NAMIBIA: On The Banks Of Chobe River

mark-hunter

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Namibia - Kalahari, Namibia - Khomas highland, Namibia - Caprivi
00 Hyppo.JPG



When I saw the three of them in the reeds, my legs turned to lead!
The voices around me became distant. “Leave the bino, leave the backpack, take only the rifle”. But I wasn’t listening, I was getting into the focus, with one thought only: I must not fail! And I have to get into the zone fast.
 
During my first safari on plains game, I heard the stories over a fire pit and bush telegraph, about the dangerous game of Africa. The stories of hunting, of tracking on blood spoor, of hunters killed by big game, of large bullets, and big-bore rifles. This was an African perspective I wasn’t thinking about earlier. This was the year 2017, and before going to my first safari I thought the first safari will be the last and sufficient memory for my entire life, only to move on to other hunting pastures.

But I was wrong. I returned to Africa. And returned again.

After the next safari on plains game in 2018, an idea to hunt dangerous game was ripe in my mind and soul, and a 375 H&H rifle was bought in 2021. Since that moment I was determined and focused, and started looking for a rifle, and then for a buffalo. It will take 3 years

WILD COUNTRY, WHERE IS IT?

I decided to hunt in a wild area. My very first buffalo will be the true wild buffalo from Dangerous Game Country. I was determined on this!

So, there was no rush. While I was collecting budget for this hunt, I was following deals and offers, and searching for options. Zimbabwe, Tanzania, Mozambique, Caprivi in Namibia, Zambia… In the same time, I was training with a rifle, on every occasion.

The first chance appeared in early 2022, in Zimbabwe, with one of the reputable outfitters. But the timing and my schedule did not align, and the search for buffalo continued during 2022 and 2023. The work schedule was difficult and prevented long-term planning.

Finally, in 2024, a window of opportunity opened for a buffalo hunt in Caprivi strip, Salambala conservancy on the far north-eastern tip of Namibia. It seemed that all things were in place, all the planets in the galaxy aligned, and I went for it!

On the day of travel for the buffalo hunt, I packed ZKK 602, in 375 H&H, vintage 1985, equipped with German swing mounts, and Swarovski 1.7-10x42, seasoned and tested in 2022 on Eland. And in a separate case, went the three boxes of Norma Swift A Frame, 300 grains.
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THE FIRST DAY
It took one day to travel. It cannot be shorter with all the international connections.
We flew with Ethiopian Airlines, with a usual visit to the cargo bay to check the rifles in Addis Ababa airport.
Good news awaited at Hosea Kutako International Airport: pre-arrival visa is no longer required, visa gets stamped on arrival, and the trip is simplified since the last safari in 2022. Within 2 hours of arrival, guns were checked, and we were at the farm Aurora. A group of 6 hunters who came with me will stay on the farm to collect their PG packages. Gregor and me will go to Caprivi
I had scope in carry-on luggage, and when installed, it kept its zero. We all had rifles checked at the range.
As per the plan by PH Christian trip to Caprivi will start the next day at 4 am, we will have 12 hours by car, and approximately 1000 kilometers to make. In the meantime, we had an extra day on the farm.
A day off gave me a day to adapt, warm up, and “ do something” (Guess what?).
Quickly, I improvised the plan to try getting jackal, baboon, or duiker till we pack for tomorrow and go. Small game I'm hunting with Bernard and Martin, the trackers.
We spent the whole day hunting until lunch break. There was everything to see except what I was looking for. Warthog, oryx, springbok, hartebeest, kudu ewes…. There were no baboons or jackals to be seen. We found three female duikers, but still nothing to shoot.

Lunch break followed, then back we went to the hunting ground.
A similar scenario dragged on during the afternoon until, suddenly, the tracker stopped. It was already late afternoon, and the shadows were getting longer.
Jackal!
Where?
There! Look at him! He's sitting!
I could see a spot in the middle of a sandy island surrounded by tall grass. Well blended with local environment. I couldn’t see him without a glass.
How far do you think it is?
“Maybe a hundred and fifty meters!”
“Maybe?” He looks too small for that distance!

I measured it through the Leica. I wanted to know where I am, and where he was.
209! Two hundred and nine meters!

He was sitting and looking in the opposite direction from us.
He didn’t see us. He was looking westward, like he was just admiring the sunset.
He’s really small and tiny, I think to myself.

I’ve never shot a 375 at this distance in the field.
And it’s not a match rifle.

But anyway, I'm going to try.
I put the magnification on the largest.
10x! But even with power 10x, he still looked very small.

I rested the rifle and aimed at the head. With the rifle zeroed at 100, the drop should lead the bullet where it needs to go.
No wind, silence. Everything was perfect except his size in distance.
Safety off.
Blam!

Tracker shouted, hit!
I looked through the scope on the rifle, and I couldn't see anything.
I looked again through the binoculars, and saw something lying on the sand. More like a patch on the ground.
I almost coldn't believe myself! He was down. (with buffalo gun at 209 meters!)
When we approached, I was surprised by how small he was.
It seemed to me he was smaller than our native fox.
A shot through the neck.

