Best Big Bore Gong?

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Does everyone else just shoot paper every week?
I think the issue is "big bores". Many of us shoot gongs regularly but not with big bores. I do some myself, mostly with .375 and don't have damage to the good AR 500 steel.
 
So the problem with big bores and steel isn’t that AR500 steel will be penetrated, it’s more that the energy transferred will wreak havoc on your supports and attachments.
Bullet type and speed has the most effect on penetration/damage of the plate itself. High speed OTM bullets cause the most damage to the plate. Heavy high energy bullets swing the plate and torque the supports.
My recommendation is 3/8” AR500 steel hung by at least one wide rubber strap bolted with a large bolt with very large flat washers.

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I got away from chains a while back. Now my gongs have 2" strap steel bolted to the gong, heated and bent forward facing (so you won't hit it most likely), and then bent around the horizontal pipe on the gong frames. Nearly indestructible. I learned this from Tim Fallon at SAAM. I've learned a lot from him!
That's a great idea, Philip. Have you determined what the ideal length of steel strap? Do you happen to have a photo of this to share?
 
So the problem with big bores and steel isn’t that AR500 steel will be penetrated, it’s more that the energy transferred will wreak havoc on your supports and attachments.
Bullet type and speed has the most effect on penetration/damage of the plate itself. High speed OTM bullets cause the most damage to the plate. Heavy high energy bullets swing the plate and torque the supports.
My recommendation is 3/8” AR500 steel hung by at least one wide rubber strap bolted with a large bolt with very large flat washers.
Thanks for your thoughts Savage. I hadn't thought of, or used rubber either. Your backstop looks very similar to what we use. Very nice. You can get quite a few years out of those railroad ties before needing to replace.
 
I have one of these https://www.midwayusa.com/product/101876298?pid=600735

I will probably just use the gongs for now on that above target holder. The silhouette will be on a static hangar + 2x4 but at a further distance
Yup, I have a couple of the same gong stand as well (only single version, not dual) I find the repeated pounding of just a 300 WM causes continuous replacement of the chain/bolts. Thats why I was interested in what others may use as a bigger/better solution for 375+ calibers. It sounds like the 3/8" AR500 steel is the way to go but, equally important would be a more robust yet flexible hanging solution.
 
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Yup, I have a couple of the same gong stand as well (only single version, not dual) I find the repeated pounding of just a 300 WM causes continuous replacement of the chain/bolts. Thats why I was interested in what others may use as a bigger/better solution for 375+ calibers. It sounds like the 3/8" AR500 steel is the way to go but, equally important would be a more robust yet flexible hanging solution.
So I dont use bolts to secure the targets to chains. My trick is to use S hooks to connect the chains to the targets. I close the ends of the s hooks with a table vise. This has made it really stable. Havent had to replace anything at all after that. I also loctited the top bolts and no issues there either

Ill be shooting more .300WM at closer distances once I upgrade to 5/8" targets so I will revisit the chains/bolts/hooks after that
 
So I dont use bolts to secure the targets to chains. My trick is to use S hooks to connect the chains to the targets. I close the ends of the s hooks with a table vise. This has made it really stable. Havent had to replace anything at all after that. I also loctited the top bolts and no issues there either

Ill be shooting more .300WM at closer distances once I upgrade to 5/8" targets so I will revisit the chains/bolts/hooks after that
Ahhh, great idea as well. Thanks MTA89...
 
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That's a great idea, Philip. Have you determined what the ideal length of steel strap? Do you happen to have a photo of this to share?
I am in Nashville at SCI now. I'll need to take some pics to further explain. It takes some doing to get them all set up like this but it is permanent.
 
IMHO,

AR 500 is the best plate to use, I think. Use 1/4”(10.2lbs per sq ft), 5/16”(12.8lbs per sq ft) or 3/8”(15.3lbs per sq ft) plate. If you have a local steel fabricator with a laser plate machine nearby talk to him about cutting some out for you. NOTE: it’s best to purchase a full sheet, minimum (48”x96”) , and have him cut the whole sheet.

To prevent ricochets/returning projectiles, cant the plate face down around 20 degrees this will divert the bullets towards the ground. I do this by bolting a piece angle iron to the back of the target. You can punch holes up and down the angle iron to get the cant you want. Also I use button head-twist off A-325 or A-490 structural bolts, 3/4” is usually the most common size. A fabricator or erector should have some leftovers at the end of a job.

