Sako 85 Scope Mounts

[Gomer]

I found a lightly used Sako Finnlite for $750 and I just couldn’t resist. I am looking at scope mount options and the Optiloks are an obvious choice, but I am a big fan of Talley steel bases and rings. However, it looks like they use set screws from the top that will probably scratch the action. Anyone have experience with these? Anything else you’d recommend? Why can’t Sako be normal?

The hammer-in bases are a no-go for me. I can’t imagine those staying put.

 

[TOBY458]

I use Optilock and have never had an issue. I looked into the Talleys as well, and didn’t like the idea of the set screws either. I read where someone recommended replacing the steel set screws with brass screws, so they wouldn’t hurt the finish of the rifle. Either way, it doesn’t seem like a great way to secure the bases to the rifle. I agree that Sako needs a better way to mount optics. Even the Sako 90 uses Tikka style rings, and those aren’t exactly optimal in my book either. I do like the rifles they build with the piccatinny slots milled into the receiver, but those are only available on certain models. And none of those are bigger calibers.

 

[cmk]

I found a lightly used Sako Finnlite for $750 and I just couldn’t resist. I am looking at scope mount options and the Optiloks are an obvious choice, but I am a big fan of Talley steel bases and rings. However, it looks like they use set screws from the top that will probably scratch the action. Anyone have experience with these? Anything else you’d recommend? Why can’t Sako be normal?

The hammer-in bases are a no-go for me. I can’t imagine those staying put.

I have 4 Sakos in different chamberings - all with the tapered dovetail - and have used a number of different scope mounts over the years (Optilock ringmounts, Optilock w separate bases + rings, Leupold ringmounts, Leupold QR bases + rings, Original Sako steel ringmounts, Warne ringmounts, Warne QR ringmounts, MAK one-piece mount for Aimpoint Micro and even some crummy Weaver/Picatinny bases in aluminium - and probably some more I can't remember right now).

Apart from the Weaver bases, everything has worked fine for me, though I've heard about mixed experiences from others regarding the Leupold QR bases.

Optilock is probably the best from most perspectives, as the plastic/polymer ring protects the tube from being damaged. And it allows for the scope being mounted with a minimum of tension. The downside is that all the Optilock models are quite high. Even with the lowest possible option (the ringmounts) they can still accomodate a 42mm objective bell with ease, maybe up to 50mm. That is a bit wasteful if you have a DG, or driven hunt, type of scope (e.g. a 30 mm straight tube).

And don't worry about the bases coming loose. Recoil energy will work the opposite way, essentially 'hammering' them even tighter.

 

[Gomer]

I have 4 Sakos in different chamberings - all with the tapered dovetail - and have used a number of different scope mounts over the years (Optilock ringmounts, Optilock w separate bases + rings, Leupold ringmounts, Leupold QR bases + rings, Original Sako steel ringmounts, Warne ringmounts, Warne QR ringmounts, MAK one-piece mount for Aimpoint Micro and even some crummy Weaver/Picatinny bases in aluminium - and probably some more I can't remember right now).

Apart from the Weaver bases, everything has worked fine for me, though I've heard about mixed experiences from others regarding the Leupold QR bases.

Optilock is probably the best from most perspectives, as the plastic/polymer ring protects the tube from being damaged. And it allows for the scope being mounted with a minimum of tension. The downside is that all the Optilock models are quite high. Even with the lowest possible option (the ringmounts) they can still accomodate a 42mm objective bell with ease, maybe up to 50mm. That is a bit wasteful if you have a DG, or driven hunt, type of scope (e.g. a 30 mm straight tube).

And don't worry about the bases coming loose. Recoil energy will work the opposite way, essentially 'hammering' them even tighter.

I’m considering having the receiver tapped for those screws that come with the Talley bases. I’m paranoid!

 

[cmk]

I’m considering having the receiver tapped for those screws that come with the Talley bases. I’m paranoid!

Don't think that you need to, but I have no personal experience with Talley mounts. If it makes you feel more confident in the setup, then by all means go ahead. It's a tool (but a nice one), not a vintage antique heirloom.

 

[wesheltonj]

Get the Optilock, cry once. Don't tap a SAKO 85. If you don't like the bases and rings, they made a ring mount. Hard to come by, but they are out there.

 

[Tintin]

I have a set of these on a Sako 85.

https://www.leupold.com/qr-sako-2-pc-matte

Been happy with them.

Sadly discontinued now - but you may be able to track some down - but probably not cheaper than Optilocks.

 

[NIGHTHAWK]

I found a lightly used Sako Finnlite for $750 and I just couldn’t resist. I am looking at scope mount options and the Optiloks are an obvious choice, but I am a big fan of Talley steel bases and rings. However, it looks like they use set screws from the top that will probably scratch the action. Anyone have experience with these? Anything else you’d recommend? Why can’t Sako be normal?

The hammer-in bases are a no-go for me. I can’t imagine those staying put.

If you already have a scope, and the Optiloks allow for the correct spacing for that scope you’ll be fine. Some scope mounting tolerances are too narrow for the spacing allowed with Optilok. The spacing is where the tube diameter meets the bell on the front end and the power ring/magnification adjustment on the other. The rings may be too far apart once mounted on your rifle. My Nightforce scope had this problem with my SAKO 85L .375H&H So I had to use a pic rail.

Using Pic rail hasn’t been a problem for me, but could be for others. I’ve killed enough with mine to know it’s not an issue, but it is slightly annoying. I don’t use or need a cheek riser.

• Added Height: The rail sits on top of the receiver, adding 0.2 to 0.4 inches of height before you even install scope rings.
• Head Elevation: This extra height forces you to lift your head higher off the stock to look through the center of the optic.
• Loss of Cheek Weld: Instead of a solid cheek weld against the stock, you may end up with a weaker "jaw weld," which may hurt accuracy and consistency.
  -Add a Cheek Riser: Install adjustable cheek pad to raise the stock height to meet your new eye line. -Maintain Scope Level: Ensure your eye looks straight through the center of the glass to prevent parallax errors and shadow around the edges.

 

[Gomer]

If you already have a scope, and the Optiloks allow for the correct spacing for that scope you’ll be fine. Some scope mounting tolerances are too narrow for the spacing allowed with Optilok. The spacing is where the tube diameter meets the bell on the front end and the power ring/magnification adjustment on the other. The rings may be too far apart once mounted on your rifle. My Nightforce scope had this problem with my SAKO 85L .375H&H So I had to use a pic rail.

Using Pic rail hasn’t been a problem for me, but could be for others. I’ve killed enough with mine to know it’s not an issue, but it is slightly annoying. I don’t use or need a cheek riser.

• Added Height: The rail sits on top of the receiver, adding 0.2 to 0.4 inches of height before you even install scope rings.
• Head Elevation: This extra height forces you to lift your head higher off the stock to look through the center of the optic.
• Loss of Cheek Weld: Instead of a solid cheek weld against the stock, you may end up with a weaker "jaw weld," which may hurt accuracy and consistency.
  -Add a Cheek Riser: Install adjustable cheek pad to raise the stock height to meet your new eye line. -Maintain Scope Level: Ensure your eye looks straight through the center of the glass to prevent parallax errors and shadow around the edges.

View attachment 783623

This is a short action, so I hope that helps. I will likely mount a Trijicon Accupoint, which doesn’t have the greatest tube length given the overall length.

 

[R eight]

Go with the Optilock. They are bulletproof, quick detachable and near enough return to zero.