We gathered the jackal, and moved on, but the afternoon dragged on without any results.
The sun approached the horizon. And I was losing hope for the baboon, but Bernard said now is their time.

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Bernard stopped to visit his family at home on the farm and sort something out with them. From the hill where the house was, we could watch the baboons from about 800 meters away as they cautiously crossed the dusty road and approached the watering hole. Baboons! Finally!
They were cautious and in no hurry. They should usually be at the watering hole until dark, and then they would climb a nearby tallest tree for the night.
As the darkness fell, we moved to the embankment above the watering hole where the baboons need to cross.
The baboons came towards us one after another, but certainly they didn't rush. Sure, they took their time. Here and there, a single one crossed the embankment, and each one waited and paused, being wary and cautious, observing around.
The pack is at least 25 strong, as I counted while I was observing from the hill near Bernard's house.
We needed a male, the largest one.
But by now, darkness was falling faster and faster.
We set up above the embankment over the watering hole and watched the clearing on the top towards the water, through the local bushes.
Finally, Bernard said, the next one is yours. When it stands on the embankment, shoot!

But I couldn't see anything anymore!
At what should I shoot at, when is already total darkness?!
On the black embankment, with a black background, with a black bush, a grey baboon stopped. A black shadow of him, that is.
I couldn't see anything with my eyes, and on Swarovski, only a very dark silhouette, almost the same as the surroundings. Everything else was black on a black background
50 m.
And I missed!
Baboon lives another day!
Baboons, by now, are climbing fast on my priority list! It was now becoming personal!

Just in case, to double check, I put a flashlight from my backpack on the rifle, and a headlamp on my head. We checked everything, and there was no blood anywhere.
On the way back over the embankment, I found the place where I hit the ground on the clearing.
The baboon remained on my list for another time.

And tomorrow is another day.

Yes, tomorrow.
Tomorrow we leave at 4 am for Caprivi, and the "Nyati" project starts.

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THE TRIP
We hit the road at 04 am. Sharp. Trackers Martin, Tian (Tian: the camp trackers dean and mentor), Christian, Gregor and me. The trackers wore the best, cleanest, ironed clothes I have ever seen the trackers wear!
This was a special trip for them as well.
I was looking forward to this trip and sightseeing just as much as I looked forward to the buffalo hunt. So many things I heard and learned in theory about Caprivi, which is now rapidly becoming a reality. And there were so many unknowns and “ifs” along the way. Part of the trip will also be a visit to Vic Falls, but in case we do not collect two buffaloes in time, we will hunt till the last day possible, and keep Vic Falls for the next trip. But when? And what about if the hunt goes wrong, after the first shot? So, I was concerned and overwhelmed in my own thoughts, as we drove off to new frontiers unknown to me.

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After passing the veterinary corridor checkpoint, the local scenery changed. Wild animals, so common to see along the road in central Namibia, disappeared from roads. Where the hell are we going? There is not even a baboon on the road fence!
What we could see was an endless number of trucks in transit with Zambian copper exports via the Namibian port of Walvis Bay going in the opposite direction from us. There were not many buildings and settlements to see, but refueling was not a problem with frequent foreign company gas stations.
Along the way, we could see cattle herds escorted by women or local boys with a stick.
And all that dust in the air.

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We had a few refueling stops, the last one being in Katima Mulilo. After refreshment, we took off, and soon in late afternoon we were at a local gravel and then sandy road, leading to camp in Salambala conservancy.
By the time we arrived, the sun was still above the horizon, in late afternoon. Just after 4 pm. We were met by camp manager Felix, all camp staff, and a traditional welcome toast!
Day one was spent scouting. An in nearby forest we stumbled upon an elephant herd. My first encounter with wild elephants!
The day was short, and with a sunset, we retreated to the safety and coziness of the camp!

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Curious as to why you drove to the Caprivi as opposed to flying to Katima.
 
13.000 STEPS

If was day three of the hunt. Today I was more relaxed. My buffalo was in the salt. Today I am the cameraman, and Gregor is the hunter. Nowhere is it written I have to write in chronological order, so I will leave my buffalo story for later to follow in a flashback. We were a group of 7. Two of our trackers, our PH, two local game rangers and two hunters.

We started early and came to the banks of the Chobe River. Chobe is Botswana – Namibia border. In the dry season, the river is not too deep locally, but is still full of hyppos, and an occasional croc. The scenery across the river in Chobe park was all looking dry, no grass, rare trees and bush, and no leaves. On the Namibian side, all is green, and grass is plentiful. Two different worlds are divided by a river. It looks to me like the border of green pastures is the Chobe River. The game is crossing the river to access the food here. Why is it like that? I am not sure. It could be that on our side, there is some agriculture and crops, and the grass is frequently burned to allow fresh grass to grow. Maybe.
From afar, we could observe a group of about a dozen buffalo on Botswana side. The same ones we saw the day before. But they are reluctant to cross the river. One of them was extremely large in size and body mass. We approached the river, but could not find a single buffalo track. We passed few hyppos, which looked like amphibious vehicles in the water, to me. In the surrounding fields, there were plenty of zebra, roan, waterbuck.
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We passed at distance two elephants in tall reeds. The reeds were so tall, that from a distance, I could observe only the elephant's back. But buffalo was nowhere to be found. By the time the sun was in its zenith, we turned back and headed for lunch break at the camp, or at least we thought so.

