Question on Browning Belgium .375

Not all of the Belgian Browning Hi-Power rifles of the 60's had salt contaminated wood. The only safe way to be sure is to inspect the rifle closely. Look for rust around the cross bolts and the trigger guard and pull the action and inspect the underside of the action and bbl using proper gunsmith screw drivers.

When I was prepping for my 1st Safari, I already owned a lovely FN Browning Medallion Grade in 308. It was made in 1963 with the CRF action and the stock was salt free. I wanted a 416 Rigby but settled on a Safari Grade FN Browning in 375HH for a matched pair. The 375 was made in 1969 and being aware of the salt issue, I had it inspected before shipping it from Alaska to my local FFL. It was also salt free but...

At the time I was unaware that FN made these for Browning in both CRF and Push feed designs and mine turned out to be the Push Feed action. It shot great and looks fine but I wanted a CRF for Africa for the simple reason this was going to be my Buffalo rifle.

I took it to Africa once for a PG hunt but learned why the push feed is not the best option for Africa and other dry dusty climates. The dust and grit gets all over and into the rifles as the days go by. I disassembled my rifles every night and cleaned them with a dry cloth and canned air to try to keep them dust free but the little ejection plunger in the push feed got so gritty that it jammed up enough that it would barely eject a spent round until I cleaned it again. The CRF never missed a beat. That is the real difference but it also does not apply to most North American hunting unless you are down in dusty Texas, New Mexico or Arizona type climates. I bought a CRF rifle for DG hunting but kept my Belgian 375 because it is such a nice rifle.

P.S. The Push feed is not all bad. You can fill the mag with 4rds and then push down on the cartridges and slide in one more round to get a total of 5 into the rifle. You can single feed rounds into it one at a time by simply dropping them into the action and closing the bolt. Some bullet shapes may not feed well but this is also true of some CRF rifles. My Browning does not like the North Fork cup point solid at all. Just keep them clean and lube them very sparingly especially if you are hunting dry dusty places and they will serve you just fine. If you are hunting animals which will hunt you too or try to kill you if you piss them off, then spend the extra money to get a CRF rifle in a proper caliber and don't look back. It is cheaper then even on night in the intensive care ward and don't even get me started on the price of a decent funeral.

My matched FN Brownings are below. 375 is on the left and 308 on the right

FN Pair.jpg
 
I am looking at a Belgium made Browning Hi Power Rifle in .375. I know about the "Saltwood" years from 66-72 (mainly), and it scares the dickens out of me to lay down Medallion or Olympian money and get a saltwood gun. But I also know in the 67-68 time frame they switched from the the long (controlled-round feed) extractor to the short (push-feed) extractor. I have read on these very boards that the Long extractor is preferred for dangerous game due to needing a quick follow up for a potential charge and if you "short strike" the bolt during that tense time you are screwed. But my DG rifle is going to be my .416 Rigby. This Browning .375 will not be going to Africa. It will be more of a Large North America Rifle (Big bear, Moose, Elk, etc.) Much less stressful follow up shops and a shorter bolt action will actually load that second round quicker.
The one I am leaning towards buying is a later model, so I avoid the saltwood crisis but I get the shorter extractor.
Thoughts?
They also omitted the bolt guide in 1970.
 
Go for the later model. Saltwood is the bigger long term headache cracking, rusting metal underneath and dodging it is smart even if you have to take the short extractor.

For bear moose elk not charging DG like your .416, the push feed short extractor is plenty reliable and that shorter bolt throw will actually feel quicker on follow ups in real life. These Belgian FN Mausers are tanks when the wood is good. Just pull the barreled action out and inspect for any hidden rust before buying.
 
Go for the later model. Saltwood is the bigger long term headache cracking, rusting metal underneath and dodging it is smart even if you have to take the short extractor.

For bear moose elk not charging DG like your .416, the push feed short extractor is plenty reliable and that shorter bolt throw will actually feel quicker on follow ups in real life. These Belgian FN Mausers are tanks when the wood is good. Just pull the barreled action out and inspect for any hidden rust before buying.
That's what I did. Bought this one-
 
Be sure to cycle some rounds through the action of your newly purchased Browning FN ‘98’ Safari .375. I purchased one recently that looked pristine, had the “controlled round feed action” but needed $800 in custom magazine & feed ramp work to make it feed reliably. And another couple hundred $ to properly bed the two recoil lugs of the action in epoxy. Now $1000 and a couple months later it’s a relatively reliable & accurate rifle. But it didn’t start out that way from the factory when it was made way back in the early 1960’s.
 
Be sure to cycle some rounds through the action of your newly purchased Browning FN ‘98’ Safari .375. I purchased one recently that looked pristine, had the “controlled round feed action” but needed $800 in custom magazine & feed ramp work to make it feed reliably. And another couple hundred $ to properly bed the two recoil lugs of the action in epoxy. Now $1000 and a couple months later it’s a relatively reliable & accurate rifle. But it didn’t start out that way from the factory when it was made way back in the early 1960’s.
Be sure to cycle some rounds through the action of your newly purchased Browning FN ‘98’ Safari .375. I purchased one recently that looked pristine, had the “controlled round feed action” but needed $800 in custom magazine & feed ramp work to make it feed reliably. And another couple hundred $ to properly bed the two recoil lugs of the action in epoxy. Now $1000 and a couple months later it’s a relatively reliable & accurate rifle. But it didn’t start out that way from the factory when it was made way back in the early 1960’s.
Thanx for the heads up. Not that it matters, but mine isn't the Safari "trim". it's the Olympian. Might still have the same issue though... and mine is not CRF.
 
GREAT BUY. NEED PICTS OF IT LEANING ON HARVESTED GAME.
 

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