Fire forming for 400 H&H

Pheroze

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I am going to use the abundance of 375 H&H brass that I have to make practice ammo for my 400 H&H. This is my first attempt at fire forming brass to convert it to a different calibre, so any insight and advice is welcome.

My plan is to resize 375 H&H brass to the 400 H&H shape and then load a 300 grain Barnes .411 bullet over 77 grains of Varget for a velocity of about 2576 fps according to Quickload. Hopefully this will provide me with a more available source of practice ammo. Please let me know your thoughts.

Pheroze
 
Run 375 H&H brass thru a 375 die then directly into your 400 H&H die and be sure to use plenty of lube but not too much to cause dents and you should be ready to go! proper brass for Quality Brass is
available when you head to Africa. I have one built by Kevin Weaver and it is a shooter with both North Forks and A-frames 400 gr. I've used Hunter and Varget and both do well. I have destain for Barnes bullets due to fowling and inconsistent game performance (I know.....HATE MAIL to follow). and much prefer heavy for caliber bullets. The beauty of the 400H&H is very little difference in recoil compared to 375 H&H.
 
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Run 375 H&H brass thru a 375 die then directly into your 400 H&H die and be sure to use plenty of lube but not too much to cause dents and you should be ready to go! proper brass for Quality Brass is
available when you head to Africa. I have one built by Kevin Weaver and it is a shooter with both North Forks and A-frames 400 gr. I've used Hunter and Varget and both do well. I have destain for Barnes bullets due to fowling and inconsistent game performance (I know.....HATE MAIL to follow). and much prefer heavy for caliber bullets. The beauty of the 400H&H is very little difference in recoil compared to 375 H&H.
Thank you

I too have North Forks and A Frames set up with my head stamped brass. I really like this calibre.

I am apprehensive about the initial shot with the reformed brass as it looks different even after running it through the 400 die. I appreciate reassurance!
 
What are your thoughts on annealing of the neck & shoulder prior to running the cases through the 400 H&H die? Also would you recommend firing a fire forming load prior to the first real load?
ps in what very little case forming I've done, better results came from fire forming than by using an expander die for the intial neck up.
 
What are your thoughts on annealing of the neck & shoulder prior to running the cases through the 400 H&H die? Also would you recommend firing a fire forming load prior to the first real load?
ps in what very little case forming I've done, better results came from fire forming than by using an expander die for the intial neck up.
I have never annealed, but it seemed to accept the die easily. I use imperial wax and it seemed to be no problem. It has a taper still that needs to blow out.

Quivkload shows this powder charge and bullet to have very moderate pressure. I am not sure what else I would use to otherwise fire form the case
 
You can either size and fire a 40cal projectile or a compacted wad of toilet paper, some will put some corn meal on top of the powder and then toilet paper. Either will work. Some cases require two firings to form properly. I’ve loaded cast projectiles on an appropriate powder charge and use as close up hunting round or just a plinking round when forming 300 wind bag into 280 nitro express.
Gumpy
 
Your plan should work. If you get some stretching on the case web, you can size it to something bigger, then back down just till the bolt closes. You shouldn’t have to being belted, but I’ve had to do it to a 303 before.
 

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