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We passed the entire hunting area scouting and glassing without result, and were heading back to camp when one of our rangers got a call! Buffaloes were seen entering the woods just ahead of us!
We stopped near the forest, made a quick plan, and went into the bush leaving the car behind
The hunt was on!
Trackers and rangers spread around looking for tracks, leading our way, and we followed. My job was filming, but still with my rifle loaded and with a round chambered just in case. I hated mobile phone filming duty, as it kept my hands busy. But my plan was in case things get critical, the mobile phone (btw, not mine, in a comforting thought) to through away in the bush, while I bring the rifle up against the charging beast in fury!
It was my 4th safari, but also this was my third trip with my own tripod hunting stick, Jim Shokey Primos. The reason I drag my stick half the world away is that it has a telescopic function, and allows me to shoot from a kneeling or sitting position. Telecospic function on the average camp stick is either non-existent, or lost with fine red dust in moving parts and years of hard use. A detail I noticed on my first safari. Gregor is usually laughing at my ideas about the stick, like there is tall grass, nobody shoots sitting, everybody standing etc, but I stoically keep to my philosophy, till proven otherwise. Besides, there is a fact that I shot my Hartmann zebra, and black wildebeest from a sitting position in my previous safaris.
So, my rifle was slung on my right shoulder, my stick folded on my back hanging on the backpack, annoying mobile phone-turned camera in one hand, and like that I followed. I also hated being on the end of the column in a hunting party, but hey, often this is the hard life of a photographer. So, I pressed on, following the boys, having no idea what rangers and trackers were seeing ahead. I tried to be as quiet as possible
In time the legs became heavy, and the shirt sweat-soaked. Few times we lost track, but soon we found them again, and kept on.
Gregor carried a Ruger no 1 in 375 H&H. Scope Swaro 1.7-10x42 with rail, German claw mounts. The stock was made by the best stock-making gunsmith in the country, and the mounts were installed by the other one, known to be the best for steel work in the country. High-grade wood for stock was bought on some online auction, and the black forend tip was made of buffalo horn. (where he got the horn, I have no idea). I think he spent years preparing this rifle for this hunt, for his 50th birthday.
PH carried Merkel double in 416 Rigby.

We came across the trail more and more often, and there was more and more dung as we pressed on. The dung was fresher and fresher. The trackers would take it in their hands, or poke with a stick crush it, to assess the freshness of the “trails” and estimate how many buffalo are ahead of us. Hunting on the trail is a mixture of fast walking, occasional stops and wind assessments, and a slow run. When the trail is lost, the scouts and trackers quickly find it.
At one point, the trackers and scouts spread out from the column, came back, moved into a line, and began to walk more cautiously. Seeing the trackers that moment, I was sure that the buffalo was close by and dead, only the buffalo did not know it yet.
It was just a question of how much longer we would walk. My optimism suddenly grew, and I forgot about tired legs and sweat-soaked shirt!

It did not last long now. The team stopped. I watched everything from the back of the column. But the situation was clear to me. As we stopped in the bushes, I managed to see some movement of the dark masses, or occasional flick of the tail. The facial expressions of the trackers, Gregor and Christian, was clear of what they plan, for me from a bit of an angle from the back. With a little adjustment, they took up positions. If I could saw a movement in the bush, the buffalo could see my movement as well.

So, I was still and tried to control my movements to a minimum
I kneeled down, not daring to breathe. I kept filming. Duty first. I would prefer to have my rifle in hand, ready for backup, but my job was to film, and I struggled hard with the discipline.
Gregor moved again and repositioned himself a little more,
I felt like I could cut the silence and tension with a knife.
This went on for 15 or 20 minutes. At last, Gregor raised his rifle, but there was no shooting.
He was probably looking for a hole in the bushes and clear view to a vital zone.
I was tense. I screamed to myself, "Let's get it over with!"
Suddenly, the sound of hooves is heard, which disappeared into the distance. And with silence a cloud of dust slowly rose above the bushes.
I got up. What happened?
They sensed us. They moved in two groups. Each group to its side.
A bust!

After a quick discussion in whispering tones, we followed the right-headed group of buffalo.
Sneaking along the trail turned into a light jog. The trackers knew where they were going. I think they could see them through the bushes in fast pace on a glimpse. But it's all very hard to tell from the end of the column and my perspective.
At one point, on the clearing ahead of us, the buffalo ran out and cut right back into the bushes. We were running after them, very close behind. Then followed several of them crossing. I saw one very big buffalo whole with its head held high.
We followed them at a pace from a brisk walk to a light jog. My heart rate jumped, panting, running, and I could see that I was falling behind. Sweat soaked my shirt in streams.
Finally, we switched from running to walking and stopped, between the bushes in a smaller clearing. We found them. The buffalo stopped.
13,000 steps!

