hand and they don't hold on target as well.

Ontario Hunter said:

Something to consider: shipping mercury is not legal in some jurisdictions. Also adding that much weight to the end of a stock, especially a synthetic stock, is bound to alter the balance considerably. An out of balance rifle is not fun to carry in hand and they don't hold on target as well.

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Adding mercury balanced my rifles since most of the weight sits in the barrel.

Honestly, I just do not understand this modern fad for lightweight guns, especially waterfowl magnum shotguns and dangerous game rifles. Very few duck/goose hunters do anything but drive to their spot and throw out decoys. The gun is only carried from the vehicle to the blind. A 3.5" magnum in synthetic camo weighing seven pounds will shake loose eyeballs. And they're also whippy to point at moving targets. Just does not make sense. A DGR hunter seldom needs to be concerned much with floating on moving targets (hopefully), but he may need to be concerned about quick followup shots. Muzzle jump into the Milky Way is not helpful. Thankfully, most DG rifles are designer guns and the current fashion is NOT synthetic stocks. The exception might be North American bear guns that seem to be drawn to stainless, synthetic, and short barrels almost exclusively.

I'm 71 years old and I can still carry a ten pound gun all day. And I'm no Hulk Hogan either. I lose on average at least ten pounds every hunting season. Most guys I know who think they must have a lightweight rifle or shotgun are smokers and/or carrying a spare tire in their shirt. Toss the smokes and use the money saved to buy a big boy gun. Then put some miles on your boots carrying it. Get good and sweaty. Your grandkids will thank you down the road when you're still around to show them how to hunt.

dgr416 said:

I bought a Weatherby mark v that was a 257 weatherby in a McMillian fiberglass stock that was converted to 416 rem mag .The person that had ot made asked Weatherby about changing it to 416 rem mag .I do wish it was stainless widh though to make it even better .I have had a bunch of 416 rem mags model 70 win rem 700 and sako .My shoulder is not what it use to be .I think the recoil pad is just a decelorator and glued or screwed on I want the best recoil pad and best muzzlebrake but not the tank kind I hate them.I don't think you can put a mercury recoil reducer in this stock .I have a torn rotator on my right shoulder so it ain't what it use to be .I want to see what's the best to put on this rifle .I also want glow open sites just in case .This is my last 416 I have had 7 still have 4 of them awesome guns .I tried to get a ec tuner made into. 416 but they want make one .unless they make 1000 of them.

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I've spent a lot of time and effort getting very small people ready to hunt really big game using large calibers. In order, these are the things I do:

#1 - All things being otherwise equal, the gun powder that achieves a given velocity with the fewest grains will have the least recoil. Yep, changing the powder can reduce 25% of the recoil.

#2 - Always use the lowest rings you possible can, ideally Low or Extra Low. Recoil is more intense with your face halfway off the stock.

#3 - You can add weight to the rifle, within reason.


Following the examples above, my 10 year old's 375HH started with 41lbs of recoil and he was hunting with it in Africa at 26lbs of recoil.

rookhawk said:

I've spent a lot of time and effort getting very small people ready to hunt really big game using large calibers. In order, these are the things I do:

#1 - All things being otherwise equal, the gun powder that achieves a given velocity with the fewest grains will have the least recoil. Yep, changing the powder can reduce 25% of the recoil.

#2 - Always use the lowest rings you possible can, ideally Low or Extra Low. Recoil is more intense with your face halfway off the stock.

#3 - You can add weight to the rifle, within reason.


Following the examples above, my 10 year old's 375HH started with 41lbs of recoil and he was hunting with it in Africa at 26lbs of recoil.

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All very good advice that is very often overlooked. And when choosing rings, always look at the manufacturer's specs. Medium rings for one company may be the same height as another maker's low rings.

Last year I was trying out some 307 gr bullets for my 404 Jeffery. The only loading data I could find was for 300 gr bullets and required IMR 4895. I started at minimum and even then noticed the recoil was significantly more than 400 gr bullets loaded with Accurate 4350. The 307 gr loads wouldn't group anyway so I gave up after half a dozen rounds, pulled the bullets, and put the powder back in the bottle.

dgr416 said:

I bought a Weatherby mark v that was a 257 weatherby in a McMillian fiberglass stock that was converted to 416 rem mag .The person that had ot made asked Weatherby about changing it to 416 rem mag .I do wish it was stainless widh though to make it even better .I have had a bunch of 416 rem mags model 70 win rem 700 and sako .My shoulder is not what it use to be .I think the recoil pad is just a decelorator and glued or screwed on I want the best recoil pad and best muzzlebrake but not the tank kind I hate them.I don't think you can put a mercury recoil reducer in this stock .I have a torn rotator on my right shoulder so it ain't what it use to be .I want to see what's the best to put on this rifle .I also want glow open sites just in case .This is my last 416 I have had 7 still have 4 of them awesome guns .I tried to get a ec tuner made into. 416 but they want make one .unless they make 1000 of them.

