ZIMBABWE: Of Cigars, Leopards & Cape Buffalo

[Mort Hill]

So this trip report was supposed to start as an elephant safari in Zimbabwe five years ago. However, the USFW service put the damper on that safari with the import shut down. So my hunting partner and I waited 4 more years for folks to come to their senses. As we all know, that did not happen.

So at the end of 2020, I finally made the suggestion that we forgo elephant, and go chase cats in Zim. Mike bought in to going back for another lion, and I agreed to redeem myself on another leopard. So our grand safari celebrating turning 60 for each of us was off the ground.

A call to a PH friend from Zim, Pete Barnard, resulted in a scheduled 16 hunting day lion and leopard hunt for Big Mike and myself for last half of May, 2021, in the Arda Camp of the Save Conservancy.

Although having hunted South Africa, Zambia, and Tanzania a total 7 times, this would be our first trip to Zim(other than walking across Vic Falls bridge, stepping under the barrier, saying we’d been to Zim, then walking back to Zambia). Hardly a safari to Zim.

Our Safari started on May 12, with a flight from Nashville to Dulles for an overnight at the airport Marriott, before a morning departure on Ethiopian Airlines for Harare via Addis Ababa.

The Marriott is convenient to Dulles, but other than that, no amenities, and none of the bars or restaurant were open(thank you Covid).

So on @Gizmo’s recommendation from his trip report, we Ubered to The Shrimp Lover in Sterling Va. Gotta give Gizmo credit, the food at this Thai/Seafood hole in the wall rocked. We started with oysters rockefellar. I had a soft shell crab curry dish, and Big Mike had a shrimp/mussel/clam boil. Two southern boys absolutely filled to the brim. You’ll notice that unlike me, Big Mike is not big. That’s what his grandson will call him, and it’s the first nickname to stick with him in the 30+ years we have hunted together.

We returned to the hotel for the night, in order to get to the airline counter the recommended 3 hours prior to our flight. Of course, I had to cap off our first night of travel with a wonderful cigar. I no longer drink. Haven’t done so in 24 years since sobriety. So cigars have become my vice, and my most favorite love after God, wife/children, and country. So, I really need to file another report under the cigar thread as to how one can smoke a total of 183 cigars over 23 days. Yes, I counted, and yes, I carried that many cigars.

So up early, off the the airport, check in, guns situated, and on to the EA lounge for some breakfast. Alas, not much I like about Dulles except they do have smoking rooms. So with about 18 hours of travel ahead to Harare, I headed to the smoking lounge for a last couple of cigars so I would not be jonesing on the flight.

Oh, and get used to the mask thing because the airlines make you wear every moment you are not eating or drinking.

Soon we will be in Africa and our grand adventure can really start.

 

[BnC 04]

Great start @Mort Hill ...looking forward to further installments.

 

[Uncle Sauce]

Ahhh...the wait is finally over! Continue sir!

 

[Brent in Az]

Only 183 cigars? You are getting soft!

 

[rinehart0050]

Looking forward to your report!

 

[BRICKBURN]

Here we go.

 

[Royal27]

Looking forward to this one!

 

[Brent in Az]

I won't be a spoiler....but wait until you see some of the photos.

 

[BourbonTrail]

Finally! I am stoked (pun intended)!

 

[Mort Hill]

Arrival in Harare:

Well we made it. Departed Nashville to start the trip over on May 12. We are stepping off the Ethiopian Airlines flight onto Zimbabwean soil on May 14 at about 12:40PM.

After visas, collecting bags, gun inspection, we are out the terminal doors to be met by Pete’s close friend Leo. Leo is there waiting, and after some small talk and a drive over some of the worst pot-holed roads I’ve ever experienced, we are dropped off at our B&B, The Guinea Fowl. Annette and Dave are good friends with Pete, but aside from that, this is one awesome and relaxing B&B.

Accommodations and grounds are great. There is even a pet resident monkey, Alphie, who was orphaned on the family farm 14 years ago, and is now the grooming specialist for those who want to be checked for bugs. Alphie however is not partial to cigars. Unless unlit and in your pocket. He is quite the five finger thief.

Leo hangs around for a few beers while I enjoy a nice Cuban Partagas Series D. We meet several of the other guest, a couple of plane mechanics working on some freight planes used in the Sudan; and namely a trio of young women there for the weekend from Bulwayo. Leo immediately goes all bird dog on these gals, but they manage to shut him down without effort. Big Mike and I were just happy to be there.

After a fabulous dinner and a finisher smoke, we hit the bed as our charter to Arda Camp with depart the next morning. Strap on the CPAP, and it was seconds before I was out and the alarm was going off. I can’t stand being so tired you feel like missed a good nights sleep even though you were zonked out from the time you hit the pillow until the alarm blares. But just thankful for the rest all the same.

We have a great made to order breakfast, and not soon after Leo once again picks us up to get us to the airport for our charter. We thank Annette as we will see her in 17 days at the end of our safari.

At the Harare airport, we are fortunate to run into Patrick Mavros. It winds up I grew up with some close friends of theirs from Tennessee. What a great ambassador for Zimbabwe. He welcomes us into the private lounge, invites us to his estate after the hunt, and generally gives us a warm send off to our safari.