In total, we took 13,000 steps through the forest, about 9 kilometers.

The trackers took positions and kneeled, pointing with their fingers. The hunters kneeled. And I sat. I know what they're pointing at, although I coulnt't see the buffalo. Based on the team positioning, bush surroundings, and visible angles from my standpoint, the buffalo was at about 50 meters to my right. I had a feeling, he just needed to make one step sideways to get into my view. But he was there! That was the most important!

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Everyone sat down, and I still I couln't see him.
Gregor raised his rifle.
But he gave up. Rifle down.
Everyone shifted around a bit, adjusted, and sat down again.
The whole team now has sat down, or knelt down, and I sat down too, so I can film them from a horizontal perspective.
Gregor aimed with his rifle, and I expected a shot.

Click!
He locked the rifle, safety on, moved the arse again.
I still knew exactly where the buffalo was, it was just I coldn't see him in the bush, but according to our the agreement, the priority is hunting, not filming, and that's why I don't dare to make a fuss, or move to the left, so as not to scare the buffalo, just to make better footage. So, I stayed put and didn’t move at all, just with mobile in my hand.
Aha! Now they needed stick. I knew it! I quietly passed the stick to Christian, and Christian passed to Gregor. My stick!
They had time to set up the stick.

I know why I'm dragging it around the world on the plane. And now Gregor knows.
The legs on the stick are folded in, and the stick is set up for shooting from a Gregors low sitting position.
They repositioned again a bit. PH and him.. Again. They moved the rifle, they moved the stick. It's all half a meter, left or right, here or there.
I assume it's thick bushes. The bushes are blocking a clear shot. They're looking for a hole in the bush, a clear line of sight.

My nerves are at their wits' end, I can only imagine what Gregor is feeling. Every second feels like an eternity.
I'm waiting for Bang!

Click!
Safety again. The gun is unlocked. Obviously, they are not aware of what they are doing to my nerves with that safety.
They adjust position again, and Gregor moves further to the left. The gun was fixed on my stick
The trackers are all sitting down, as if cast from bronze and don’t move.
Now Christian is preparing the 416.

Bang!
My friend fired!

Now the show starts. I said to myself, now we have the situation in the bush!
Everyone gets up. I get up, trying to keep the frame in the video on that mobile phone.
Gregor reloads the rifle in one second.
I don't think I can reload bolt action that fast. I watched the video later, and reloading took one second! I thought to myself if the buffalo is wounded now in the bushes, we're screwed.
We waited a bit to gather ourselves together.
Trackers and scouts are observing, catching on their radar where these buffalo ran and the direction in which the tracks disappeared.

We moved ahead without running. Slowly, we made our way through the bush and came out into the clearing. I saw the clearing 20 meters before the edge of the bush, a greenish strip being visible through the branches.

And then, relief!

An eye candy, 50 meters from the edge of the bush, the buffalo was lying in the field. Not moving.
Gregor takes a coup de grâce, an insurance shot. In the spine.
Now we switched to congratulations, hugging and patting mode. Everyone was happy! We all hug. The buffalo is down!

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03 Buffalo.JPG


Suddenly, at one point, Gregor looked at me.
Seriously.
I knew what that meant. A serious, deadly look full of anticipation and hope cut sharply through the warm Namibian air! What the silence and look meant was - Did I record everything? Did I fail?
This is now a question of life and death!

For a moment, the idea crossed my mind to say to him, "BATTERY, AZIZ!"
"I forgot to press REC. Let's do it again!"
“Sorry, buddy, we will do better next time! Haha!

But the seriousness of his look x-raying me deep in the eyes up to my frontal cortex, and a loaded rifle in his hand, dissuaded me from making a joke. The moment was not for that!
I gave a thumbs up and said in a comforting voice, Everything is recorded. Don't worry!!!

Upon arrival at skinners camp, the autopsy showed a shot straight to the heart!
Buffalo ran from the place of the shot, maybe 150 meters up to 200 where he fell with one bullet in the heart.
Done perfectly!

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From my side, I proudly returned the phone back to the owner, being happy I am honorably relieved from filming duty! Job done!

Another thing that happened with that buffalo shot, is that we have just bought the most valuable African commodity. The time! It was day 3 of the hunt, and plenty of time remaining yet to spend! Africa now seemed like an open oyster, and I was looking forward with great expectations to what she would offer next. Victoria Falls is now a reality!
For dinner, we had buffalo steaks (from my buffalo), with a plan to hit the road the next morning for the Botswana border and Victoria Falls.
 
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A TRIP TO VIC FALLS

Mosi-oa-Tunya - "the smoke that thunders". UNESCO Heritage site. And today we are going there.