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Put a small supressor

Ontario Hunter said:

Honestly, I just do not understand this modern fad for lightweight guns, especially waterfowl magnum shotguns and dangerous game rifles. Very few duck/goose hunters do anything but drive to their spot and throw out decoys. The gun is only carried from the vehicle to the blind. A 3.5" magnum in synthetic camo weighing seven pounds will shake loose eyeballs. And they're also whippy to point at moving targets. Just does not make sense. A DGR hunter seldom needs to be concerned much with floating on moving targets (hopefully), but he may need to be concerned about quick followup shots. Muzzle jump into the Milky Way is not helpful. Thankfully, most DG rifles are designer guns and the current fashion is NOT synthetic stocks. The exception might be North American bear guns that seem to be drawn to stainless, synthetic, and short barrels almost exclusively.

I'm 71 years old and I can still carry a ten pound gun all day. And I'm no Hulk Hogan either. I lose on average at least ten pounds every hunting season. Most guys I know who think they must have a lightweight rifle or shotgun are smokers and/or carrying a spare tire in their shirt. Toss the smokes and use the money saved to buy a big boy gun. Then put some miles on your boots carrying it. Get good and sweaty. Your grandkids will thank you down the road when you're still around to show them how to hunt.

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Completely agree with you on shotguns. My DGR rifles weigh between seven+ and fourteen pounds. I am in relatively good shape, but until last year have subscribed to the no-sling carry on safari. You know, you will get tangled on the sticks at the moment of truth. . . . Well, never again. 12 pounds without a sling for something like 17 miles is a beat down. I would have given my left (.404 Jeffery) for my seven pound rifle (or a sling). I will bring a sling from now on--no matter rifle weight--and remove for final approach.

Back to the OP, I think the McMillan stocks are fine. You can add recoil reducers to most quality synthetic stocks. And as Rookhawk stated, load appropriately. Many guys in excellent shape prefer light-weight rifles. They are not just for sheep hunting at elevation. In fact, I don't know many heavy guys that are worried about the weight of their rifles. Completely get the RTC problems. I dislocated my left shoulder last safari as everything is shot (labrum, infraspinatus, supraspinatus etc). Thankfully I am right handed.

This is all good advice. I don't shoot the 416's much, but need all of the recoil help I can get.

A 416 is the sort of rifle that you have the potential to carry A LOT, but shoot very little (walking down an elephant or a buffalo for days/miles, etc)... I think finding the balance between weight and recoil reduction is super important..

while you dont want to develop a flinch or other bad habits associated with high recoiling rifles, you also dont want to wear yourself out carrying an overweight boomstick over miles and miles of rough terrain only to find yourself smoked when its time to get on the sticks and make a precise shot under stress and with limited time available..

For me, the first thing I do when I get a shoulder bruiser is to evaluate the recoil pad... Ive found a few different options that work well for me.. the NECG magnum pads (1.5") help a good bit as do decellerators.. Ive also found that kick-eez magnum pads are excellent in reducing recoil (perhaps the best?).. the downside to kick-eez is they can get "sticky" and tend to wear out faster than the NECG or decellerator options.... FWIW my 416 wears a magnum Kick-eez though...

If a good recoil pad isnt enough, I look at adding weight to the stock.. specifically for my 416, it was a little butt heavy when I got it.. so I cut a thin channel in the forearm, added a few ounces (I think it ended up being 6 oz when I finally got the balance right?) of steel ball bearings to the channel, and then glass bedded over the top of them to seal them in place.. between adding a few ounces to the overall weight of the rifle (not enough to make it a heavyweight, but enough to feel a difference in recoil and also get better balance out of it) and adding the better recoil pad, I was able to get my 416 under control with even the heaviest loads...

Shooting mid velocity 400gr loads out of it honestly doesnt feel much different than shooting 300gr loads out of my 375.. theres a little bit of a difference.. but not enough to really care or notice unless youre looking for it..

dgr416,

You didn’t mention actual weight of your rifle and its components. Specifically the 2 main determinants of weight and balance are weight of the barrel (what’s the weight of the barreled action?) and of the stock. Wood is denser and heavier than most synthetics. However, weight can easily be added to the buttstock. in a synthetic it’s straightforward by removing the recoil pad, opening the foam fill and sealing the newly added weight with new foam, in wood probably drilling hole(s).

Assuming proper barrel diameter, then adding weight to the buttstock - I use round 1/2” lead (12” length = 1 lb) and if necessary round bar tungsten carbide - denser than lead, 1/2” diameter @ 8” ~ 20 oz) but more expensive - will both balance the rifle and markedly mitigate recoil.

I have a wood stocked DGR 404 Jeffery I load to 2500 FPS MV with a 400 grain solids, which produces recoil similar to the mid-range of your 416 Wby‘s ballistics. This DGR weighs 9 lbs 15 oz unloaded with iron sights, 11 lbs 3 oz with a scope. No need to add weight for recoil = 68 lbs-ft w/o scope and 60 lbs-ft with scope. I believe that level of recoil is easy to control for a hunter experienced with heavy medium DGRs. BTW adding 5 cartridges increases weight about 8-10 oz, so I wouldn’t overlook this option, whether all fit in magazine + chamber or some in a buttstock ammo holder, despite its aesthetic detriment.

I am not a fan of muzzle brakes on DGRs, fired at close quarters at game with PH and probably tracker(s) nearby and probably involving multiple shots and moving muzzle direction for follow ups. Adding barrel length with suppressors on rifles often carried and fired in thick brush is a detriment IMHO.