Price Check?

Last couple I've seen in 404 were listed between $2000-$2500., in really nice condition. If it's been a safe queen and still have the original box, it might go higher for a true collector. For anyone else, you can get a donor rifle and rebarrel at that price point.

There is an issue with the Factory offered 404Jeffery. Some of the barrel in the run were NOT true 0.423 barrels. If you slug the barrel and it measures true, you'd be good to go. If it's not a true 0.423, I doubt anyone would want it besides a collector.
 
Last couple I've seen in 404 were listed between $2000-$2500., in really nice condition. If it's been a safe queen and still have the original box, it might go higher for a true collector. For anyone else, you can get a donor rifle and rebarrel at that price point.

There is an issue with the Factory offered 404Jeffery. Some of the barrel in the run were NOT true 0.423 barrels. If you slug the barrel and it measures true, you'd be good to go. If it's not a true 0.423, I doubt anyone would want it besides a collector.

I hate slugging barrels because the lead can bounce back and it generally shows tight spots or loose spots erratically.

a simple way to check is pin gauges. Drop them through until one won’t go. Drop it in the other way and see if it’s just as tight or if there is one tight spot overall.

I imagine an astute Ruger #1 tinkerer could get a 404 to shoot comfortably with the right scope, rings, and weight added to the stock.

In a 10.5lb gun you’re at a pleasant 42lbs of recoil. At 8.5lbs with irons in a Ruger you’d be closer to a miserable 60lbs.
 
It was my understanding that chamber size was the issue with those, not the barrels. Maybe both?
 

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