About 120 km from our hunting grounds, and across three borders.
The journey there is an adventure in itself. Christian, Gregor and me were going, and the trackers stayed at the camp. Chirstians friend Steve will meet us in Zim.
To get to Victoria falls, we must first enter Botswana from Namibia, pass through Chobe National Park, and arrive in the town of Kasane in Botswana, where we will park the car. And so we did. Along the first leg before entering Botswana, we went through the sanitary procedure, the car tires went through a pool with disinfectant, and we had to wipe our shoes through the same wash for veterinary protection against foot and mouth disease transmitted by buffaloes (veterinary corridor procedure). This marked our exit from the veterinary corridor, although I am not certain that buffaloes crossing Chobe river daily to Namibian pastures follow the same procedure of wiping their hooves.
While passing through Chobe National Park, we saw plenty of game; elephants, giraffes, baboons, tsessebes and kudus. A regular road leads through the park, and there is no entrance fee.
When a buffalo appeared on the side of the road, we had to stop on the handbrake to examine it in detail. In the last couple of days, we must have become sensitive to buffaloes!

00 Botswana buffalo.JPG


We left the car at the tourist resort in Kasane, paid for parking, and took a taxi to the border.
The taxi ride from Kasane to the Botswana–Zimbabwe border took about 30 minutes and costs 10 euros. We crossed the border on foot, like backpackers, and were warmly greeted on the other side by Steve, who was waiting with a pickup truck to drive us the final stretch to Victoria Falls.

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Victoria Falls on the Zambezi River was discovered by dr. David Livingstone in 1855, during his second expedition.

During his last, fourth, expedition to the interior, he lost contact and got lost in the region, and was later found by Henry Morton Stanley, an American, whose rescue expedition was sponsored by the New York Herald, which made him famous after publishing his book.

Stanley was given the logistics for the trip, and for the formation of the caravan by Arab traders and slave hunters from Zanzibar, which was then the center of the slave and ivory trade on the Indian Ocean. Stanley found Livingstone in 1871.

Livingston's first most famous words on the discovery of the falls were "Scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight”.

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In modern days the things to see. Vic falls, Batoka gorge, the bridge, and the famous hotel. A natural world heritage place, and the other two were the central architectural constructions of the Cape to Cairo transcontinental railroad project.
The hotel was built in 1904, and the bridge to Zambia in 1905.

Until the 80ies, hotel was owned by the national railroad company, a little-known fact. And some
historical regional political meetings were held there. Today hotel is a tourist center, and a place for various conservation presentations and scientific projects. Entire place is surrounded by national parks: Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park (Zambia), Victoria Falls National Park (Zimbabwe), Zambezi National Park and Chobe National Park (Botswana, nearby), and of course, nearby hunting areas well known in the hunting community.

On arrival, we stayed at a local lodge for two days, had time to see around, and tasted good food. The event of the trip was dinner at Vic Falls hotel, where a local group performed a dance.
Two days passed quickly, and after a coffee over the Batoka gorge in the morning, we went back to Salambala to collect our staff, guns, and trackers and go back to the farm. There were still 5 days to go till our return flights.

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With a feeling of sadness in me for leaving, we thanked for everything to our hosts in the camp at Salambala, and next morning we took the trip back to the farm.
 
INGWE

This morning I woke up at 5 am on the farm while everyone was still sleeping. I couldn’t sleep
By 6 am I had crawled out to the cold fire pit that had been extinguished, made coffee in the mess and lit a cigarette. I shouldn't be so tense, but the situation was developing unexpectedly.

After the two buffalo were in the salt , I was supposed to casually hunt jackals and baboons on the farm for the remaining days.

The hunting group of 6 hunters that came with us is going home this morning, and I'm staying with Gregor for a few more days. The guys from the group are leaving, they came out from chalets ready for the trip, full of experiences, and full of stories, with luggage packed

But I cold hardly follow what they're saying.
I was tense, and trying to focus.
I remembered that I have internet and wi fi, and I won't have it out at the hunting ground, so I quickly screenshotted shot placement that I hadn't studied before, because earlier I was preparing only for the buffalo, not for this. Not for today.
It started yesterday.

While we were driving from Caprivi, they called from the farm.
The hunter, a first timer on safari, saw a leopard from a blind at a waterhole.
The hunter was not sure what he wanted or what he could do, or how much it would cost (instead of asking) to bag a leopard, so he observed the leopard through glass for 15 minutes and took pictures with his cell phone. He didn't shoot.
And they told us that.
Seeing the cat in broad daylight is a rare chance. He missed it.

So, during the ride home, I asked Christian, Would it be possible to try for a leopard?
So, we agreed.
Tian and me will be going.

And now in next morning after returning to the farm, on the fast track, I was memorizing leopard shot placement, trying to visually imagine shooting the leopard at an angle, quartering shot, chest shot, etc...

