Mauser 98 Builds

24 inch or you are wasting your time. 308, 358, 338 FED ok with 20 inch.
He hasn't let on what he is building.
I threw in .280ai as it's my current obsession,
Well if he upgrades to a 25" tube the .280ai would be a real contender on a Mauser action.
 
rdog,

I'm dying to get my gun room/workshop built. It's in the process, but itching every day.

I went with former Military actions, due to price and availability. My stockmaker showed me 2 Dumolin receivers he had hidden away the other day. I was speechless. New, in the box! He probably had another 1/2 dozen mixed Mauser actions, if not more stuffed in the cabinet. I feel I made a good choice with him!

I'll post the caliber choices when closer. I think one will be received happily, the other not so much.
Since these will be iron sight guns, and I don't yet handload I decide to go with calibers I already own/shoot. I didn't need/want to add another mouth to feed. To make it more interesting, I'll tell you some of the calibers I already own are; 35 Remington, 300 Savage, 280 Remington, 284 Win, 308 Win and 243 Win (others too). They may or may not be in one or more of these. Ohh, don't anyone tell Bob35whelen I own a 243!
Would you mind providing your stock makers contact information if possible through a PM please? Looking for one now. Would greatly appreciate it!!!
 
He hasn't let on what he is building.
I threw in .280ai as it's my current obsession,
Well if he upgrades to a 25" tube the .280ai would be a real contender on a Mauser action.
Yes i have a 270 Win & 280 REM, both with 25 inch bbls why waste a cartridges potential, if short bbls are your thing there are a lot of cartridges out there that suite.
 
World War Two U.S. bombs are also a big problem. I once built a couple of houses next door to an RNZAF ground crew veteran who served in the Pacific Theatre. He said that the British bombs only required a few rotor turns ( possibly a dozen?) to arm the fuse after release BUT the U.S. bombs required many more (possibly a couple of hundred turns) after release. This meant that the U.S. arming mechanisms had to be pre-wound and if people were in a hurry i.e., during direct support missions, the mechanism would not be sufficiently pre-wound. Suffice to say that Bruce and his colleagues were unhappy with that impractical arming mechanism.
 
He hasn't let on what he is building.
I threw in .280ai as it's my current obsession,
Well if he upgrades to a 25" tube the .280ai would be a real contender on a Mauser action.
:)

I'm keeping the calibers a secret, as mentioned, but I am enjoying the suggestions.

Since I own a 280REM, I probably wouldn't go 280AI, nothing wrong with it, and honestly not sure which is "better" - relative term obviously.

I've got several 24-26" rifles, so want these to be light. We're figuring right around 7lbs at completion, maybe a tad less.

Keep the recommendations coming!
 
World War Two U.S. bombs are also a big problem. I once built a couple of houses next door to an RNZAF ground crew veteran who served in the Pacific Theatre. He said that the British bombs only required a few rotor turns ( possibly a dozen?) to arm the fuse after release BUT the U.S. bombs required many more (possibly a couple of hundred turns) after release. This meant that the U.S. arming mechanisms had to be pre-wound and if people were in a hurry i.e., during direct support missions, the mechanism would not be sufficiently pre-wound. Suffice to say that Bruce and his colleagues were unhappy with that impractical arming mechanism.
Yup, can be a pain, and some of the German one's were/are dang near impossible to de-fuze. If I recall, you have to turn two mechanisms in different directions, at the same time.

Whenever possible, best to blast in place, but that's dependent on what's next door...
 
:)

I'm keeping the calibers a secret, as mentioned, but I am enjoying the suggestions.

Since I own a 280REM, I probably wouldn't go 280AI, nothing wrong with it, and honestly not sure which is "better" - relative term obviously.

I've got several 24-26" rifles, so want these to be light. We're figuring right around 7lbs at completion, maybe a tad less.

Keep the recommendations coming!
I built a 6.5x57 on a 1916 Erfurt SR action. With a blind mag stock, it is a delight to carry at under 7lb with the aperture sight and even with the 2-7 Leupold on board is still a light rifle
 
It's been a while since I've posted/updated on these. Got them back from the "Smith" a few weeks ago. It was a very fast turn around. Barrels fitted, sights installed, Timney Triggers, re-profiled trigger guards, bolt handles re-shaped, safeties converted to 2 position side throw, and probably some other stuff I've forgotten about. Stock Maker actually stopped by the house last week - we live close, and it's a rural community. Anyway, he picked them up and is starting the stocks.

For one, I'm going with an Ebony fore end tip. For the other, I've got some nice Cocobolo, and was thinking about using it. Any thoughts?

Sorry, I only took 1 picture, and it's not the best.

Still keeping the calibers to myself for now.

PXL_20221117_110559713.jpg
 
It's been a while since I've posted/updated on these. Got them back from the "Smith" a few weeks ago. It was a very fast turn around. Barrels fitted, sights installed, Timney Triggers, re-profiled trigger guards, bolt handles re-shaped, safeties converted to 2 position side throw, and probably some other stuff I've forgotten about. Stock Maker actually stopped by the house last week - we live close, and it's a rural community. Anyway, he picked them up and is starting the stocks.

For one, I'm going with an Ebony fore end tip. For the other, I've got some nice Cocobolo, and was thinking about using it. Any thoughts?

Sorry, I only took 1 picture, and it's not the best.

Still keeping the calibers to myself for now.

