9.3 x 74r go nogo gauges

teklanika_ray

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I am searching for go nogo guages fo 9.3x74R. If you have a set you are looking to sell I would be interested in purchasing them. Thanks in advance for your time.

Ray H
 
A wooden dowel and a set of calipers are more reliable.
 
"A wooden dowel and a set of calipers are more reliable....."
I don't want to hijack this thread but tell me more about this method of determining go/no go/proper/safe headspace. I often am looking for go/no go gauges--sometimes as simple as a 9.3x57 bit they are hard to find. It would be helpful to know of a safe way to determine the chamber 'safety" without gauges. Please help me out.
 
"A wooden dowel and a set of calipers are more reliable....."
I don't want to hijack this thread but tell me more about this method of determining go/no go/proper/safe headspace. I often am looking for go/no go gauges--sometimes as simple as a 9.3x57 bit they are hard to find. It would be helpful to know of a safe way to determine the chamber 'safety" without gauges. Please help me out.
Make sure the brass is of the SAAMI spec length with your caliper. Trim to min length as necessary.

Drop a wooden dowel of appropriate diameter into the barrel on a closed breech. Twirl the dowel, use a pencil to inscribe a circle at the crown.

Open the breech, drop your bullet down into the barrel, to where it's just kissing the lands. Close the breech. Re-insert the dowel in through through the crown until it just touches the meplat of the bullet. Inscribe another circle on the dowel, measure the distance between the 2 inscribed circles, subtract 0.02" from that, and that's your COAL.

G/NG gauges, for whatever reason, do not factor all of that in.

The Woodleigh manual goes into a great deal more detail, and i'm about 3 sheets to the wind presently.
 
Make sure the brass is of the SAAMI spec length with your caliper. Trim to min length as necessary.

Drop a wooden dowel of appropriate diameter into the barrel on a closed breech. Twirl the dowel, use a pencil to inscribe a circle at the crown.

Open the breech, drop your bullet down into the barrel, to where it's just kissing the lands. Close the breech. Re-insert the dowel in through through the crown until it just touches the meplat of the bullet. Inscribe another circle on the dowel, measure the distance between the 2 inscribed circles, subtract 0.02" from that, and that's your COAL.

G/NG gauges, for whatever reason, do not factor all of that in.

The Woodleigh manual goes into a great deal more detail, and i'm about 3 sheets to the wind presently.
COAL is different then head space, on a rimmed case, it has to do with the thickness of the rim, distance between the face of the breach and the cutout for the rim on the barrel. On a bottle neck case, the distance from the breach and the datum line on the shoulder. Completely different then COAL. Don't use the dowel method in place of proper head space guages.
 
Make sure the brass is of the SAAMI spec length with your caliper. Trim to min length as necessary.

Drop a wooden dowel of appropriate diameter into the barrel on a closed breech. Twirl the dowel, use a pencil to inscribe a circle at the crown.

Open the breech, drop your bullet down into the barrel, to where it's just kissing the lands. Close the breech. Re-insert the dowel in through through the crown until it just touches the meplat of the bullet. Inscribe another circle on the dowel, measure the distance between the 2 inscribed circles, subtract 0.02" from that, and that's your COAL.

G/NG gauges, for whatever reason, do not factor all of that in.

The Woodleigh manual goes into a great deal more detail, and i'm about 3 sheets to the wind presently.
Lol,
 
There are cross reference sheets for head space guages out their, or you can ask the reamer makers what you can use. Normally cartridges in a family, all use the same go/no-go.
"A wooden dowel and a set of calipers are more reliable....."
I don't want to hijack this thread but tell me more about this method of determining go/no go/proper/safe headspace. I often am looking for go/no go gauges--sometimes as simple as a 9.3x57 bit they are hard to find. It would be helpful to know of a safe way to determine the chamber 'safety" without gauges. Please help me out.
 
Thanks guys, but this is for a wildcat cartridge chambering. I have to have the Headspace Gage: 9.3x74R CIP. It looks like I should just order it. I was hoping someone here had a guage they were finished with. This is my first attempt at a wildcat cartridge. I should probably not get to far off script.

Ray H
 
Thanks guys, but this is for a wildcat cartridge chambering. I have to have the Headspace Gage: 9.3x74R CIP. It looks like I should just order it. I was hoping someone here had a guage they were finished with. This is my first attempt at a wildcat cartridge. I should probably not get to far off script.

Ray H
Oh, I love wild cats, what are you building?
 
