Which scope is ideal for Winchester 70 Pre-64 30-06

[CZDiesel]

Based on the feedback I’m wondering if I should just keep the Weaver 2.5 scope that it came with

Dont Don’t do that! You still want a really nice scope for such a nice rifle…
Those three I posted along with a set of Talley rings and bases and you’ll be set forever!

 

[RR 314]

Based on the feedback I’m wondering if I should just keep the Weaver 2.5 scope that it came with

Haaaaa. My response was going to be put a 4x El Paso era correct Weaver on it.

I tend to prefer more magnification than most, but if illuminated reticle was not a requirement, I would likely stick with an era (heck, stretch it into the ‘70s) scope topping out at 10-12. Classic Balvar’s were good era scopes as well.

 

[Bandera]

Another vote here for the Leupold VX-5 2-10X42 with fire dot. The CDS is easy to use, it does have a zero stop.

Side focus, hash marks and mil dots are just Murphy Magnets.

 

[Throwback]

I dont know if its ideal but I certainly like it. Last year I put a Leupold VX3 2.5-8 x 36 on my pre 1964 Win 70 30.06. I really wanted a 1" tube due to the degree of bolt throw and wanted an overall "low/lower profile" scope vs the VX5's and 6's which I do use on some modern rifles. I figure this rifle is a 250 yard gun more or less. Wont be dialing anything.

That 2x10 x 42 would work too. That firedot is nice.

Also, I had a scope from the mid 1960's on there that I liked it but it was failing some and upgrading it was the way to go imo. Cheers

 

[Ruraldoc]

I have a pre64 Featherweight in 270. It wears a 90s vintage Ziess 1.5-6x42.

But I have a Steyr 308 with the a Leupold 2-10. My leupold 2-10 is the simplest version.

No illuminated reticle and no external turret.

It is a fantastic scope which compares nicely to the optics on several top tier euro scopes.

For hunting out to 300 yards,the simple version of the 2-10 covers all the bases.

If I am in africa, paying a trophy fee on animals hit but not recovered, then 300 yards is far enough for me. Shooting successfully beyond 300 yards requires plenty of practice doing it before hand that most people don’t do.

My two longest shots were a mule deer at 480 yards and a pronghorn at 360 yards. Both were prone off a bipod with a custom rifle shooting custom handloads after a lot of practice off bipods out to 500 yards.

I later missed a Boone and Crocket mule deer with this same rifle and scope at 50 yards, running offhand because of the complicated christmas tree reticle. I think scopes with too many bells and whistles can cost us quick opportunities at normal hunting ranges. At least that happened to me.


Most people, including me are better off with simpler scoped rifles that are point and shoot out to 300 yards with the right loads.

 

[SStomcat]

Dont Don’t do that! You still want a really nice scope for such a nice rifle…
Those three I posted along with a set of Talley rings and bases and you’ll be set forever!

I won’t, so the choice seems to be now between Leupold VX5 2x10 with Firedot reticle and Swaro z6i 1.7x10 42

What say folks?

 

[Firebird]

Either of those two choices will serve you well. What is the price comparison?

 

[SStomcat]

Either of those two choices will serve you well. What is the price comparison?

1299 and 2399 respectively

 

[Doug3006]

Based on the feedback I’m wondering if I should just keep the Weaver 2.5 scope that it came with

I think a basic variable-powered scope like 2-7 or 3-9 would be a bit more versatile than a straight 2.5. However, there’s nothing wrong with a fixed power. If it’s clear, and the windage and elevation adjustments are accurate a repeatable, then you can certainly hunt plains game with it. I hate trying to sight a rifle when the windage and elevation adjustments are all over the place. This is the case with some lower priced scopes.

 

[trperk1]

2x7 or 3.9. I wouldn't put a long range scope on a 30/06 as you don't need 15x or the weight. I personally, it just fit a pre-64 win.

 

[375er]

Leupold.

 

[dchum]

Based on the feedback I’m wondering if I should just keep the Weaver 2.5 scope that it came with

No! 30-06 deserves at least 8 power in my opinion.

 

[Inkgardener]

Hah! For me, an El Paso K4.

But that’s just me.

That’s what I have on my FN .30-06.

However, if Leupold came out with a 2-7x36 with firedot in a vx3 or better I would buy 5 of them.

 

[Ruraldoc]

Another scope to consider is the Meopta 1.7-10x42 with the illuminated 4a reticle.

I have one of those on a Model 70 in 375.

I have compared it to @JHT’s Swaro in the same power range with the same reticle.

They are both great scopes. The Meopta is priced in between the Swarovski and the Leupold.

 

[Ruraldoc]

For the money, the Leupold 2-10 is very hard to beat.

Winchester rifles look right with Leupold scopes in my opinion anyway.

 

[Ryan]

The two choices are an apples and oranges comparison to me. That said, if these are my choices I'd use the Swaro.

