Cold burnishing of metal parts

Miletic

Miletic

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I have a Mauser M18 that use every day.
Don’t spare him a bit. It works perfectly.
But, on the part of the barrel that I often touch with sweaty hands, the black color has faded. It doesn't bother me at all because it's a working rifle, but I'm interested and want try can do the burnishing myself with a tool for that purpose. I bought this tool from Balsitol and will try it. Has anyone tried this and how did it go? Thank you
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Yes, I know the color will not be the same. I will have to try it on another piece of metal, just to see how the process goes, and after that I can treat the all barrel
farmer_john said:
It should work if you follow manufacturers instructions. Only possible issue is it may not be exact color.
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with this agent.
 
Miletic said:
Yes, I know the color will not be the same. I will have to try it on another piece of metal, just to see how the process goes, and after that I can treat the all barrel
with this agent.
Click to expand...
Another option. Not sure availability or cost in europe is cerecoat. They have some that look like bluing butbare very durable
 
farmer_john said:
Another option. Not sure availability or cost in europe is cerecoat. They have some that look like bluing butbare very durable
Click to expand...
I saw those blue funds several times, but I did not find them. I think this will be ok, I was just hoping that some of us have already tried it
 
I’ve not heard of that brand but I’ve used cold blueing to touch up rusty spots on May barrels. It’s not as durable against rust as hot blue but it’s better than bare chrome moly. It’s very easy to apply and the color is a little more electric blue than black blue, but if it were me I’d send it. Get some fine steel wool and apply. Wait a few minutes, rinse with water, steel wool the rust off, apply, wait a few, rinse repeat. After you’re satisfied with the results give it a good rinse and then oil wipe down and you’ll be good to go. The color is never perfect but from a few feet away a good application is hard to spot.

I really don’t like cerakote. It’s more rust resistant by far but it dings much easier than the blued metal and eventually can start flaking if the dings add up enough. Maybe you baby your rifle and that’s not an issue but my rifles go through a bit of hell with a combination of my hunting environments and admittedly the fact that I’m extremely clumsy.
 
The product name translates as "quick browning." Many antique arms were browned rather than blued. I would try cold bluing first.
 
Rifleman97 said:
I’ve not heard of that brand but I’ve used cold blueing to touch up rusty spots on May barrels. It’s not as durable against rust as hot blue but it’s better than bare chrome moly. It’s very easy to apply and the color is a little more electric blue than black blue, but if it were me I’d send it. Get some fine steel wool and apply. Wait a few minutes, rinse with water, steel wool the rust off, apply, wait a few, rinse repeat. After you’re satisfied with the results give it a good rinse and then oil wipe down and you’ll be good to go. The color is never perfect but from a few feet away a good application is hard to spot.

I really don’t like cerakote. It’s more rust resistant by far but it dings much easier than the blued metal and eventually can start flaking if the dings add up enough. Maybe you baby your rifle and that’s not an issue but my rifles go through a bit of hell with a combination of my hunting environments and admittedly the fact that I’m extremely clumsy.
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No rust at all. Just pure metal. I think this will work, but I will try it first on another similar metal piece :)
 
Cold blue solutions like that are a different chemical reaction to Nitro blueing or salt blueing and also different to rust blueing. They are thinner or not as deep as the other blueing methods and so you may have to do it every year or so but they Help cover up minor problems or just blend areas. I think it will be perfect for your purpose.
 
Nhoro said:
Cold blue solutions like that are a different chemical reaction to Nitro blueing or salt blueing and also different to rust blueing. They are thinner or not as deep as the other blueing methods and so you may have to do it every year or so but they Help cover up minor problems or just blend areas. I think it will be perfect for your purpose.
Click to expand...
I agree. I think this tool is good for what I want. I made the decision to smear the entire tube with this agent. The color will probably be uniform then
 
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