bedding in progress... when to peak?

[clockwork_7mm_gator]

Wrapped the surgical tubing tonight at 9pm EST. Assuming my mix of hardener and bedrock was close enough, and assuming I didn't just mechanically lock the rifle*, the question now is how long to wait?

Miles Gilbert kit instructions say 24 hours, but lots of tutorials I watched said 8 to 12 to 16.

Thoughts?

* if this happens it's defective release agent... because Lord knows I went through some.

 

[Hogpatrol]

If you followed the ratio properly, 24 hours it'll be cured. Release agent I use is clear paste wax shoe polish but there are others that work just as well.

 

[clockwork_7mm_gator]

Hog - the kit came with a liquid agent, so I used that. I think the ratio was pretty darn close... but hard to nail *precisely* 2.25 teaspoons with the bedrock... it's consistency just makes it hard.

 

[Hogpatrol]

I've used the supplied liquid with kits before I started using Devcon 10110 with paste wax. I weigh the two parts to get the correct ratio. Have also tried Marine Tex but went back to Devcon.

 

[Wyatt Smith]

Why rush it. Wait 24.

 

[fourfive8]

If it is reasonably warm, about 24 hours should be plenty. I have used a few of the Bedrock kits and the mix ratio, unless mistaken, is actually very simple at 1:1, resin to hardener. You can just eyeball it as it has a fairly wide tolerance. The only messy part of any of these is the "aggregate" which in the case of the Bedrock product is the micro balloon powder which is like a super fine, "puffed" ceramic dust or something. But I will say I like the "balloons" better than the fiber glass flocking that comes (or did) with the original old Micro bed kits- not to mention that odd mix ratio that product uses. It takes a little time for the balloon powder to "wet" and mix with the compound. Just mix it in slowly a little at a time while mixing the hardener and resin. I don't overdo the micro balloons so have ended up with a fairly good quantity in a few bottles after the hardener and resin have been used up in each kit. For mixing, I use a long Popsicle stick in a shallow plastic cup. And slowly mix in the coloring agent during the process until satisfied with the match.... such as that may be. Difficult to get an exact match to any one wood color.

I dab the compound into the stock areas (like honey dipping) using a Popsicle stick. Have to eyeball the amounts so good fill, distribution are balanced against too much ooze out. Anyway good luck! Yes- a mechanical lock is your biggest enemy with no worries about epoxy adhesion if released agent has been properly used.

For release agents- Johnson's paste wax is the least expensive of the "waxes" that work well. Shoe polish works. Renaissance Micro Crystalline wax works. Car wax work.... so on, etc.

 

[clockwork_7mm_gator]

UPDATE: I waited the full 24. A little stubborn, but one pop with a rubber mallet and it freed up. The tang bedded perfectly. The lug area is a B+/A-. The job is accomplished, but it's not the most elegant thing you've ever seen. Two tiny (pinhead) areas that didn't fill... I'm assuming that was trapped air? Anyhow, floated the barrel tonight all the way down to the end of the chamber where the bedding starts. This is shaping up to be one that'll get passed down to the kiddos. (Can't be many kids who inherit a 7x64 on a Mauser action with double set triggers, right? I keep telling myself, anyway.)

Thanks again for all the help, gents.

 

[Wyatt Smith]

Great!

 

[fourfive8]

Yes, super good news! And report any change to group size or POI when you shoot it again.

 

[fourfive8]

You can fill in the voids pretty easily. Use a Dremel with small ball bit and roughen and true up the voids. Apply more release to proper areas. Mix another small batch of compound and very carefully dab, with a toothpick or similar, an appropriate quantity of compound into the voids. You want to be very close to exact amount or slightly less so you won't change the basic bed level. Once all done, emery board nail files or small files and wood dowels wrapped in 200 +/- grit work well for dressing edges back to correct contour.

 

[RayAtkinson]

once you get your compound in the inletting, use a hair dryer and warm the glass compound, before setting the barrel and action, no more bubbles or missed areas...gets you a very pretty job..as you warm the compound it will more or less change consistency in color, you will see what I mean when you do it...