Oh, I love wild cats, what are you building?
Lol, I dont even know if its doable. Reading the internet it appears a few 9.3x74r bolt actions have been made (I suspect, these were made by very talented gunsmiths, which I am not). So, I am attempting to open up the 9.3x74r to 416 and build it on a CZ 550 magnum action. It feels a bit narrow on success, but I think it is doable.


Ray H
 
That would be a tough action to get it to feed from, unless you made it a single stack magazine. Most rimmed cases that I have seen or worked on were single stack or rotory magazine. A 91mauser may work, 95 styer has been done up to 45-70, model 99 savage etc, the MK4 Enfield etc. The problem with the double stack is the chance of one rim getting behind the other and jamming it up. Their may be some single stack magazines out their for the CZ 550 though, so with lots of patience, you could get it to feed.

Out of curiosity, what would be the purpose of straightening out the case to 416? You would have a pretty anemic cartridge when done. You may want to test your idea out in a single shot first, to see.if it is going to preform how you want first.
 
A cheap H&R SB2 or a Ruger No1, something like that for your trials, just thinking that's what I would do, before I started modifying that expensive CZ550 action, to accommodate a rimmed cartridge.
 
That would be a tough action to get it to feed from, unless you made it a single stack magazine. Most rimmed cases that I have seen or worked on were single stack or rotory magazine. A 91mauser may work, 95 styer has been done up to 45-70, model 99 savage etc, the MK4 Enfield etc. The problem with the double stack is the chance of one rim getting behind the other and jamming it up. Their may be some single stack magazines out their for the CZ 550 though, so with lots of patience, you could get it to feed.

Out of curiosity, what would be the purpose of straightening out the case to 416? You would have a pretty anemic cartridge when done. You may want to test your idea out in a single shot first, to see.if it is going to preform how you want first.
Yes, you make valid points all the way around, and I was aware of the challenge of feeding that cartridge. Which is where my apprehension comes from.

You are the second person to recommend the single shot. Which seems like a really logical next step. So, I believe I'll try that first.

The why of it is not logical at all. Some of it is simply because I can, some is because my doctor told me to reduce the use of heavy recoiling weapons, a small part is that I have a crap load of 9.3x74r brass and no guns that shoot it, I plan to use the cartridge over bait for black bear not water buffalo, the last non-logical offering is, even if it does not work, I will learn from the effort.

As long as the action is not modified prio to recognition of total failure, the action can be rebarrel to 416 Rigby. I'll just make a second barrel swapper for 416 Rigby and 338 Norma Magnum, and the poetic nature of making a 416 caliber rifle on the CZ 550 magnum action with a serial number of 00416 is still satisfied. Actually, as this discussion has progressed, I'm leaning towards using a P14 reciever I have 15 or so of them. The 303 is a rimmed cartridge as is the 9.3x74r. It will just require alot of work, and I have a real POS donnor action to test it on. I think I'll still try the single action first.

I guess the bottom line up front answer is I'm bored. I don't have a better reason.

Lol, I really was just looking for headspace guages.

Ray H
 
Yes, you make valid points all the way around, and I was aware of the challenge of feeding that cartridge. Which is where my apprehension comes from.

You are the second person to recommend the single shot. Which seems like a really logical next step. So, I believe I'll try that first.

The why of it is not logical at all. Some of it is simply because I can, some is because my doctor told me to reduce the use of heavy recoiling weapons, a small part is that I have a crap load of 9.3x74r brass and no guns that shoot it, I plan to use the cartridge over bait for black bear not water buffalo, the last non-logical offering is, even if it does not work, I will learn from the effort.

As long as the action is not modified prio to recognition of total failure, the action can be rebarrel to 416 Rigby. I'll just make a second barrel swapper for 416 Rigby and 338 Norma Magnum, and the poetic nature of making a 416 caliber rifle on the CZ 550 magnum action with a serial number of 00416 is still satisfied. Actually, as this discussion has progressed, I'm leaning towards using a P14 reciever I have 15 or so of them. The 303 is a rimmed cartridge as is the 9.3x74r. It will just require alot of work, and I have a real POS donnor action to test it on. I think I'll still try the single action first.

I guess the bottom line up front answer is I'm bored. I don't have a better reason.

Lol, I really was just looking for headspace guages.

Ray H
I may have a set that you can borrow, let me look and I think the P14 is a good way to go, you shouldn't have to modify the feed rails too much, or the follower.
 
Nice, thx Boone66. Ill check back in when I have the barrel. I think it is still a month or two out.
 

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