What to do with a 1917

[skydiver386]

https://criterionbarrels.com/product-category/vintage-service/m1917-enfield/

Out of stock, but many companies make pre fit barrels that are a fairly easy swap for a home gunsmith.

The old barrel is easy to get off. Somewhat like @Ontario Hunter stated in his post, but instead cut a small ring around the old barrel about 1/8 inch forward of its joint with the receiver. Don't make the cut in the receiver, as that's the part you want to save, but cut the barrel as your going to toss it in the trash anyway.

All you need to do is use a hacksaw to cut a groove in the barrel maybe 1/4" deep just forward of where it's screwed into the receiver. When these guns were originally built, they often heated the receiver slightly to get it to expand, and then refrigerated the barrels to get them to shrink slightly. When they were screwed together and reached room temperature, they became almost impossible to take apart. Cutting that little groove relieves the stress between the two parts and makes them a lot easier to remove the barrel.

There are plenty of videos and articles showing how to do this. I can show you the entire process if you want to do it yourself with basic hand tools.

 

[FlyGuy]

Keep it it British old chap!
My first choice would be to build a 300H&H on that action.
Otherwise, any fine old British cartridge will do.

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

https://criterionbarrels.com/product-category/vintage-service/m1917-enfield/

Out of stock, but many companies make pre fit barrels that are a fairly easy swap for a home gunsmith.

The old barrel is easy to get off. Somewhat like @Ontario Hunter stated in his post, but instead cut a small ring around the old barrel about 1/8 inch forward of its joint with the receiver. Don't make the cut in the receiver, as that's the part you want to save, but cut the barrel as your going to toss it in the trash anyway.

All you need to do is use a hacksaw to cut a groove in the barrel maybe 1/4" deep just forward of where it's screwed into the receiver. When these guns were originally built, they often heated the receiver slightly to get it to expand, and then refrigerated the barrels to get them to shrink slightly. When they were screwed together and reached room temperature, they became almost impossible to take apart. Cutting that little groove relieves the stress between the two parts and makes them a lot easier to remove the barrel.

There are plenty of videos and articles showing how to do this. I can show you the entire process if you want to do it yourself with basic hand tools.

@skydiver386
They never heated the action even slightly to put the barrel in.
The barrels were screwed in using a hydraulics and some were over tightened. A hacksaw cut between the barrel and receiver allivates this pressure and then the unscrew easily. Failure to do this can result a cracked receiver.
Bob

 

[skydiver386]

@skydiver386
They never heated the action even slightly to put the barrel in.
The barrels were screwed in using a hydraulics and some were over tightened. A hacksaw cut between the barrel and receiver allivates this pressure and then the unscrew easily. Failure to do this can result a cracked receiver.
Bob

Well true, kinda sorta.

There are documents that detail the assembly procedures used at all 3 plants that made 1917 rifles. It was noted as early as 1918 that there were cracked receivers from Winchester, Remington and Eddystone, but the Eddystone were far and away the most common. The fact that Eddystone manufactured more rifles than Winchester and Remington combined may have been a factor in this equation.


Although I can't find it immediately, I have seen several documents that detail the process of assembly, and one stated that there was such a process used, but only on the early serial # rifles from Eddystone. The majority of the problem is the hydraulic tools used to speed up assembly as you stated in your post, and this was an issue with all 3 manufacturers throughout production.

Unfortunately these Eddystone rifles got a bad rap, but were perfectly serviceable for the most part, as long as the individual disassembling it didn't put to much stress on the receiver. If our OP takes it easy on the receiver, and has it magnafluxed for cracks afterword, he's going to have a fine rifle.

 

[csmiffy]

If going belted case, find a P14 303 bolt. Don't need to touch the boltface,
And I second a 300HH. If i ever get my shit together with all my bits, I could do one, Mind you, brass and ammo look like it is near unobtainable in the US. It will be even worse here, and I would still have to buy a reamer.

 

[BlueFlyer]

I have 2 Enfields. The M17 is in 280AI and is the most accurate hunting rifle I have. The P14 is in 9.3X64 Brenneke. Both have Numrich Arms cock on openning conversions and Timney trigers. I staightened the bolt handles and fitted hinged floor plates. The rear bridge needs a bit of work to get it looking OK. I did more work on the P14 than the M17, but both are far mor elegant than the original.
The safety is one of the best there is. I find it far easier to use than any M70 3 position.

M17 in 280AI

P14 in 9.3X64Br

The rear bridge

 

[grand veneur]

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

Custom made mount for my M17 35 Whelen AI
Bob
@grand veneur