View attachment 505301

To each his own. Personally, cocobolo isn't enough of a contrast. The oil in cocobolo also makes it harder to work with. I assume you will be doing the stock work yourself? A nice oil finish and learn to checker (doesn't take long) and you should end up with a really nice piece!

Here's some stockwork I did on an old H&R 98 mauser in .30-06. It had cracked and been drilled through with tons of splinters.
20190218_191542.jpg


This had a cocobolo forend on it and it seemed awfully pointless to me, but it wasn't my rifle.
 
@CraigV : thanks for continuing to post about the progress!

I hope there are some nice traditional calibers among your choices! a 7x57 or 7x64 would be very sweet!
 
I was very lucky once, because my smith managed to grab two Dumoulin 98 actions. One of them wasn't even used...
They became a 8x64S and a 8x57IS...

Since then I am looking for this systems like a junkie... stunning quality at a very reasonable price, including an adjustable trigger...

Building or getting Mauser 98 built is addicting
 
at local auctions this year i picked up five 98 mausers of sorts, they were swedish 8mm,s built on fn 98 comersial actions with swedish barrels and stocks. i think simpson imported them all were under 400.00 with ex bores,decent blueing(no rust-pits), the stocks seem to be made ob beech in fairly good condition. i think i may rebarrel one and sell two.
 
To each his own. Personally, cocobolo isn't enough of a contrast. The oil in cocobolo also makes it harder to work with. I assume you will be doing the stock work yourself? A nice oil finish and learn to checker (doesn't take long) and you should end up with a really nice piece!

Here's some stockwork I did on an old H&R 98 mauser in .30-06. It had cracked and been drilled through with tons of splinters. View attachment 506217

This had a cocobolo forend on it and it seemed awfully pointless to me, but it wasn't my rifle.
ChrisG,

One is definitely getting an ebony fore end tip, and now I'm on the fence for the reasons you mentioned. I wanted one of them to look more nostalgic, but I agree, I don't think there will be enough contrast to achieve the proper look.

I'm not doing the work myself. I have an awesome stock guy close, and he has a full inventory of every type, figure and price of walnut blanks. Other than duplicating on a machine, everything else is done by hand. His tolerances are so tight, and his lines are kept slim - I could never compete. Maybe I should try to apprentice with him?!

Good looking work on that stock you cleaned repaired!
 
I haven't got these back, and I'm already wanting to build another...

Of course, part of the problem is the time of year. We've got about 24" of standing snow, and it's cold, so I'm stuck inside mostly. I went through the gun cabinet yesterday, bore snaked and wiped everything down. That should satisfy my urges for the next week or so.

These are my first Mauser builds, so I'm going to wait on another until after I shoot them. But they are addicting. And it's nice to take something that's old - and re-purpose them into proper hunting/shooting rifles.

Now for the finish... My options are a good blue finish (I again have a local who does really nice work), or parkerize. I am a fan of both. I'm leaning towards blueing, but as my hunting weather can be wet and snowy sometimes, I am considering parkerizing. Again, maybe one of each?
 
I haven't got these back, and I'm already wanting to build another...

Of course, part of the problem is the time of year. We've got about 24" of standing snow, and it's cold, so I'm stuck inside mostly. I went through the gun cabinet yesterday, bore snaked and wiped everything down. That should satisfy my urges for the next week or so.

These are my first Mauser builds, so I'm going to wait on another until after I shoot them. But they are addicting. And it's nice to take something that's old - and re-purpose them into proper hunting/shooting rifles.

Now for the finish... My options are a good blue finish (I again have a local who does really nice work), or parkerize. I am a fan of both. I'm leaning towards blueing, but as my hunting weather can be wet and snowy sometimes, I am considering parkerizing. Again, maybe one of each?
Parkerising is good BUT you still have to apply an appropriate anticorrosive liquid at regular intervals. Avoid PTFE like the plague. Breakfree and similar products can he good for protecting the finish on an injection moulded stock hut once you have that garbage on your metal work there is a risk that you will have intermittent coverage with any subsequent protective application. Ballistol or a similar product will do the job nicely.
 
OK,

Just picked them up from the stock maker. My opinion, fantastic work. Didn't go overboard on the grain, but really pretty. Some of the tightest fitting I've seen. The guy is 84 years old, does everyting by hand.

Now off to be blued.

Also time to reveal the calibers: 300 Savage on one, and 6.5 CM for the other. I'm sure there will be those who disagree, fine. I wanted easy to shoot, reliable, and caliber's that I already had. These were the best options for rifles that are going to remain iron sights.

PXL_20230723_202041696.jpg


PXL_20230723_201853400.jpg
PXL_20230723_201914213.jpg
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PXL_20230723_201957040.jpg
PXL_20230723_202000129.jpg
PXL_20230723_202009175.jpg
PXL_20230723_202012326.jpg
 
OK,

Just picked them up from the stock maker. My opinion, fantastic work. Didn't go overboard on the grain, but really pretty. Some of the tightest fitting I've seen. The guy is 84 years old, does everyting by hand.

Now off to be blued.

Also time to reveal the calibers: 300 Savage on one, and 6.5 CM for the other. I'm sure there will be those who disagree, fine. I wanted easy to shoot, reliable, and caliber's that I already had. These were the best options for rifles that are going to remain iron sights.

View attachment 547341

View attachment 547342View attachment 547343View attachment 547344View attachment 547345View attachment 547346View attachment 547347View attachment 547348
Nice! Who did the stock work?
 

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