We left for a blind at 9 am.
We waited for 10 hours. Ate sandwiches, Tian and me.
During the day, the warthogs came out for a drink at the waterhole.
A few of them are real Banana Joe, real monsters.
A pack of baboons came out, two big males at midday. I denied myself shooting at a baboon this time, waiting for a leopard.

At 18:55 p.m., it was getting dark, and the sunset had passed. The air became fresh.
I lit my last cigarette with the wind in my face, which I denied myself the entire day, and said to Tian when I'm done, we pack up. Let's go to dinner.
Halfway through the cigarette, Tain kicks me in the leg. The leopard, he whispered!
Where!?
I throw away the cigarette, stomped the but with the sole of my foot, and grabbed my rifle.

The worst place where leopard could, is where it came out, and that's where 80% of animals came out today. On the left side, in the lowest place, which is slightly sheltered by the embankment, 130 meters, with the far end at 147 meters. When the warthog was drinking, half of him was sheltered from line of sight.

I raised the rifle onto the support, quietly.
I brought the leopard into the scope's croshhairs.
Safety went off.
Leopard by now was in the clear, the only problem was it was just getting too dark, too soon.
I tried two illumination levels on the reticle and switched to a minimum with the magnification from daytime 8X to twilight 6X.
I could still see the vital zones on a cat, giving me a slight frontal diagonal shot.

Tian? "Shoot? No shoot?"
Silence.
“Tian?”
"Female. Narrow head. No shoot."

The excitement and adrenaline dropped. But now we grabbed a moment. Carpe diem, So rare moment to see leopard in wild.
We followed her through the scopes for the next 10 minutes until complete darkness.
The female drank water. She sat then directly across from us, for a minute or two over her watering hole. After that, she slowly climbed the embankment and walked slowly along the edge, sat down twice, and observed her kingdom. We followed her with our eyes in silence. Spots on her furbecame no longer visible. By now I saw only the silhouette and the elegance of this cat's movements. Tian whispered “Beautiful cat. Beautiful cat”.
The moments passed while she was still sitting on the ridge, facing us, but not being aware of our presence. Then she stood up, and we followed her and escorted with a last look into the bush.

We went home to the farm, and tried next day, but without success. She didn’t came out

There was one more day to spend. The last day before returning home.
In the morning, we tried scouting for duiker and baboons, without success.

And late afternoon with Gregor I went in the blind in other part of the hunting area. A male leopard was visiting the bait. Why not give it a try?
We arrived after lunch and waited until dark.
A standard exchange of thirsdy animals passed by the watering hole: a warthog saw with her young, a group of kudu, a group of impala, zebras, 3 waterbucks. The last to visit where a flock of impalas, about 3o of them, which, after the drink, quietly dispersed in the bush

It was getting dark, but we could still see well, because the full moon was behind us.
In a gap in the bushes, I saw a shadow, which moved along the edge of the forest.
Then I saw a head and one leg, against light colored dried grass.
A dark shadow.
I thought, an impala. The impalas had passed this way half an hour ago.
The shadow turned in our direction and started walking towards us, and against the contrast of the light grass in the background, I could see a long cat's tail, and elegant feline movements!

I said to Gregor, Leopard!

I prepared to shoot.
The leopard was 30, 40 meters from the bait, from where I saw him, and the bait was 80 meters from the blind

I adjusted the optics for the best visibility - about 6X and turned on the dot with the least illumination.
I was on stand by, aiming on the warthog bait for 10 minutes, waiting for the cat to come out.
5 more minutes...
The time was slow and tense, with two guns in the direction of the bait. Gregor was on standby for backup shot.
After ten minutes, a jackal is heard howling in the bushes. It wasn't a classic howl.
And that was the last.

After a while, a car was heard in the distance. And I could see the headlights from afar.
When Basti picked us up, he explained to us that the jackal sometimes follows the leopard, and howls specifically when the leopard is in the bush and hunting.
Notifies other jackals. That I did not know before.
So I didn't imagine a leopard in the dark.
There he was.
He just didn't come out for us. Smart beast.

On return to the place that by bow I call home, we had last dinner to make, pack the things and prepare for flight tomorrow. It was a good try on the leopard. It was a great hunt on buffalo. And there is always a reason to come back again.

And my buffalo came back in my thoughts, and events of previous days…. Buffalo in the reeds.


Leopard at waterhole.png
 
BUFFALO IN THE REEDS

This morning, we started in the dark, around five o'clock. Second day of hunting in Caprivi. Full of expectations. In early daylight, first we saw about 12 buffaloes across the Chobe River in Botswana, on the other side. They wouldn't cross, looking a bit shy. They kept looking at us from a safe distance, and from a very safe place
We left them behind, and we drove further along the hunting ground, looking for tracks on the dusty road.

As we came out from behind a bush, which was forming a narrow, tipped edge of the forest in the field, the car stopped quietly. On my left was a flock of pelicans, ambushing the fish in the local pond. I thought this was a good chance for bird watching and photo taking, and pulled a camera out of my backpack. I thought how nice of our Ph and boys, to keep quiet and give me a chance for a good photo. It was too quiet, but being busy with pelican business, I did not pay too much attention to that.

