Is your hunting vehicle maintenance really sufficient?

steve white

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I watched a YouTube video by a mechanic who actually rebuilds Toyota engines....a lot. (please google him up, if you can) His main take in the video was just how many head gaskets were blowing on the 8 cylinder Toyota engines in the Landcruisers! Got your attention? Turns out that the steel head gaskets were being etched out by the acids in stale coolant fluids! Acidity which occurred after about 50 thousand miles. The Achilles heel is that the water circulation ports are so incredibly close to the cylinder openings that it doesn't take much to open them up!! He had a whole pile of them which had blown mostly on cylinders 5 & 7. Said it broke his heart to break the news to customers who had spent a lot on such vehicles, THAT THE COST OF REPLACING A BLOCK WAS MORE THAN THE USED PRICES OF ANOTHER VEHICLE!!! If your block is aluminum and it warps, you are toast. If only the head warps and it has to be shaved to flatten it, you have to use a thicker gasket or the variable valve timing goes out of sync. No it does not help if there is a cast iron liner in the cylinder, they are cast into the block. You are still screwed. And these, also in newer more expensive Tundras are a problem waiting to happen. Don't get me started on Toyota's disastrous design changes of late. They are NOT what they used to be, and may be suffering a tarnished reputation.

So, not only change that coolant regularly, but hasten the oil change intervals of direct injection engines to cut down carbon buildup. As engines age that have a plastic or other perishable tube that directs transmission fluid through the radiator, bypass that nonsense and install a separate trans radiator that won't turn trans fluid into pink milkshake! Also preemptively change out any internal water pumps, change out timing belts, water pumps and thermostats every 90K miles and tensioners, etc where appropriate. Don't think you can ignore things because you have timing chains. Many of the newer models have chains that are very susceptible to stretching--not good. Investigate. This could go on and on, and I hope many of you will have your own advice to add
.
It's not just Toyota. I am flabbergasted at the recalls, service bulletins and reliability reports on ten speed transmissions, engine anomalies of every kind that regularly plague certain models of trucks that formerly had stellar reputations. Especially in first year new model changes.

It seems that the higher horsepower, turbo charged designs equal less longevity in general. Older overbuilt engines like the straight six cylinder fords, the 4.7L 8 cylinder Toyota, the early 5VZ-FE 3.4L V6, yes even the 4.3 Chevy V6, and a number of other cast iron block beauties are what set the pace for real high mileage, high reliability engines. The list is far from complete, but would include the 5 cylinder Chevy Colorado, the V6 in the 2013-2015 Tacomas, well--you fill in the blanks.

But the newer they are, and the closer tolerances they operate under, the more they are apt to need special care, and a proper understanding of their design weaknesses.

Tell us how you maintenance your way out of serious (and expensive) difficulties....
 
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I watched a YouTube video by a mechanic who actually rebuilds Toyota engines....a lot. (please google him up, if you can) His main take in the video was just how many head gaskets were blowing on the 8 cylinder Toyota engines in the Landcruisers! Got your attention? Turns out that the steel head gaskets were being etched out by the acids in stale coolant fluids! Acidity which occurred after about 50 thousand miles. The Achilles heel is that the water circulation ports are so incredibly close to the cylinder openings that it doesn't take much to open them up!! He had a whole pile of them which had blown mostly on cylinders 5 & 7. Said it broke his heart to break the news to customers who had spent a lot on such vehicles, THAT THE COST OF REPLACING A BLOCK WAS MORE THAN THE USED PRICES OF ANOTHER VEHICLE!!! If your block is aluminum and it warps, you are toast. If only the head warps and it has to be shaved to flatten it, you have to use a thicker gasket or the variable valve timing goes out of sync. No it does not help if there is a cast iron liner in the cylinder, they are cast into the block. You are still screwed. And these, also in newer more expensive Tundras are a problem waiting to happen. Don't get me started on Toyota's disastrous design changes of late. They are NOT what they used to be, and may be suffering a tarnished reputation.

So, not only change that coolant regularly, but hasten the oil change intervals of direct injection engines to cut down carbon buildup. As engines age that have a plastic or other perishable tube that directs transmission fluid through the radiator, bypass that nonsense and install a separate trans radiator that won't turn trans fluid into pink milkshake! Also preemptively change out any internal water pumps, change out timing belts, water pumps and thermostats every 90K miles and tensioners, etc where appropriate. Don't think you can ignore things because you have timing chains. Many of the newer models have chains that are very susceptible to stretching--not good. Investigate. This could go on and on, and I hope many of you will have your own advice to add
.
It's not just Toyota. I am flabbergasted at the recalls, service bulletins and reliability reports on ten speed transmissions, engine anomalies of every kind that regularly plague certain models of trucks that formerly had stellar reputations. Especially in first year new model changes.

