Old Hornaday 338 interlocks

curt672

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I have 2 box's of 200 gr Hornaday Interlock bullets. I know they are old as they say $6.95 for a box of 100 . Does anyone know if they have changed the design of these over the years? I also see that the 200s are not made now. I am thinking of loading them up for some plains game action --- thoughts????
 
Although they are not equivalent to bonded bullets, even the old interlocks are pretty sturdy bullets. I use interlocks (and cup and core)in my 30-06 on plainsgame although I would have to be really careful with shot angles on wildebeest upwards. With a 338, you are overgunned for most plainsgame anyway and I would use interlocks but maybe avoid the shoulder bones on eland.
 
Although they are not equivalent to bonded bullets, even the old interlocks are pretty sturdy bullets. I use interlocks (and cup and core)in my 30-06 on plainsgame although I would have to be really careful with shot angles on wildebeest upwards. With a 338, you are overgunned for most plainsgame anyway and I would use interlocks but maybe avoid the shoulder bones on eland.
I used 180 gr Accubond in my 338 for pains game last year and loved them - one shot one kill --
 
now don't get snippy on me I may just use them to punch paper:giggle:
 
Of all the superior hunting bullets available for a hunt that costs thousands or tens of thousands of dollars, why try to use a cheap cup and core bullet like the Interlock?

Because they work? I’ve killed a lot of animals in the US that weighed from 150lbs upwards to nearly 1000 lbs with Sierra GameKings, Hornady Interlocks, Speer BTSP and Grand Slams, and Nosler Ballistic Tips.
 
Use whatever you like! I discovered the design weaknesses of simple cup and core bullets in 1970 and decided to use the best, most reliable bullet for big game I could find since then. If you want occasional, spectacular results with massive tissue damage along with the commiserate meat loss, by all means use any number of the frangible, soft and cheap bullets out there. If you want a predictable, tough, penetrating bullet, the market has plenty of heavy jacketed bonded lead cores or partitions like the Nosler and Swift or several monolithics. BTW, one of the worst frangibles out there for unpredictable terminal performance on large is the Nosler Ballistic Tip.
 
Use whatever you like! I discovered the design weaknesses of simple cup and core bullets in 1970 and decided to use the best, most reliable bullet for big game I could find since then. If you want occasional, spectacular results with massive tissue damage along with the commiserate meat loss, by all means use any number of the frangible, soft and cheap bullets out there. If you want a predictable, tough, penetrating bullet, the market has plenty of heavy jacketed bonded lead cores or partitions like the Nosler and Swift or several monolithics. BTW, one of the worst frangibles out there for unpredictable terminal performance on large is the Nosler Ballistic Tip.

When is the last time you used a Ballistic Tip? You know the jacket is as thick as an accubond on the heavy-for-caliber weights in a given bore size, and select specially designed versions (like the 120gr 7mm and 95gr 6mm)?

I have no qualms with using a 180gr NBT on elk. It works fantastic. And exits.
 
I think it all comes down to personal experience -- I for one will never use a Partition again , I had to many of them come apart over the years -- but that's just me
 
I think it all comes down to personal experience -- I for one will never use a Partition again , I had to many of them come apart over the years -- but that's just me

I had 2 partitions (338) lose the lead from the ass end. All that was left was a 3/8” copper tube.
 
I would not "cheap out" on bullets for a safari. Losing or ruining a prized trophy animal that cost you thousands of dollars due to a bullet failure would be tragic.

Now a white tail deer or better yet some pigs, sure. But you might want to keep the velocity at lower levels to reduce the risk of the bullet exploding on impact with something hard.
 

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