01 Pelicans.JPG


While I was busy bird watching on the left, Gregor kicked me quietly in the knee. I turned right to say something, and then I saw over his shoulder….. Now tell me about a surprise!

00 three buffalos.jpg


They had that primal look facing us, telling us we're a nuisance in their world, with the long grass sticking from their chewing mouths. They were there! At less than 50 meters away, and they were huge!
Three buffaloes.

Now things started to happen quickly.
We drove off to a safe distance to get prepared. And I used the moment to mentally prepare for the situation rapidly evolving

When I saw the three of them in the open, my legs turned to lead.
The voices around me became distant. “Leave the bino, leave the backpack, take only the rifle”. But I wasn’t listening, I was getting into the focus, with one thought only: I must not fail! And I have to get into the zone fast.

After a short brief, I packed up, carrying nothing but my rifle. With us out of the car jumped out Christian, Gregor, our trackers Tian and Martin, and two game rangers from the local community. The rangers approved the hunt to make sure everything is legal. The location and the buffalo are approved!
Rangers are not carrying weapons.
Christian fastened his ammo belt and loaded the 416 double, and I handed him over the stick. My ammo was in a belt pouch, and the rifle was loaded with a round chambered.

We moved in line towards them. The buffaloes were moving at a slow trot towards the forest, in the back, and which we left behind when we first saw them.

We followed them, at a fast walk. In a column.
Buffaloes entered deeper into the hunting ground. We followed them to the edge of the forest, and I could see them briefly through the branches and bushes, when they quickly disappeared. They kept the distance.
From my perspective, being second in line, I was observing the silhouettes of large animals in the bush, the quartering position of their gray backs, the occasional movement of the tail, the flick of the ear, and I didn't like it at all. No clean shot, and they were on the move.
We followed them further through the forest, and we quickly emerged at the edge of the vegetation, into another clearing. Tall grass and reeds.
Fortunately, the forest was not wide.

Three buffaloes were now out in the open, and only one small tree was between us. They have kept their distance, and there they have stopped.
They were looking at us. All three were standing broadside. Could I wish for more?

We moved quickly in a column to reduce our silhouette towards the single tree, halfway to them, which covered us.
There were too many of us in the column, and I walked, making sure to keep the barrel in a safe direction.

We were approaching fast as I mentally prepared myself to shoot, for a deadly sequence - scope power, stick, aiming, reticle, breathing, safety, trigger. I'm turning it over and over and recycling in my head, not to forget something. (like never did I forget to turn safety off in a shooting situation)
We reached that single tree for cover.
Christian set up the stick.

"100 meters, shoot the one on the right."
The rifle went on the stick. And safety went off.

As I pulled the Swarovski optics reticle onto the black shoulder point of aim, this was supposed to be the culmination of years of planning, research, and preparation. All the “iffs” and “whens” and “hows” were suddenly cleared out of the way; all of that has led up to this point. Now, just a trigger pull away. But there was no time for analysis. All that came in retrospect and later thoughts.
At this moment, I was in the zone, where nothing else existed, where my entire world narrowed to the image in the scope, the thin reticle, the pressure of my finger on that little round piece of metal, the trigger. This was it.

A patch of grass covered my crosshairs held steady in the center of the heart. Murphy's rule kicked in again, no perfect shot opportunity when you truly need it.
I moved my sights. I didn't want to take any chances shooting through a patch of grass. Otherwise buffalo was standing perfectly broad side in the reeds. I aimed a little to the left of the center of Buffalo's shoulder because of the grass patch between us. I deliberately gave up shooting at the center heart. Now I was fixed at double lungs, and at best, hoping for “side heart shot”, or scratching the heart area at best. A bit aside was a better chance than diverting a bullet path through the grass, in my math.

375 H&H roared, and gave me the happy sound of a dull thud of bullet hitting home.
The buffalo jumped forward, its front legs extended. And he took a few steps.
If I got it right reading the reaction, it's a double lung!
The other two buffaloes made a semicircle around it, looking at us and not running away and keeping the distance.

“Quick, quick, shoot again. Reload.” (like I needed to be told)

Next bullet was in the chamber. The stick remained on the ground, as we made few running steps forward. “Shoot, shoot!”
Now I was free-standing, rifle in hand, with the seconds at play as the buffalo gave us a chance for a second shot. There was no time for the stick or the games of shooting from some kind of rest.

I placed the reticle on the same spot where I first aimed. Although I could move a bit more to the heart area, as he was still broadside and away from that patch of grass. Grass was no longer in equations, but aiming at the same point gave me a sense of security and consistency. A little forward, from the heart, double lungs, again, I aimed.
Blam!
In the heat of the moment. the recoil of the rifle was not felt, and in my stomach, I felt that the shot was good. He jumped the same as before, front legs stretched!
Next, he spat blood. I could see it through the optics at 6X!
It's good! He was spitting blood, and the bullet effect is visible and very promising. He was hit hard.

