Edit - Ha! I did not notice how old this thread was, but to continue the discussion with
@bruce moulds.
The Sako (factory bedded with a forend pressure point), was re-bedded 1st with and then without the factory pressure point. Over several steps in my case. Groups opened up after removing the factory pressure point. Groups went back to ~ MOAi when I put it back. Cold bore shot (usually ~ 1 TO 1.5 MOA low) was eliminated.
The Tikka T3X Hunter barrel was factory free floated and did not require a forearm pressure point. Shoots great with the action and recoil lug (only) bedded.
On the CZ 550 w/ new B&C stock, the 1st bedding job was just the recoil lug plus a little at the front and rear action screws. More at the front screw, less at the rear. Slightly better, but not much joy as to group size.
Since the rifle shot decently, even with the factory wood stock making contact with the barrel, I added a forend pressure point on the second go-round. I did not know this was a no- no.
It now shoots sub MOA (three shot groups) with the first two just about touching. Probably almost as good as I can hold it. (I'm about a half MOA shooter.) Not saying a professional couldn't do better, but I enjoy doing things myself, when I can.
Second outing after the modified bedding job. Cold (dirty) bore at 219, first two shots essentially touching.
Last three shots of the day with the 9.3x62 (below pic), 325 yards - 3 of 3 did 2 3/4". 0.81 MOA. First two just about touching. I'm beyond happy and would recommend the Gunblue490 bedding videos to anyone wanting to try their hand. There is a part one and a part two. He is very thorough.
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