Recent content by Gomer

I would much rather buy what I have in mind, rather than have it built. Mainly because I like fairly plain rifles and the cost of a rebarrel would be about the same as buying a nice factory rifle. I have twin M70 featherweights in 257 Roberts and 7x57 Mauser. The 257 is about to get...

Their website is super easy. I spend most if my disposable income at Eurooptic. Just picked up a 1-6x24 Trijicon Accupoint with German #4 for my 375.

I hope 375 Ruger endures. I just bought one. But, just in case, I also bought 400 pieces of brass. Oddly enough, the brass was the same price as other 30-06-length magnums like 7mm Rem Mag. I figured it would be more expensive.

Lets not short-dick this project. Use an 8mm Rem Mag case, or maybe a 378 Weatherby, or a 9.3 RUM! 9.3 Lapua?

I am getting 2825 and 2845 with two 30-06 loads and 180gr A-Frames. Only 80fps slower than one of my 300s with the same bullet.

I always saw the 6.5 CM as the better 243. I haven’t killed anything with one, personally. I have loaded 127gr LRX, 130gr TMK, and 120 and 140gr Ballistic Tips for others. Velocities were pretty pedestrian, all around 2700 fps. But it kills deer and pigs just fine. For me, I prefer more...

One thing that’s nice is the M+ magazine in the tikka. You will get some more COAL to play with. That magazine gets pretty small with long action calibers. There is some factory ammo that won’t fit in my 300 Win Mag.

Damnit. I just got poorer.

I’m taking the plunge! My first trip to Africa!

I’ve always thought factory M70s recoiled more noticeably than other brands. I have an M700 in 300 Win Mag that has less felt recoil than my M70 in 30-06. But once I put the barreled action into an Edge, it felt noticeably more comfortable while being 11 oz lighter.

When I buy a new M70, I put the factory stock on ebay and order a McMillan.

Just the tip, eh?

I don’t crimp my 1885 loads. But, seating dies can usually be set to add a little roll crimp if you so choose.

Update, found a 375 Ruger. M77 Hawkeye.