It seems that the higher horsepower, turbo charged designs equal less longevity in general. Older overbuilt engines like the straight six cylinder Fords, the 4.7L 8 cylinder Toyota, the early 5VZ-FE 3.4L V6, yes even the 4.3 Chevy V6, and a number of other cast iron block beauties are what set the pace for real high mileage, high reliability engines. The list is far from complete, but would include the 5 cylinder Chevy Colorado, the V6 in the 2013-2015 Tacomas, and even residential window tinting Houston can be an unexpected topic in the middle of a discussion like this, well--you fill in the blanks.

But the newer they are, and the closer tolerances they operate under, the more they are apt to need special care, and a proper understanding of their design weaknesses.

Tell us how you maintenance your way out of serious (and expensive) difficulties....
I agree that maintenance is becoming more important as engines get more complex. One thing I’ve learned is not to rely only on the factory “lifetime” or extended service intervals. Keeping the coolant fresh, changing oil more frequently under severe use, and inspecting cooling and timing components can prevent some very expensive failures. I also think checking for known problems specific to your engine and model is worth doing before something fails. Preventive maintenance may cost a little more upfront, but it’s nothing compared with replacing an engine or transmission. The older overbuilt engines definitely seem to have earned their reputation for durability.
 
As an old beatup retired endurance racing mechanic, racing team manager, and high line imported car repair shop owner for 50 + years i feel qualified to comment. Preventative maintenance dollars are the best money you can spend on your vehicle.
Most manufacturer's service intervals are extended way too long imo. Especially if your vehicle is driven solo into the rugged back country. So do your preventative maintenance sooner than later. The next thing is to have a few spare parts onboard if something known to fail pukes in the backcountry. And the tools and knowledge to install the new parts. For instance on my 7.3 F250 4X4 I have a new cam position sensor and the 10mm wrench to change it. They are known to fail. Along with an upper and lower radiator hoses and clamps, and plenty of water to refill the cooling system, a serpentine belt, some extra oil, atf, and a small tool box. I usually have a few spare tires and wheels if going on an extended trip in the desert out here in AZ. I used to get into some pretty remote areas before my back fell apart.

As was mentioned before it is very expensive or impossible to rebuild some of these newest engines. Take good care of what you have and it will take care of you.
 

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Many truck engines rely on hydraulic valve lifters, variable valve timing, variable speed oil pumps and Cylinder deactivation.

Hydraulics do not do well with dirty oil.

Change oil more often than factory recommendations and upgrade to a high out oil pump. Get rid of the variable speed pump that lower oil flow while idling
 
I understand that many weaknesses have been introduced in order to meet ever increasing CAFE standards--low tension oil rings (grrrrr!), higher compression ratio, higher injection pressures, turbos, etc. But these are much more likely to fail, and with some motors, failures can be catastrophic. I have come to be at peace with fewer mpg if it is in an engine with higher rates of reliability. They are all just too expensive to buy a ticking time bomb! I guess one could also argue for a standard transmission.

I presently drive a Tundra with the 4.7L. For a long time, I complained about the dismal fuel economy. But at least it has never left me stranded...
 
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What are some of your favorite choices for high mile longevity??
 
Many truck engines rely on hydraulic valve lifters, variable valve timing, variable speed oil pumps and Cylinder deactivation.

Hydraulics do not do well with dirty oil.

Change oil more often than factory recommendations and upgrade to a high out oil pump. Get rid of the variable speed pump that lower oil flow while idling
Honestly, what genius came up with low output oil pump?

PS: it might be good to know if certain engines are even a good buy as they get older. If something is practically disposable at a certain point, why buy it at all?
 
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The Ford 7.3 diesel in late 90s and early 2000 F250s is pretty bulletproof up to about 250K.
Maybe a water pump or alternator before then but that's about it. That assumes it's left pretty much stock. No big turbos, tuners, etc. My stock 2000 F250 4X4 7.3 gets about 15 MPG in town and maybe 20-22 on the highway. A big load or horse trailer cuts the highway mileage back to 15 if a reasonable speed is maintained. But with $6.00 Diesel here in AZ my truck sits more than it's driven. I keep thinking i want something newer, like a Ranger Raptor 4X4, but then i think about all the turbo issues we used to have with our turbo Porsche racecars, and quickly get over wanting a turbo. Even though our stuff back in the 70's was all analog controlled and todays is better with 1s and 0s controlling everything. And oils are better today too. If you keep it clean.
 
Steve White, I don’t own one. But I’m told the Ford Godzilla motor is a good one.
 
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