375h&h guidance - bullets, dies, and brass

Datchew

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Questions for 375 handloaders

I would prefer to end up with 1 load for the caliber (i know... i know) and use it on everything up to cape buffalo, hippo, and croc.
For Africa travel, I'll run a 300WM and 375 on a blaser so no issue with plains game overkill issues.

Questions:
I like the RCBS matchmaster die sets with the adjustable seaters but it doesn't seem to be available for the caliber and if they were, I'm not sure it would fit in my old rockchucker. Any suggestions on dies and presses?

I typically buy a few boxes of a cartridge if it comes in the bullet I like and then re-use the fireformed brass with the same bullet. I don't see a lot of availability for the Barnes TSX 300gr which seems to be well regarded. If I start with virgin brass, what brands are recommended? I run Lapua on other calibers but don't see that for 375.

If I don't over-size the brass, how many reloads can i expect?

Any issues running hardcast 300 grains in a blaser for recreational pig patrol duties?
 
375 in a Blaser will be accurate with most ammo. TSX shows to be available online in Barnes and Doubletap. NorthFork have shown great accuracy in the R8. A-frames are always a good choice. Brass will last a number of loads, easily 6-7. Why bother with cast and related issues? Dies are a toss-up. I use Hornady for the 375. Good luck in Africa!
 
I have RCBS dies and use Noler brass, which is very consistent. What I like about the 375H&H Magnum is that it performs so well with a variety of bullets. Mine shoot cloverleafs with 235 grain bullets and handles others up to 300 grain almost as well. Barnes has excellent offerings across weight ranges and as has been noted, you can't go wrong with with A frames for the big stuff.
 
I have rcbs dies for my 375HH…I shoot a variety of brass that I’ve collected over time..

My rifle loves Barnes 300gr tsx… but it shoots 260gr nosler partitions very well also…
 
I've used Lyman, RCBS and Hornady dies for my .375's. No issues with any of them.

As for bullets, I like the 300-grain Swift A-Frame a lot. I've used them on critters as small as impala and as large as buffalo with uniformly excellent results. MV was just under 2 550 fps and I'm fine with that load out to 200 metres. The Woodleigh Protected Point (provided you can find any) will be my second choice in an expanding bullet here. If you need a solid, I'd go for the Woodleigh Hydro. They penetrate like nothing else and leave a proper wound channel as well.
 
I do prefer good brass and use Norma. @RAVEN ROCKS PRECISION had it for sale here not long ago and may still have some in stock.

Bullets: 300gr North Fork Bonded Core or Swift A-Frames are my first choices.

Powder: My M70 likes IMR4350 with the above two bullets loaded to the same 2550fps you'll see often quoted.

Dies: I use RCBS with my Rock Chucker Supreme

Primers : Federal Large Magnum

Reload brass for load development and practice as much as you like. But I personally only use new brass for hunting rounds.
 
Most die brands are good for your purpose. A couple of points:
  • Most 375 H&H chambers are a bit long and can lead to incipient head separation after a few reloads. Get something like the Hornady Headspace Comparator to measure a fired case. Adjust your resizing die so size a couple of thou shorter than the fired case. That will reduce case stretching yet allow for ease of chambering.
  • Don't use the seating die to apply a crimp. Buy a Lee Factory Crimp die, best thing since sliced bread.
 
I second @Hunter4752001's recommendation on the Lee Factory Crimp die.
 
There might be a reason for the sloppy fit in the chamber, like it goes bang every time due to the belt, and it always goes in even with a little dust. Seems like it might come out more easier after one firing from a full resize, if neck sizing over and over is anything to go by. What say you all?

Phil makes a lot of good points which should see you through practice with max case life. I would just emphasize feeding over everything else, for close up work.
 
If I had pigs to shoot, I would be running full power loads, which can be whatever reasonable level you want for Africa, don't have to be imitation 375 Weatherby loads. Good practice. I don't want anything in my head that says "Tom, hunter, loves to run light loads in his 375". But people built of sterner stuff, probably don't even want that way of thinking in theirs heads either...

9.3x62, does everything you want with the recoil of your 300 WM. The coolest Africa set-up I didn't find at a good price was an R8 with barrels for 9.3 and 6.5, and all the optics. Seemed pretty smart to me.
 
I just went through this exercise...

Redding dies
Norma cases
VV N540 powder
CCI250 primers
300gr Peregrine VRG3 for practise
300gr DGX Bonded and DGS for hunting
I use a Forster Co-Ax press
My rifle's accuracy node is around 2508fps
 
I do prefer good brass and use Norma. @RAVEN ROCKS PRECISION had it for sale here not long ago and may still have some in stock.

Bullets: 300gr North Fork Bonded Core or Swift A-Frames are my first choices.

Powder: My M70 likes IMR4350 with the above two bullets loaded to the same 2550fps you'll see often quoted.

Dies: I use RCBS with my Rock Chucker Supreme

Primers : Federal Large Magnum

Reload brass for load development and practice as much as you like. But I personally only use new brass for hunting rounds.
Thank you for the mention-

We currently have in stock:

-New Norma Brass
-New PPU Brass

-Swift 300gr A-Frames
-Swift 250gr A-Frames
-Norma 300gr Oryx
-PPU 300gr FMJ training bullets

 
Thx much. Great input!

I rebuild, headspace, and handload for old FAL battle rifles so I'm well-versed in cartridge case separation and the balance between setting brass length for reliability vs longevity. I full length resize.
I can set cbto and measure chambers accordingly.

I was hoping someone would correct me and tell me rcbs or someone really does make a mic seater but maybe it's not needed for a cartridge this large and I'll stick with my calipers for seating length.

Really appreciate the load recipes. I think that gets me enough to get started.

And upon reading your notes, I agree. Won't waste time with hardcast. Jacketed boolits just aren't that expensive to justify dealing with the extra mess.
1000002391.jpg
 
I’m not sure about how much future head separation potential can be controlled by setting sizing dies when resizing cases that headspace on the belt. Just set sizing die so cartridge chambers without any resistance. The 375 HH is fairly forgiving in that the body taper is adequate to help prevent chambering and extraction issues of reloaded ammo. It is one of the positive design features built into the original cartridge. Maybe a result of experimenting during original design where older smokeless powders like cordite could cause high pressure spikes in hot tropical climates. Of course how any one rifle reacts to any one batch of reloaded ammo will depend partially upon the specs of the chamber reamer used.

I’ve found 375 HH Remington brass is as good as any and powders like H4350 under quality 300 grain bullets like the TSX and A-Frame, among others, to about 2500 fps is the way to go.
 
Private message sent to Datchew.
 
If you are going to do a lot of belted magnum reloading i recommend getting one of these https://www.larrywillis.com/Lockstock.html

Seating die I use a Forster Bench rest Micrometer die and a factory crimp die.

I have Barnes for the 375 but just got a box of Swift A frames.
 

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