Help identifying a rifle

Tubby’s Canteen

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Good evening gentlemen I was hoping some of our Mauser experts can help identify a rifle I took in on trade today. Chambered in 6.x55 Swede. Appears to be either a carbine or short rifle of some kind. Unfortunately a set of vintage over and under rings seem to of been installed with both red locktite and some sort of apoxy under the base itself.
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Receiver is Carl Gustafs, i.e. Swedish Arsenal. Appears to be a sporterised M94. Stock shortened and recontoured. New brass bead foresight. The stock could do with being carefully relieved behind the tang and stabilising cracks with appropriate glue/epoxy. Should be a nice bush rifle, especially with a 129/131 grain projectile or a nice soft round nose projectile. Have fun.
 
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It could also be a M96, since the rear sight is the older type. M96 to M38 conversions were quite popular. If you remove the front scope ring will see the production year.
Also I believe it was cut and welded downwards. M96 had straight bolt handle, M38 bent but not with such a sharp edge.

 

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I wondered about the rear sight but do not have any images to hand, I think. Good bush rifle, all the same. Stock splitting similar to what I had on long-sold M38 which had barely been fired.
 
It could also be a M96, since the rear sight is the older type. M96 to M38 conversions were quite popular. If you remove the front scope ring will see the production year.
Also I believe it was cut and welded downwards. M96 had straight bolt handle, M38 bent but not with such a sharp edge.

That is going to be a delicate process both red locktite and some sort of apoxy was used to adhere it down
 
For practical purposes, with a sporterised, Swedish Mauser, all you NEED to know is: whether or not the action was made by Husqvarna. That is because the Husqvarna action has a harder surface and gunsmiths need to spot-anneal before drilling screw holes. Year dates are nice to know BUT not worth removing ring-mount bases unless the holes were drilled out of line.
 
Thinking out loud here. Perhaps remove the stock and bolt. Then immerse the receiver in acetone. Let it soak overnight. That should turn the epoxy and locktite into mush. I don't believe acetone will harm metal or parkerized finish. Might want to do a test first.

Those peek-a-boo rings/bases are a damn abomination.
 
Thinking out loud here. Perhaps remove the stock and bolt. Then immerse the receiver in acetone. Let it soak overnight. That should turn the epoxy and locktite into mush. I don't believe acetone will harm metal or parkerized finish. Might want to do a test first.
It would strip blueing , we use it in marine industries for a stripper on polyester resins and polyurethane finishes.
 
I’ll probably just end up scopeing it and moving it at the next gun show as it doesn’t seem to have the value other surplus rifles do if restocked into military configuration. I appreciate the help identifying. I’ve often commented the amount of knowledge contained on this forum is astonishing.
 
Thinking out loud here. Perhaps remove the stock and bolt. Then immerse the receiver in acetone. Let it soak overnight. That should turn the epoxy and locktite into mush. I don't believe acetone will harm metal or parkerized finish. Might want to do a test first.

Those peek-a-boo rings/bases are a damn abomination.
They are an abomination. I used to hunt with a guy who could neck shoot a possum from 30 yards standing--with an open-sighted Norinco JW15--whilst someone else was holding a spotlight. He missed a red spiker at maybe 50 metres because he had mounted a similar set of ringmounts on his Model 96.
 
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It would strip blueing , we use it in marine industries for a stripper on polyester resins and polyurethane finishes.
Hmmm. I have a junker P14 in the safe. Good for a test. I know acetone will strip plastic. That's why I suggested it. But bluing isn't plastic or resin based. Parkerized is essentially etching the metal. I'd be surprised if acetone does anything to it.
 
I should have noticed the low serial number and the initials of the inspection officer.
What you have is a sporterized M1894 carabine. I believe it was produced around 1894-1895 and is was inspected and accepted in service by Captain Olof Darling Gibson (OG).
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A hair dryer to heat up loctite works pretty well in my experience, but I am not sure if it would help at all with the epoxy.
 
Scoped it today and got it ready for sale at the next gun show
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It's a M94 or M96 Swedish Mauser. You may find that simply warming it up with a heat gun will soften the Loctite and epoxy and careful work with a turn screw will get the scope rings off.
 

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