For hunting practical purposes that's essentially the same as my 2-10X 40mm Vortex on my 7mm-08 I use to the same limits. Simple, relatively light weight without bells and whistles. Low end is great for any surprises at really close range and upper end is plenty for 300.

 

[Wyatt Smith]

I think the swaro 3x9 36 would be perfect. Or an old zeiss fixed 4x

 

[JG26Irish_2]

I think your answer is likely to depend upon how classic vintage you want to go with the old classic pre 64 vintage Model 70? I had a similar issue when I set up my old classic FN Browning Hi-Power 308 for an African PG hunt. That rifle was built in 1963. I wanted a variable that went down to 2 or 3x on the low end and no more than 12x on the upper end. It was going to be set up to shoot out to 300y but in reality the longest shot I took was 202y. I like illuminated reticles for all conditions utility but since my 2nd rifle had a nice illuminated Swaro on it I was not handicapped by going vintage.

In the end, I chose a vintage B&L Balvar in 2.4-8x which is a FFP optic. These are obsolete and tedious to zero but once set up, they make a near bulletproof package. I used a vintage Kuharsky detachable mount. These scopes do not have turrets and are zeroed by adjustments built into the base mounted on the rifle. It allows the optic to be moved from rifle to rifle and yet retains zero on each rifle via the adjustable base mount. While old and clunky, these old Bausch and Lomb scopes possessed superior glass to near anything on the market in its day. B&L had access to a deposit of nearly pure quartz sand in the Pittsburgh area. This produced lenses of near perfect optical clarity. They used this glass to build the spy cameras used on first the U2 and later the SR71 spy planes. Occasionally one of those big ass lenses would be found with an occlusion and could not be used for its intended purpose. So, they would cut up the lenses and build rifle scopes from it. The old Balvars have clarity that rivals even the best tier 1 optics today and are able to do this without the use of fragile ARC coatings. You can dial them from lowest to highest magnification without the need for parallax adjustment. The tapered reticle is easy to see at low power and precise at high power. It is telling that my rifles were dropped by baggage handlers at the airline and my other rifle's scope had to be adjusted before use in Africa being 6" high at first shot. The old vintage Balvar was dead on from the first shot despite it being shipped in the same case.

I was even able to use this optic while night hunting in Limpopo for some of the smaller nocturnal critters and could easily pick up the reticle in such low light conditions. It has limitations since you cannot adjust the POI easily in the field so, shooting very long ranges where hold over or dialing is required is not an option. But, since my max range was 300y, I just zeroed it at 200y with my 180g ammo and that made it 2" high at 100y and 3-4" low at 300y. It worked perfect and I took five animals with it and all of them were one shot kills. To be sure, you can do better but this little gem cost me only $60 on Ebay. Compared to a top tier Leupold or Swarovski, etc and it was quite the bargain. I have two Swarovskis and one Kahles hunting scope as well as two Leupolds a Zeiss and a number of Arken scopes. All of these have very good glass. The clunk little Balvar is on par with all of them except possibly the Kahles which is amazing. I do not own a Razor or a NF ATAC-R but have had the opportunity to play with both and while they are very good optics they too are only as good. My Leupolds are not top tier products from that fine mfg. They are older VX2 and a newer bottom of the line 1.5-4x. OK to be sure but not as good as the others. Leupold does my some which are much better than mine.

In 1963 I could have bought three of the Medallion Grade FN's for the price of a new Balvar. It is a unicorn. Now, I am going to be in Free State next year for some hunting and my PH advises that I need to be able to shoot out to 400y in some cases. I could have swapped scopes on the FN but, I like it as it is so well that I bought another rifle and put a proper FFP adjustable optic on it with lighted reticle for that trip. Pic of the little FN below for your viewing.

Something to consider before you decide. The rifle does not know what sighting system you use to point it downrange. It will shoot just as good with iron sights, a fixed power 4x or a top tier 3-18x optic. The only difference will be your ability to see well enough to aim it precisely. All that is needed is enough scope to see well in practical conditions to hunt. A wide field of view is desirable. A low power of 2-3x is good. Lower might be better if you are hunting in dense cover where closer shots are the norm. Most of my shots were at the lowest power setting with only one exception. What works well at the range is not necessarily the hot ticket in the field. What and where you are hunting will drive much of the decision making.

 

[SStomcat]

In the end, I chose a vintage B&L Balvar in 2.4-8x which is a FFP optic. These are obsolete and tedious to zero but once set up, they make a near bulletproof package. I used a vintage Kuharsky detachable mount. These scopes do not have turrets and are zeroed by adjustments built into the base mounted on the rifle. It allows the optic to be moved from rifle to rifle and yet retains zero on each rifle via the adjustable base mount.

Thanks for the insight.Without a Windage or Elevation turret it must be Pita to zero in.

 

[meigsbucks]

I checked the Swaro as I don’t think you need over 10x on an ‘06. My own personal choice would be a 2.5-8x Leupold.