What safety style is prefer Mauser 98

I'm swapping the trigger out on an Interarms 375HH, am a considering changing the safety out from its current trigger safety to a three position safety like a Gentry. I know it's a safer mechanism, because it blocks the firing pin. But do you guys like the three position safety better than the trigger safety?

My wife’s long time rifle is a factory FN Browning CRF chambered .30-06 with side safety. When I asked Sterling Davenport to build her a scaled down .375 H&H on a 1947 FN Mauser action I faced that same decision and decided on the side/trigger safety because that was what she was familiar with. Most will recommend a safety blocking the firing pin.

Personally, I don't think it makes that much difference. I have a three-position Model 70 style safety on my 404 Mauser and really never use position 2 (safety engaged and bolt unlocked). Safety engaged is safety engaged.

A person with small hands might find the simple 2-position trigger safety on the side of receiver quicker and easier to operate. The same person would likely require gripping the lever on Model 70 style 3-position safety with forefinger and thumb to disengage, especially if on the sticks. On the other hand (pun intended) it might be more possible to disengage trigger block safety with thumb while forefinger is on the trigger.

Each to their own, but I don't like trigger safeties. All my 98s have either the original flag type, low swing flag, Recknagel 3 Pos or chapman style 2 position.

All my '98s have a low swing flag on the left side.....as my hand grips the stock my thumb pushes the safety down.
Most low swing safety's are on the right which always felt odd to me....having to push it down before getting a proper grip....or having to bring your thumb back over...


Roger

Low side flag safety by Parker hale, some people don’t like them as they have difficulty using them…but they probably can’t tie shoe laces either.
A simple flick of the thumb for on or off, though they are for right handed players
I also tend to not to use a safety as I don’t like carrying a chambered round unless I’m stalking in on something
Gumpy

And before you swap the trigger, what type is it, some of them can be adjusted to work nicely and a lot cheaper than replacement ones

And I should add, there is nothing wrong with the side safety if it works, regardless of what some will tell you, and if the rest of the trigger works, and you still want to remove the side safety you can take it off without affecting the trigger itself , and if you do remove it you will have a gap it the stock
Gumpy

yumastepside said:

All my '98s have a low swing flag on the left side.....as my hand grips the stock my thumb pushes the safety down.
Most low swing safety's are on the right which always felt odd to me....having to push it down before getting a proper grip....or having to bring your thumb back over...


Roger

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I have one of those on my Springfield. I agree it makes more sense than wing safety on the right side. The wing has a half moon notch just right for catching the right thumb that's gripping over the stock wrist. However, these are strictly a scope relief safety. I need to change mine to another design now that I've added iron sights and option for quick detach scope. With the scope removed the safety is "unprotected" by ocular bell and hanging up in the air where it can get caught on clothing, brush, etc and inadvertantly disengaged. I also had to cut the knurled knob off the end of Springfield striker for thumb to access the safety. Now everyone thinks it is a Mauser.

Grumpy gumpy said:

View attachment 789114
Low side flag safety by Parker hale, some people don’t like them as they have difficulty using them…but they probably can’t tie shoe laces either.
A simple flick of the thumb for on or off, though they are for right handed players
I also tend to not to use a safety as I don’t like carrying a chambered round unless I’m stalking in on something
Gumpy

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While I can generally tie my own shoes, sometimes a bit stiff trying to do so mid-sheep hunt. I really only use the safety in Africa since I also do not carry a chambered rifle. On sheep hunts I chamber when ready to shoot, moose and bear, maybe as I start a final stalk and then engage the safety. I do not prefer the older flag style safety though, mostly because of big thumbs and modern optics simply do not allow appropriate room to articulate without pinching or smacking my thumb into some part of glass or gun. I think they are classic cool, and do have them on a couple or iron sighted Mausers, and have one Holland and Holland with the side rocker safety...much prefer the three position safety of the three...but its what I grew up using since a young child, so its overly familiar.

For a new build or new trigger, go with what you know and prefer. As long as you are comfortable and proficient with it, I think they all work as designed. If you pack a rifle through tight trails, especially if choked out with willow or alder, I will say the bolt lock is nice...or just turn it bolt in against the pack as I do in those tight areas.

Grumpy gumpy said:

And before you swap the trigger, what type is it, some of them can be adjusted to work nicely and a lot cheaper than replacement ones

And I should add, there is nothing wrong with the side safety if it works, regardless of what some will tell you, and if the rest of the trigger works, and you still want to remove the side safety you can take it off without affecting the trigger itself , and if you do remove it you will have a gap it the stock
Gumpy

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Stock trigger. But I just bought a new stock without the side safety cut out, so I need to decide before cutting it out.

Please remember....This is a question about what you prefer or are comfortable with...not which is the best....personal taste and usage.

Roger

I prefer the Win M 70, right side swing, striker block safety. It’s ultra reliable, logical, ergonomic and not affected by scope interference.

yumastepside said:

personal taste and usage.

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I like the low clearance flag safeties. Plenty room for a scope but maintains the bolt lock and firing pin block.

