Ruger m77 accuracy issues

Brickman301

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Just posting this as maybe this can help others out.

A few months ago I purchased a Ruger M77 ii in 30-06. I’ve shot it quite a bit, with different ammo, and nothing I’ve shot have been that accurate. I was getting frustrated, as nothing shot better than 3 1/2” groups at 100 yards, and maybe 1 1/2” at 50 yards. This was all with the rifle shooting from a bag from the bench.
Well this past weekend, I started to investigate why.
It has a laminated stock, and it was touching the barrel. I free floated the barrel went to the range, and the groups improved a little, but still not great. After returning I got on a few forums, and seen people saying that sometimes the magazine box could be binding the action. I used a jeweler’s file to remove some of the material on the bottom of the magazine box where the action screws hold the magazine box down. Once the mag box was relived, the magazine box could move slightly up and down and back and forth. I tighten down the action screws to spec, and headed to the range.
This little trick made all the difference. I shot Winchester 180 grain and federal 150 grain ammo and the both shot to 1” to 1 1/4” groups at 100 yards.

Hard to explain in writing, but I hope everyone can understand. If not, I’ll try to post some pictures of what I did.
Hopefully, this post helps someone else out.
 
Yep. Well documented problem on Ruger forums. The magazine box can create a false pillar. I’ve dealt with that issue with two of my M77s. Other than poor accuracy, another indication of the box not fitting well is the floor plate release latch doesn’t operate as it should.
 
Just posting this as maybe this can help others out.

A few months ago I purchased a Ruger M77 ii in 30-06. I’ve shot it quite a bit, with different ammo, and nothing I’ve shot have been that accurate. I was getting frustrated, as nothing shot better than 3 1/2” groups at 100 yards, and maybe 1 1/2” at 50 yards. This was all with the rifle shooting from a bag from the bench.
Well this past weekend, I started to investigate why.
It has a laminated stock, and it was touching the barrel. I free floated the barrel went to the range, and the groups improved a little, but still not great. After returning I got on a few forums, and seen people saying that sometimes the magazine box could be binding the action. I used a jeweler’s file to remove some of the material on the bottom of the magazine box where the action screws hold the magazine box down. Once the mag box was relived, the magazine box could move slightly up and down and back and forth. I tighten down the action screws to spec, and headed to the range.
This little trick made all the difference. I shot Winchester 180 grain and federal 150 grain ammo and the both shot to 1” to 1 1/4” groups at 100 yards.

Hard to explain in writing, but I hope everyone can understand. If not, I’ll try to post some pictures of what I did.
Hopefully, this post helps someone else out.
One thing that could help you tighten those groups would be to torque the front action screw to 65in/lbs the second to 45in/lbs and then just slightly over hand tight on the bottom screw behind the trigger guard.

Ruger’s 90in/lbs torque spec is absolutely ridiculous, a lot of people notice improved accuracy once doing that. Myself included.
 
Not many people think about the magazine box being bound up, but it’s a regular gremlin.
Yeah, I never thought about it before. Made total sense, once I thought about it.
Yep. Well documented problem on Ruger forums. The magazine box can create a false pillar. I’ve dealt with that issue with two of my M77s. Other than poor accuracy, another indication of the box not fitting well is the floor plate release latch doesn’t operate as it should.
That’s one of the forums where I read about this issue. My release latch, always seemed to function properly, even before I did this “mod”.
 
One thing that could help you tighten those groups would be to torque the front action screw to 65in/lbs the second to 45in/lbs and then just slightly over hand tight on the bottom screw behind the trigger guard.

Ruger’s 90in/lbs torque spec is absolutely ridiculous, a lot of people notice improved accuracy once doing that. Myself included.
You are correct, in my post I said I tighten them to spec, but I misspoke. My torque screw driver tops out at 70 inch pounds. That’s what I set the front action to. The rear screw is set at 50ish, as that’s what I seen recommended on one of the forums I read. I did see one video from Ruger stating 90 inch pounds. I’m not sure how you would even get that, with just a flat blade screw head. 70 was tough enough.
 
