Case annealing and neck tension

LeftySixgun said:

Thanks Bob, I’ve got it set about 3/4 of a turn total after touching the shell holder. I’ll crimp one tomorrow and then pull it and check for a ring in the bullet. I do know that the collet is NOT closed up fully where I have it set right now.

Click to expand...

@LeftySixgun
Half to 3/4 turn should be just about spot on. That's all I use.
Bob

If you look at the top of the Lee die, you can see the 4 sections of the collet close as you pull the handle down on the press. If you see the gap between them disappear, you've probably put WAY to much crimp on the case. In my experience, only cast lead bullets in what were originally black powder cartridges should get that much crimp. Jacketed bullets maybe around half that much, or 50% of the gap should disappear and you should have moderate pressure on the press handle.

As with most reloading, just less than spark plug tight will do. If you feel the need for impact wrench tight, you're probably doing it wrong.

When you set up the die in the press, look at the space between those 4 sections of the collet. Set the die up so your press handle bottoms out with no more than about 15 pounds of pressure on the handle, and the gap between the collet sections is at about halfway between open and closed on the case neck.

This will give you a light crimp that stops bullets from being shoved back under recoil, and gives the even start pressure for great accuracy.

LeftySixgun said:

I didn’t want the 375 H&H Virgin case stretch thread to take a tangent. I’m new to the belted magnum cases. Is it a good idea to anneal the case necks on these larger bottle neck cartridges like the 300 & 375 H&H, the 416s…?

Also, is there an ideal amount of neck tension on these larger cases? If so, how much?
I deliberately fired 4-5 rounds while keeping the same single round in the magazine to see if recoil would set the bullet back, and it did! And by a pretty good bit, about .050” if I remember correctly. This was a 300gr RN FMJ by PPU, NO CANNELURE. Do you use a taper crimp die for this issue?

Click to expand...

Greetings. It is good to do annealing, but it is not necessary for large calibers like 375,416 .... It is important that the useful surface of the bullet (bearing surface) is the entire neck. Since the mentioned calibers are shot at shorter distances, only unnecessary attention is paid to the group of hits. If I were you, I would do a crimp because of the greater recoil. If possible, pull the bullet into the neck of the cartridge as long as its diameter, I think that after that there will be no need for crimping

steve white said:

I wonder if you could use the Lee factory crimper on unfired factory ammo just to be sure of neck tension? Any objections?

Click to expand...

You sure could, but it will only fix the crimp. Neck tension will not be affected.

Wyatt Smith said:

You sure could, but it will only fix the crimp. Neck tension will not be affected.

Click to expand...

Then what can be done for FACTORY cartridges which show inconsistent neck tension? I was shocked by an earlier post of how much difference there was while pulling bullets.

steve white said:

Then what can be done for FACTORY cartridges which show inconsistent neck tension? I was shocked by an earlier post of how much difference there was while pulling bullets.

Click to expand...

I guess you’d have to pull bullets, neck size and re-seat.

So what annealer are you gents using that anneal every or every other firing?

Nothing fancy here. I hold the case with my fingers and rotate over torch flame. When neck glows red I drop in a bucket of water.

I found the annealer from EP Integrations to be fairly easy and economical.

Schüler Jumbo said:

Nothing fancy here. I hold the case with my fingers and rotate over torch flame. When neck glows red I drop in a bucket of water.

Click to expand...

It’s all I’ve done for years. The water is not necessary for annealing , but I still do it as once you have accidentally picked up a hot case you will understand why.
Gumpy

Wildwillalaska said:

So what annealer are you gents using that anneal every or every other firing?

Click to expand...

I made up an induction annealing machine from bits bought off Aliexpress & Ebay. Cost me about AU$150. No setup, quick and consistent results. After using other methods for years, there is no going back.

Schüler Jumbo said:

Nothing fancy here. I hold the case with my fingers and rotate over torch flame. When neck glows red I drop in a bucket of water.

Click to expand...

@Schüler Jumbo
If it is glowing red you have just ruined your case by over heating it
I use 700 degree templaq and when that melts it's the right temp. Sure you lose one case but you know exactly how long to anneal for
Bob

Bob Nelson 35Whelen said:

@Schüler Jumbo
If it is glowing red you have just ruined your case by over heating it
I use 700 degree templaq and when that melts it's the right temp. Sure you lose one case but you know exactly how long to anneal for
Bob

Click to expand...

I use templaq also and have several sizes of deep wall sockets for different calibers, I chuck the socket adapter into a drill insert the case so neck and shoulder exposed, then into the torch flame and drop in water..

Bob Nelson 35Whelen said:

@Schüler Jumbo
If it is glowing red you have just ruined your case by over heating it
I use 700 degree templaq and when that melts it's the right temp. Sure you lose one case but you know exactly how long to anneal for
Bob

Click to expand...

Actually there’s no worries. Your fingers tell you waaaaaay before that it’s time to drop the case before the case head goes soft.