Wildwillalaska said:

While I can generally tie my own shoes, sometimes a bit stiff trying to do so mid-sheep hunt. I really only use the safety in Africa since I also do not carry a chambered rifle. On sheep hunts I chamber when ready to shoot, moose and bear, maybe as I start a final stalk and then engage the safety. I do not prefer the older flag style safety though, mostly because of big thumbs and modern optics simply do not allow appropriate room to articulate without pinching or smacking my thumb into some part of glass or gun. I think they are classic cool, and do have them on a couple or iron sighted Mausers, and have one Holland and Holland with the side rocker safety...much prefer the three position safety of the three...but its what I grew up using since a young child, so its overly familiar.

For a new build or new trigger, go with what you know and prefer. As long as you are comfortable and proficient with it, I think they all work as designed. If you pack a rifle through tight trails, especially if choked out with willow or alder, I will say the bolt lock is nice...or just turn it bolt in against the pack as I do in those tight areas.

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When hunting alone I typically carry with a round chambered and safety engaged (unless scope is detached on Springfield, then chamber is empty ... until I get the safety changed). In Africa I'm not hunting alone and chamber is usually empty until final stalk or when hunting buffalo. If chamber is empty, I will close the bolt with trigger depressed so the striker is down and rifle is "fired." That way the action cannot be accidentally opened by bolt handle catching on clothing, brush, etc and I don't need to have safety engaged to keep bolt locked. Just rack the bolt and fire.

I had 2 Interarms (one from VA and the other a Whitworth from England) and countless others on the same beloved action...First and Foremost: A Safety that WORKS 100%!!!!! Like most, 'love the way the 3-position safety looks (on the M98) but the only safeties I've had serious issue with were (the 3-position safety!!!) Always point the muzzle in a safe direction! So, the problems are 1) IF the factory or "gunsmith" (aka weekend warrior) have filed the trigger and/or sear, but not both...then the safety doesn't function properly. If you look at that rather trim, flat Interarms-style safety (push the low-profile lever foreward to fire and pull it back to make it SAFE.) It's VERY simple, it WORKS EVERY TIME...it IS not the greatest when it's FREEZING out (not because it doesn't function, it's just a little trim for gloves) but just pull the f'n gloves off for 3 seconds and make things happen! Notwithstanding the 3-position gunsmithing issues (failures), in the heat of the moment you may not know what position it's in (3 choices) and it might not go bang or eject, etc. Rem is great in that it's an all-in-one cassette package (including shotguns and pumps!) which the trigger and safety are separate (the safety-mechanical-always works!) lol even if it had an X-trigger which RIP'ed Rem. Stick with the factory safety-(like one free American was fond of saying for money, "it WORKS every time!" The Ruger tang safety was wonderful-not easy to operate with gloves on, but just take 'em off (or take the safety off if in a safe place...) I know PHs that NEVER activate the safety. NEVER. Especially when sleeping. Think about that! The original Interarms safety will NEVER open the bolt when it's in SAFE. Think about that too. Where I went to school, they were BIG on the KISS principle for engineering...Keep It Simple, Stupid! lol

Choupique said:

I like the low clearance flag safeties. Plenty room for a scope but maintains the bolt lock and firing pin block.

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Interesting. Who makes one of these? Not sure I've ever seen a 3-position Mauser flag safety with scope that didn't require a stepladder to see the crosshairs.

Ontario Hunter said:

Who makes one of these?

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As far as I know, timney is the only maker now. Mine looks very similar to this but doesnt have the screw in the center. I dont know who made it mine. Its 2 position, up cams the hammer back and locks the bolt, down is fire. Its an excellent safety.

I have this timney one in the box for another 96 that I installed and had to remove because the existing trigger safety interferes with it.

Choupique said:

As far as I know, timney is the only maker now. Mine looks very similar to this but doesnt have the screw in the center. I dont know who made it mine. Its 2 position, up cams the hammer back and locks the bolt, down is fire. Its an excellent safety.

I have this timney one in the box for another 96 that I installed and had to remove because the existing trigger safety interferes with it.

Mauser Safety - Low Profile

Best replacement triggers available

timneytriggers.com

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Ah ... the old Buhler style wing safety. Yours might be Dayton Traister variety if no screw in the center. Be aware that many of these 2-position wing safeties will disengage the safety and release the bolt if bolt handle is jiggled. Better check yours. I formerly had one on my Springfield and it had this problem. When I switched the gun to sling it on left shoulder, the bolt handle could get caught in my jacket pocket and I would unknowingly be carrying a loaded rifle off safe ... or the bolt had fallen open and cartridge disappeared. I have picked up more than one old rifle at gun shows with these safeties and demonstrated this issue ... much to the surprise (feigned?) of their vendors. These safeties cannot have any slop in the mechanism or they can be jiggled loose. I drilled and tapped a locking set screw through the top of my Springfield's bolt shroud and cut a groove for it in the shaft of the new left hand Mauser style wing safety I installed a few years ago. This eliminates any wandering of the safety against the striker.

I wasnt aware that is a potential issue. Ive never gotten after mine with a hammer or anything, but I cant get anything to move much with the safety on, aside from twisting the whole bolt and shroud and everything a tiny bit. Good to know for future endeavors though. I never really paid attention to how it actually works but now im going to have to figure it out.

The timney one appears to be well made and other than being 2 pieces all the important bits LOOK the same as my other one.