What to do with a 1917

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I have a 1917 Enfield, I won off gunbroker a while back. It was made in 1918, stock cut back, missing front sight and front sight protectors, but rear sight and ears are present. It’s rough, finish is largely worn/patinaed, maybe even pitted a place or two. It would make a good knock around gun with the front sight perhaps, but my dilemma is that the barrel is practically smooth bore, with rifling barely visible. Originally thought barrel might be fouled, but I think it is genuinely that worn. Can’t decide whether to re-barrel in .30-06 from the CMP, go for a larger caliber barrel, or have the existing barrel re-chambered larger.
 
The condition of the bolt locking lugs, and their seats in the receiver are a critical factor, but it's hard for most of us to tell until the barrel is taken off.

If these are in good shape, I'd build a large caliber Dangerous Game rifle on the receiver. Those are as strong and stout as you'll find, and they'll stand up to the biggest calibers.

The bolt face and extractor will need to be opened up, but most competent rifle smiths know how to do it.

Anything from a .458 Lott to a 505 Gibbs and larger has been built on the 1914/1917.
 
I think if I did that, I would want to do it up in a Remington model 30 style, which would mean lopping off that rear set of “ears”. I kind of hate to do that with this one, since they are a little more rare with the sight protectors though the final product you describe would be a very neat piece to have.
 
.35 Whelen is your answer. New barrel and maybe a new stock too. Mine is built on a WW2 era 03/A3. These old .30-06 battle rifles, with barrels worn out and stocks warped or cracked, have great actions to build from and transform into a .35 Whelen that is both affordable and practical.
 
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I have a 1917 Enfield, I won off gunbroker a while back. It was made in 1918, stock cut back, missing front sight and front sight protectors, but rear sight and ears are present. It’s rough, finish is largely worn/patinaed, maybe even pitted a place or two. It would make a good knock around gun with the front sight perhaps, but my dilemma is that the barrel is practically smooth bore, with rifling barely visible. Originally thought barrel might be fouled, but I think it is genuinely that worn. Can’t decide whether to re-barrel in .30-06 from the CMP, go for a larger caliber barrel, or have the existing barrel re-chambered larger.
458 Lott would be my choice if the action is sound...
 
If you want to keep it in the military kinda issue look rebarrel into 30/06.

If not, pull the barrel, use the stock for a nice fire, and rebuild into a custom you have always wanted.
 
I have a bare 1917 action sitting in my gun safe and I can take a picture to show you what to look for with the locking lug seats, etc. Might not get to it till Friday though.
 
I have them in 3006,300wby, 416wby, had a 460wby, 2 505s and last but not least 585 Nyati. They seem to work fine.
 
404 Jeffery

IMG_0138.jpeg


IMG_0139.jpeg
 
My proposition- Rebarrel it to .500 Jeffery. Get yourself a Douglas Premium barrel. They make the best big bore rifle barrels, in my humble opinion.
 
This is the view into the front of the receiver of my 1917. Firing pin in the center of the bolt, extractor on the left, ejector slot on the right of the picture, and of course our left and right locking lugs.
IMG_20250801_173649560.jpg
This next picture is with the bolt handle turned down, and the locking lugs in their locked position ready for firing. The claw extractor remains in its place, but the left locking lug has rotated to be on top, the right locking lug has rotated down.
IMG_20250801_173606340.jpg

This last picture is with the bolt retracted to it's rearmost position in the receiver. The raceway slots for the left and right locking lug are clearly visible. The two slightly shiny spots are where the lugs turn into their locking shoulders or seats. If these areas have a divit or dished appearance to them, it is a sure indication that the locking lugs have been beaten backwards into their shoulders, and the rifle will not properly headspace. Installing a new barrel will not fix this.
IMG_20250801_173728493.jpg

This receiver is in great shape and there is very little indication of headspace issues.

There are other important things while we discuss locking bolt lugs, and their shoulders in the receiver. The backside of each locking lug should always be lubricated with a high quality gun grease to prevent wear between the lugs and their seats. If these surfaces wear, headspace (the distance from the bolt face/rear of the cartridge, to the datum line on the shoulder of the cartridge) can open up enough that cases split, and a dangerous condition exists that can wreck the gun, and of course injure the shooter.
 
I have a 1917 Enfield, I won off gunbroker a while back. It was made in 1918, stock cut back, missing front sight and front sight protectors, but rear sight and ears are present. It’s rough, finish is largely worn/patinaed, maybe even pitted a place or two. It would make a good knock around gun with the front sight perhaps, but my dilemma is that the barrel is practically smooth bore, with rifling barely visible. Originally thought barrel might be fouled, but I think it is genuinely that worn. Can’t decide whether to re-barrel in .30-06 from the CMP, go for a larger caliber barrel, or have the existing barrel re-chambered larger.
@Humphrey_Ploughjogger
There's only INE THING to go with your M17.
Rebarrel it and turn it into a bespoke 35 Whelen or 25-06.
Bob
20200131_113934.jpg

The on on the left is a M17 in 35 Whelen AI
On the right a P14 in my own design fast 25 cal
 
I want to thank everyone for so many great ideas. I’m leaning towards a re-barrel of this one. Excuse my ignorance of the subject, but I have never debarred a rifle before, so I’m going to have it professionally done. Do I now need to find a maker who does dedicated barrels for a 1917 in the caliber I choose, or are barrels a lot more interchangeable than I have always thought?
 
Removing the military barrel can be a chore. Find a gunsmith who knows how to do this. Often requires rebating the receiver just a bit where the barrel attaches. Some barrel makers do not thread or ream their stuff, leaving it to the gunsmith to do that (and assume responsibility/liability). Difficulty in finding barrel maker depends a lot on your caliber choice.
 
There are pre fit barrels for common rifles like yours. Some are short chambered so that you can take your old barrel off, install the new barrel and torque to spec, then use a chamber reamer to finish the last few thousandths of an inch. I've seen them for many rifles including yours, but only in the original 30-06 caliber.

If you want another caliber, it would be an easy barrel swap for a gunsmith. It will have to be one that is .473 dia at the base, because the bolt face, extractor and ejector are all built for that size cartridge case.

A conversion to a larger cartridge case is no problem, but all of the above will require work by a gunsmith familiar with this kind of work, and that = money.

The wonderful thing about the action you have, is that you can spend as much or as little as you like and still end up with a great rifle. Mostly depends on how much you are willing to do yourself.
 

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