General Double Care and Cleaning

[Wildwillalaska]

Reading through all the varied opinions in the trending thread about whether we are cleaning our rifles to death, just highlighted how ignorant I am as to the of the special needs and proper care of doubles. This was further highlighted when I finally got to go out and shoot my new-to-me Heym 470 88b and discovered a firing pin issue. If a bolt gun, I could have quickly removed and disassembled the bolt, replaced whatever part, on the double, I was left scratching my head until I could get pictures to JJ and asked what it was and how it might have occurred with the first shot or somehow slipped through his regulation and strip/clean. Regardless, back to dreaming about shooting it more than flinging lead as it heads back to Oklahoma.

Having shot various bench rest and more f-class compeitions over the years, I’m pretty dialed into my various and evolving cleaning processes for hunting and comp rifles. I am, however, not even close to comfortable for the double. Being a huge advocate of quality, custom bore guides, I’m even at a loss if folks even mess with them on their doubles. Not talking about a quick patch or bore-snake at the end of a dusty or rainy hunting day, but end of the season or after many, many rounds, when time to actually clean the barrels. Folks prefer to clean assembled, or disassembled? Assuming the later.

What parts of the mating surfaces do folks grease vs oil? What oils have folks found best to use vs. avoid since whatever goes into the action isn’t easily coming out it would seem until needs for a full strip and clean. Can envision gumming something of legitimate concern…and while every bottle seems to advertise it will not gum up, I remain suspicious.

On this little 450/400, I’ll likely continue shooting the Hornady ammo for now (at least until I decide whether I’ll keep it or not), but in the 470 I have several boxes of Barnes and will likely shoot TSX for buffalo, so will need to address copper more than I would with other bullet choices. I am curious how much metal fouling fold see from the bronze mono solids like CEB. Even though I only got to shoot 4 rounds through the 470, it still put a big smile on the face and enjoyed it immensely. I can see this little 450/400 getting neglected or let go once the 470 returns.

Anyway, appreciate and respect the information folks share here, so would enjoy hearing how you fine gents prefer to care for your doubles. Including a little eye candy. When I had to pack the 470 up to return south, took a few photos to compare proportions and such.

Cheers,
Will

 

[Altitude sickness]

Very nice

 

[Rare Breed]

Reading through all the varied opinions in the trending thread about whether we are cleaning our rifles to death, just highlighted how ignorant I am as to the of the special needs and proper care of doubles. This was further highlighted when I finally got to go out and shoot my new-to-me Heym 470 88b and discovered a firing pin issue. If a bolt gun, I could have quickly removed and disassembled the bolt, replaced whatever part, on the double, I was left scratching my head until I could get pictures to JJ and asked what it was and how it might have occurred with the first shot or somehow slipped through his regulation and strip/clean. Regardless, back to dreaming about shooting it more than flinging lead as it heads back to Oklahoma.

Having shot various bench rest and more f-class compeitions over the years, I’m pretty dialed into my various and evolving cleaning processes for hunting and comp rifles. I am, however, not even close to comfortable for the double. Being a huge advocate of quality, custom bore guides, I’m even at a loss if folks even mess with them on their doubles. Not talking about a quick patch or bore-snake at the end of a dusty or rainy hunting day, but end of the season or after many, many rounds, when time to actually clean the barrels. Folks prefer to clean assembled, or disassembled? Assuming the later.

What parts of the mating surfaces do folks grease vs oil? What oils have folks found best to use vs. avoid since whatever goes into the action isn’t easily coming out it would seem until needs for a full strip and clean. Can envision gumming something of legitimate concern…and while every bottle seems to advertise it will not gum up, I remain suspicious.

On this little 450/400, I’ll likely continue shooting the Hornady ammo for now (at least until I decide whether I’ll keep it or not), but in the 470 I have several boxes of Barnes and will likely shoot TSX for buffalo, so will need to address copper more than I would with other bullet choices. I am curious how much metal fouling fold see from the bronze mono solids like CEB. Even though I only got to shoot 4 rounds through the 470, it still put a big smile on the face and enjoyed it immensely. I can see this little 450/400 getting neglected or let go once the 470 returns.

Anyway, appreciate and respect the information folks share here, so would enjoy hearing how you fine gents prefer to care for your doubles. Including a little eye candy. When I had to pack the 470 up to return south, took a few photos to compare proportions and such.

Cheers,
WillView attachment 711008View attachment 711009

First beautiful guns!!! Congratulations!!! I treat my DRs like my bolt actions. Just bore patches even at end of season for carbon not copper unless regulation/accuracy changes. Yes I disassemble to clean. The only thing I do different is a slight application of gun grease to the hinge where the barrels connect

 

[Troubleshooter]

What parts of the mating surfaces do folks grease vs oil? What oils have folks found best to use vs. avoid since whatever goes into the action isn’t easily coming out it would seem until needs for a full strip and clean. Can envision gumming something of legitimate concern…and while every bottle seems to advertise it will not gum up, I remain suspicious.