I almost couldn't believe that within a few seconds he immediately threw blood out of his mouth in abundance. But the optics don't lie.
We took a few steps towards him to close the distance.

“Load! Shoot”. I heard it from a distance.

Buffalo took a few steps and turned towards us!
He didn't run! But instead, he turned towards us.
And he's not going to fall from these two shots!
He's given me a third shot now!

He held that primal gaze at us, while blood poured from his jaws and nostrils, and dripped in a slow, interrupted stream down his neck and onto the grass.
Whatever he was thinking it was not good in my understanding, and the three options that he had flashed through my mind, charge, run in the bush, or run across the river.
And none of these options seemed desirable to me.
I wanted him down! And I wanted him down – NOW! It flashed again through my mind.

With the next round in the chamber, I discarded the options of double lungs and a frontal shot to the chest! Another hole in the lungs means nothing to me. And probably not to him either!
Now I was aiming for the head, a third shot! A stopping shot, even if he's standing and not charging!
I aimed between the eyes, pulled, and hit under the left eye.
His legs just gave out.
He went down, like in slow motion.

Now we ran again, towards him, so he wouldn't get up. I wanted to approach him from behind, to the right, if he stood up to be behind him. Christian put his hand on my shoulder and pulled me towards the group, to the left.
We got to him, and Christian said: “Shoot here, in the middle of the chest.”
Fourth shot, went in the middle of the chest. .
Blam.
He flinched and then calmed down.
Then another one just in case. Just in case, for a measure.

The gun is now empty.
All was quiet for a moment!
Then I heard the voices from a distance, as slowly I calmed down.
I asked Christian later why he had his hand on my shoulder on approach. He said: “To stay in line, I saw you wanted to go right. And I didn’t want you to shoot at 90 degrees, from the group. because of the possible deflection of the bullet and other people in the line.”

02 My buffalo down 1.jpg

1st shot

03 My buffalo down 2.jpg
2nd shot

04 My buffalo down 3.jpg


3rd shot

Gregor jumped in: I have everything recorded on video!
Wait? What?! He's telling me that now?!
I hadn't thought about that.
Actually, I expected him to be carrying his backup rifle with Christian!!! And I told them both to back me up if necessary!
Okay, I'll look into it later. Back up wasn’t needed after all, but I was expecting both of them to carry rifles.

When everything quieted down, my field of vision slowly returned to normal, and with the adrenaline dropping, I came out of the zone.
Now I had to calm my emotions.

05 My buffalo down.JPG


06 my bufffalo down me and christian.JPG


The next day, we continued hunting. Gregor's buffalo was next, and in the following days, I sorted through my thoughts and emotions. There was a lot to process in my head, and in the days that followed, I had time to sort through my impressions and feelings. And make new plans.
Every trip is a learning. This time I had the true privilege, or maybe it was just sheer luck, to experience two different buffalo hunts. One in tall grass, the other in the bush. What I have seen there, buffalo in the open and buffalo in the bush are two different animals. The first one is wary and keeps a distance, the other one is spooky and nervous. The approach and experience are different for each of them. One will require a longer shot, probably giving time for a stick; the other one is a close call. Both hunts are tense and emotional.
Both of us Gregor and me, after years of planning, preparation efforts, and years of expectations when buffaloes were down, we both cried, as the accumlated tension dropped.
In the following days, Christian called it "connection". The connection between the hunter and nature and the animal

And after ten days of hunting, high adrenaline, offroad drives in 4WD, long sitting in a blind, when I got on the plane, I just felt the fatigue drain from me. I fell asleep. And I think I dreamed of elephants and lions.


retro buffalos marko i gregor v2 (1).PNG
 
This is an amazing trip! I am glad you are taking us along. Thank You
 
What a super great write up and story. Thank you, for your experience and time. Thank you.
How much I have learnt on this forum, and how much support I got in private contacts from many of the forum members, this is the minimum I could do.

Thank you for the appreciation.
 
This is an amazing trip! I am glad you are taking us along. Thank You
Thanks for the comments! I am glad you enjoyed the story, especially as English is not my first language.
 
A great adventure well told. Thank you! Have that last picture printed really large on canvas in sepia or black and white for wherever you have an evening Whisky, Cognac, or perhaps Palinka (like mezcal it is wonderful after the first sip or two).
 

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cwickgo9 wrote on Bwana Man's profile.
In the pay it forward, I'll take those 38 S&W brass and bullets. I have a .38 Webley that will love something to eat
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308 Norma FL die... Please send to me at:

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Again, thanks. I I can do something for you I certainly will.

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Gert Odendaal wrote on Buff's profile.
Did you enjoy your black powder buffalo hunt?
Any report about the hunt here on African Hunting .com?
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I have a 30-06 that is fluted and has sights. Shot very little & I have it listed on gb, Derek
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Afternoon I just received a message but cannot find the text sorry, how can I help?
 
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