We meet Giles, our veteran pilot for the 206 flight to the Senuko airstrip in the Save. The flight last about an hour and a half, but saves us a 7-1/2 hour drive. Besides, we had sent the PH’s down a couple of days early to start some prebaiting.

I am somewhat amazed as we fly to the Save how much of the land is cleared and settled by small farms. There only seem to be pockets of mopani forest and thickets of acacia. That all changes once we hit the boundary of the Save. Although not what it once was, there is still minimal encroachment by the villagers. The forest and thickets and creeks and rivers abound. No civilization as far as the eye can see. Now this is what we came for.

As we land at Senuko, Giles powers down the Cessna just as a giraffe walks onto the far end of the airstrip. We quickly come to a halt, but you know you’re in Africa when there is a giraffe standing in the middle of the airstrip.

 

[Ravensview]

I am already in awe at the 183 cigars in 23 days!

 

[PARA45]

I've been anxiously and patiently (not) waiting for this report. Man, I feel like a novice next to you when it comes to cigar smoking Keep it coming!

 

[gillettehunter]

Great start. Can hardly wait for the rest.
Bruce

 

[Mort Hill]

First Day in Camp:

As we arrive at the airstrip, we are greeted by PH Pete Barnard, his two trackers Manu(short for Emmanuel), and Manager. I ask Pete what the manager’s name is and he says, no, “Manager is his God given name.” Oh, well that clears that up.

Now I will jump ahead with a pic from after the trip for context.

This is Pete’s new Land Cruiser. This is the first safari in said Land Cruiser. So remember the 183 cigars. Well Pete, being completely anal about his new baby, does not want me to smoke in the new ride. Says he does not mind, but future clients might notice the odor. Listen, I get it. My wife can smell a cigar on me 3 states away, so I am more than happy to ride up back. I like the view anyway. But more on this later.

In addition, I had told Pete I did not care if he brought his 4 month old Jagd Terrier on the safari to get some training. I really would never have given it a second thought except Pete treated “Jessica” like a human toddler. Now I have known Pete for 10 years since we met at SCI. I really had no idea how pathetic he could be when coddling his puppy. I decided then and there it was up to me to train Jess to be a tracking dog. She really is fabulous, and I am searching for a Jagd Terrier in the states right now. But I am worried about Pete. Dog sweater? Really? Here are a couple of our normal riding positions, when I’m not on the back puffing a cigar.

So we leave Senuko airfield and go by the ranger camp to pick up our ranger for the next 16 days. He is a young friendly fellow, and I later learn to pronounce his name, phonically, “tuff-fodz-wa”. In addition to the ranger, we also have a local scout to help us get around. His nickname for the trip will be Scout, because frankly I am not that original, and for 16 days I could not remember his real name(Ba-reer-ree).

45 minutes later we arrive at Arda Camp in the Save. It is a lovely tented camp with a permanent dining pavilion set on some meandering sand river.

Once at camp and unpacked, Big Mike meets his PH, Brent Hiem, and his crew for their lion/buff hunt. We eat a great lunch, then make plans to go sight in rifles. I can tell at once that Pete and Brent are long time buddies. Their banter back and forth would keep things lively for 16 days. As would their practical jokes on each other.

We travel away from camp to a clear spot with a large baobab. We sight in rifles and the .375 H&H is dead on, 1” high at 100 yds. The .416 Rigby needs a little work, but we get it dialed to spot on the mark as the only work it will see is on buffalo.

From here, we take the remaining hour of daylight to go hunt for leopard bait. Pete managed to get two leopard baits hung with impala. We are looking for impala or zebra, the apparent two favorite game of this area. After about 45 minutes of driving, we finally catch a glimpse of impala moving through the thorn bushes. I quickly dismount and rush to follow Pete the 150 or so yards until we round a big bush. It’s lights out for the ram, and I realize that tomorrow morning we will be hanging a new leopard bait. Even though this is only a bait animal, it is a great feeling to be hunting again in Africa. Plus, I love to hunt impala. I think it is a very under rated African trophy.

So with the ram loaded, we head back to camp for bush TV, drinks and cigars, dinner and a shower.

However, before we make it back to camp, our progress is halted by a down tree and the elephant bull who has just toppled it. This bull was in must, and was not in a mood to leave his buffet. We banged doors, shouted, and put the spot light on him. He finally moved off just far enough that we could still hear him grumbling, but it was safe enough for the boys to cut the tree and move it out of the road. On to camp. Man, what a fantastic first day it has been in Zim.

 

[PARA45]

Beautiful keep it coming. I'll have to take my laptop outside and smoke a cigar while reading your report.

 

[Mort Hill]

I know to some, my reports can seem overly drawn out and lengthy. I apologize if you find that the case. My goal in writing a hunting report is to give the reader who may never have been on safari, or to a particular country, or for a particular species, enough information to assist in making a fair evaluation of the trip.

Also, selfishly, it allows me to relive each day of my safari. So bear with me, as I promise we will shortly get into the heart of the safari.

Just felt like stating this from my own perspective, not because of any feedback. Thanks to all who are following.

 

[Edster]

Keep going —- but wait I need to get me some

 

[PARA45]

The more details, the better. Grab another cigar, and please get on it.

 

[Hunting Sailor]

I like your writing style, waiting impatiently for each instalment. Please continue.

 

[Randy F]