As for attaching the target plate to a stand I use either chain, rebar or, what I like best is Fire Hose. If you know a fireman ask him if he can get you some of their worn out hose.

Disclaimer,
I am a retired structural steel fabricator and erector.

It’s snowing and raining here in Sunny California at the moment. When able I will try and take some photographs of what I am talking about.
 
Folks,

Please never ever shoot a steel plate that has a damaged surface. It is only a matter of time before a ricochet of bullet or fragments come backs towards to you. It does not matter if it if solid, soft point, hollow point or other.

Always wear eye protection as well.

I shoot a lot on steel and have always walked away from any damaged steel when visiting others properties.
 
If you Google the Steel target company UK they have some great ideas for hanging gongs. They use AR500 stakes that suspend the gong on the hook via a slot in the gong. These don’t bend or break unlike chains which are a PITA! I have also tried thick webbing off haulage truck straps (grays quickly) and conveyor belt (works quite well)
 
What do you use for steel. Last year we heard a ricochet come back at us from 200 yards.I have gongs at 200 and 300 and would like to shoot them safely
 
The university rifleteam range had a steel impact area that was a massive steel wall set at about a 45 degree angle to deflect bullets down into a sandbox. This was for 22 rimfire but was also used by the police dept, most of whom carried .357s. they could shoot soft nose or hollowpoint but no armor piercing or fmj. As far as I know, there was never a problem with damage to the backstop or bullets going anywhere but straight down.
More recently, I got a gong as surplus from the state game dept. It is 3/8" steel. I don't know what type. It is suspended from a chain with a link run through a saw horse shaped rebar stand. It isn't for dangerous game rifles as it is set-up at 600 yards and most of the shooting is done with high BC bullets of target type construction. It gets splattering of lead, but no dimples. I suppose the fragments go in several directions but about the only thing in range of them is the target camera setup several yards in front of the gong.
 
IMHO,

AR 500 is the best plate to use, I think. Use 1/4”(10.2lbs per sq ft), 5/16”(12.8lbs per sq ft) or 3/8”(15.3lbs per sq ft) plate. If you have a local steel fabricator with a laser plate machine nearby talk to him about cutting some out for you. NOTE: it’s best to purchase a full sheet, minimum (48”x96”) , and have him cut the whole sheet.

To prevent ricochets/returning projectiles, cant the plate face down around 20 degrees this will divert the bullets towards the ground. I do this by bolting a piece angle iron to the back of the target. You can punch holes up and down the angle iron to get the cant you want. Also I use button head-twist off A-325 or A-490 structural bolts, 3/4” is usually the most common size. A fabricator or erector should have some leftovers at the end of a job.

As for attaching the target plate to a stand I use either chain, rebar or, what I like best is Fire Hose. If you know a fireman ask him if he can get you some of their worn out hose.

Disclaimer,
I am a retired structural steel fabricator and erector.

It’s snowing and raining here in Sunny California at the moment. When able I will try and take some photographs of what I am talking about.
Thanks for the interesting information. Please do send pics when you get a chance.
 
If you Google the Steel target company UK they have some great ideas for hanging gongs. They use AR500 stakes that suspend the gong on the hook via a slot in the gong. These don’t bend or break unlike chains which are a PITA! I have also tried thick webbing off haulage truck straps (grays quickly) and conveyor belt (works quite well)
Thanks for the tip, they do have some interesting ideas...
 
X steel targets makes a great set up, ar500, has a bunch of designs and good prices, regular run’s specials on prices
 
Conveyor belt will last a long time and is what my club uses for smaller steel. Pictured is a 10" plate on our 219 yd (200M) berm.

Flat bar steel with hooks weilded to top and lower end bolted onto the bigger steel. Some of our steel is 1/2" armor plate up to 24x24" and really heavy (and expensive).

Non magnum 30 cal and under, I shoot almost nothing but steel.
With the 9.3, I don't put many on steel and then only at 165 yards and over, for fear of damaging.

MGM targets does affordable steel targets for the various gun games and might be worth checking out.




20210810_103154.jpg
 
I just discovered AR 550 steel gongs in assorted sizes . I am replacing my 200 yard gong ASAP. IT WAS VERY SCARY TO HAVE THAT RICOCHET WHIZ BY MY SON AND I FROM 200 yards.
We shoot 300 WM regularly and the old steel is scarred .
 

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