I've always applied lube in the same manner and locations as with a SxS shotgun. Not sure why it would be any different with a SxS rifle.

 

[Kevin Peacocke]

Very fine doubles there, well done.

I think that on doubles what is not exposed should not be messed with. leave that to the experts, but for sure get them to service the action at some interval.
I am a great believer in conditioning moving metal surfaces with moly paste, which contains millions of micro spheres, like ball bearings, that fill all the irregularities and smooth the contact surfaces. I do this with new or old equipment, like fishing reels and airguns. The secret is to apply it very sparingly to a de-greased surfaces; it is not a lubricant but a surface conditioner.
However on new surfaces there is a step before that. Machined surfaces, even precision ground ones are actually quite rough viewed under a microscope, and a degree of flattening out of the peaks is in order. I had the great privilege of obtaining a brand new double rifle and there are some pointers I learned that may be of use. The action is stiff and just like a car needs to be 'run-in', so does a double. It comes from the factory greased, but I took the action apart and cleaned off all the mating surfaces I could see, being the hinge pin and it's cup and the under lockup mating surfaces. Then apply a very small amount of light sewing machine oil evenly everywhere, and work the action over and over, hundreds of times. This will smooth out the high points, not remove metal. On my Heym I would guess that this took at least a thousand cycles over several days and it eased up gradually. I have heard of people advocating using grinding paste and I can think of nothing worse. That is akin to accerated wear!
Once surfaces are run in, clean off thoroughly, degrease and thoroughly rub in a very small amount of moly paste. Re-assemble and work the action a few dozen times which spreads the paste and fills in all the nooks and crannies. Finally aplly a small amount of light lubricating grease and re-assemble and re-work.

After a shoot I put a brass brush through just three or fout times, followed by the cleaning mop and then the second mop with a very light trace of oil, hardly any at all.

For regular and ongoing lubrication on my Heym's hinge pin I prefer a tiny application of light oil. There is not much else to do but a wipe down of the parrels etc with a lightly oiled rag.

 

[Wildwillalaska]

Right on. Thank y’all for the kind words and sharing your routines. I figured this would prove true, but hate to assume and better to just ask. The little 450/400 is still very, very stiff, but is smooth and mating together well I think.

 

[Bejane]

Very fine doubles there, well done.

I think that on doubles what is not exposed should not be messed with. leave that to the experts, but for sure get them to service the action at some interval.
I am a great believer in conditioning moving metal surfaces with moly paste, which contains millions of micro spheres, like ball bearings, that fill all the irregularities and smooth the contact surfaces. I do this with new or old equipment, like fishing reels and airguns. The secret is to apply it very sparingly to a de-greased surfaces; it is not a lubricant but a surface conditioner.
However on new surfaces there is a step before that. Machined surfaces, even precision ground ones are actually quite rough viewed under a microscope, and a degree of flattening out of the peaks is in order. I had the great privilege of obtaining a brand new double rifle and there are some pointers I learned that may be of use. The action is stiff and just like a car needs to be 'run-in', so does a double. It comes from the factory greased, but I took the action apart and cleaned off all the mating surfaces I could see, being the hinge pin and it's cup and the under lockup mating surfaces. Then apply a very small amount of light sewing machine oil evenly everywhere, and work the action over and over, hundreds of times. This will smooth out the high points, not remove metal. On my Heym I would guess that this took at least a thousand cycles over several days and it eased up gradually. I have heard of people advocating using grinding paste and I can think of nothing worse. That is akin to accerated wear!
Once surfaces are run in, clean off thoroughly, degrease and thoroughly rub in a very small amount of moly paste. Re-assemble and work the action a few dozen times which spreads the paste and fills in all the nooks and crannies. Finally aplly a small amount of light lubricating grease and re-assemble and re-work.

After a shoot I put a brass brush through just three or fout times, followed by the cleaning mop and then the second mop with a very light trace of oil, hardly any at all.

For regular and ongoing lubrication on my Heym's hinge pin I prefer a tiny application of light oil. There is not much else to do but a wipe down of the parrels etc with a lightly oiled rag.

Morning Kevin,

Which molypaste in RSa do you use for your guns? I'm keen to get same

thank you

 

[RockSlinger404]

I've always applied lube in the same manner and locations as with a SxS shotgun. Not sure why it would be any different with a SxS rifle.

I've done the same, however my SxS shotgun is normally just used for a day and then cleaned. It is also normally used in winter (upland season) when it is rainy, so there is much less dust. During my elephant hunt I found that due to the dust, the action on my 89b became difficult to close. Going forward my idea is to grease the gun for range use, but rather just oil for hunting.

Not sure if that makes sense or someone has any better idea?