Question for Brno 602 Owners

Earle

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I recently acquired a 602 chambered (rechambered?0 in 416 Rigby. The rifle arrived with the stock and barreled action separated, for shipping ease i assume. I quickly discovered the forend screw and nut were missing. I addressed this in another thread, but have sourced the needed parts.
My question is: when re-assembling the rifle, is there a particular order that the three screws need to be tightened in? The front connecting screw, the rear connecting screw and the forend screw. i will mention that all three areas are epoxy bedded. Further, is there any specific torque settings for the various screws, or because of the bedding should they be "snug". Thanks in advance for any info, as i would like to get it right the first time.
 
The two action screws should be tightened first, then snug down the forend screw. I've never seen a specific torque recommendation for the action screws.
 
I suggest also, using a thread locker when assembling.
 

This might answer most of your concerns
 
Thanks guy's. Never had to re-assemble a rifle with the forend screw before, so i wanted to make sure before proceeding
The two action screws should be tightened first, then snug down the forend screw. I've never seen a specific torque recommendation for the action screws.

I suggest also, using a thread locker when assembling.


This might answer most of your concerns
 
Pre-64 Win 70s have the forward barrel screw. Some have used it for fine tuning the barrel harmonics in their M70s. I think O'Connor had a rule of thumb for how tight he would set it to begin with. Various Win M 52 models have that screw in the later sporter model or a pair of opposing support screws used for the purpose of heavy barrel support and harmonics tuning.

On the 602, I think, first, tighten down the main action screws good and snug but not to the point of breaking them or crushing wood! Then snug down the forward barrel screw tight enough it won't work it's way out. That seems to work fine on the one in 375 HH I have. Its nut floats back and forth in a dovetail/raceway in the rib on bottom of barrel. For action screws, I've seen factory recommendation numbers ranging from maybe 20-40 inch pounds. No matter the recommended numbers, I would hesitate going too tight. Really it's a feel thing and may depend on screw size, type of wood, if the stock is synthetic, if it is bedded or pillar bedded, etc.
 
Last edited:
Thank you for your reply. What i did was take up the slack in all three screws, then snug up the two action screws before the forend screw. Then i tightened the action screws just
Pre-64 Win 70s have the forward barrel screw. Some have used it for fine tuning the barrel harmonics in their M70s. I think O'Connor had a rule of thumb for how tight he would set it to begin with. Various Win M 52 models have that screw in the later sporter model or a pair of opposing support screws used for the purpose of heavy barrel support and harmonics tuning.

On the 602, I think, first, tighten down the main action screws good and snug but not to the point of breaking them or crushing wood! Then snug down the forward barrel screw tight enough it won't work it's way out. That seems to work fine on the one in 375 HH I have. Its nut floats back and forth in a dovetail/raceway in the rib on bottom of barrel. For action screws, I've seen factory recommendation numbers ranging from maybe 20-40 inch pounds. No matter the recommended numbers, I would hesitate going too tight. Really it's a feel thing and may depend on screw size, type of wood, if the stock is synthetic, if it is bedded or pillar bedded, etc.

till they felt solid. Didn't take much as the rifle is fully bedded. Will try it at the range tomorrow.
 

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