You are correct, in my post I said I tighten them to spec, but I misspoke. My torque screw driver tops out at 70 inch pounds. That’s what I set the front action to. The rear screw is set at 50ish, as that’s what I seen recommended on one of the forums I read. I did see one video from Ruger stating 90 inch pounds. I’m not sure how you would even get that, with just a flat blade screw head. 70 was tough enough.
I bought the upgraded Allen head screws from Midway USA so I could get the higher torque
 
Sounds like you’ve got a good shooter now.
I’m Very happy now, but it was a frustrating experience getting there. There is a river that runs right along the rifle range where i shoot. I teased the wife when i left Monday after dinner, that if that rifle wouldn’t group, I was throwing it in the river! :LOL:

I don’t get frustrated very easily or even very often, but this rifle was trying me, to say the least.
 
You are correct, in my post I said I tighten them to spec, but I misspoke. My torque screw driver tops out at 70 inch pounds. That’s what I set the front action to. The rear screw is set at 50ish, as that’s what I seen recommended on one of the forums I read. I did see one video from Ruger stating 90 inch pounds. I’m not sure how you would even get that, with just a flat blade screw head. 70 was tough enough.
I have no idea how they do it, I feel like on their wooden stocks it would lead to splits/cracks being torqued to their factory settings. I understand their thought process with that angled screw being torqued higher but in practice it doesn’t seem to do anything but cause problems.
 
My wife has an M77 in 30-06 with a laminate stock. It's her go-to for just about everything when we're hunting. I've always said that there may be more than one right answer, but 30-06 is never the wrong answer.
It's not a precision rifle, but I can get sub-MOA groups out of it with good handloads. I just took hers out this morning to do some load development testing for our Africa trip next year. Best group was .5".
 
Just posting this as maybe this can help others out.

A few months ago I purchased a Ruger M77 ii in 30-06. I’ve shot it quite a bit, with different ammo, and nothing I’ve shot have been that accurate. I was getting frustrated, as nothing shot better than 3 1/2” groups at 100 yards, and maybe 1 1/2” at 50 yards. This was all with the rifle shooting from a bag from the bench.
Well this past weekend, I started to investigate why.
It has a laminated stock, and it was touching the barrel. I free floated the barrel went to the range, and the groups improved a little, but still not great. After returning I got on a few forums, and seen people saying that sometimes the magazine box could be binding the action. I used a jeweler’s file to remove some of the material on the bottom of the magazine box where the action screws hold the magazine box down. Once the mag box was relived, the magazine box could move slightly up and down and back and forth. I tighten down the action screws to spec, and headed to the range.
This little trick made all the difference. I shot Winchester 180 grain and federal 150 grain ammo and the both shot to 1” to 1 1/4” groups at 100 yards.
Hard to explain in writing, but I hope everyone can understand. If not, I’ll try to post some pictures of what I did. Hopefully, this post helps someone else out.
Did you go thru the correct barrel break-in procedure back when it was new? That aids accuracy as well.
 
Rugers are known for toughness and durability, not extreme accuracy.
Their RSM big bores are some of the best.
 
Well I've gone and made things worse :ROFLMAO:
I was tinkering at the range and thought I'd try the torque screw recommendations, front screw i got to 65 in lbs but trying to get 45 on the rear action screw the trigger guard metal broke. Now I'm no gunsmith guys, but I thought i could torque a screw! Any ideas where i went wrong?

I will note, the screws had some wear on them like they've been subjected to some amateur smithing before (gun was bought used). And both action screws were not very tight at all to begin with.
Either way, I'm now shopping for a trigger guard.
20260705_092014.jpg
 
Well I've gone and made things worse :ROFLMAO:
I was tinkering at the range and thought I'd try the torque screw recommendations, front screw i got to 65 in lbs but trying to get 45 on the rear action screw the trigger guard metal broke. Now I'm no gunsmith guys, but I thought i could torque a screw! Any ideas where i went wrong?

I will note, the screws had some wear on them like they've been subjected to some amateur smithing before (gun was bought used). And both action screws were not very tight at all to begin with.
Either way, I'm now shopping for a trigger guard.
View attachment 774847
Rear screw instructions were slightly over hand tight, not 45in/lbs.

65, 45, just over hand tight. Your rifle does have three screws on the bottom, correct?
 

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