Stock Reinforcement for a .416

ChrisG

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So Instead of tagging on my previous thread, I thought I would start a new one about this... and maybe it should go in the gunsmithing section, I don't know.

Anyway, I have had my .416 Ruger Hawkeye African out a couple of times and I have put about 20 rounds through it. I have drilled down through the wrist and epoxied a piece of threaded rod to ensure that it doesn't crack and I also glass bedded the recoil lug for firm sold contact. I was wondering if there was any other reinforcement you all would recommend as the rifle does have a fair deal of recoil. I was thinking about epoxying the cross bolts into the stock but I don't know if it is entirely necessary. I would hate to have the stock crack after 50 or 100 rounds.

Let me know your thoughts.
 
I like pillar bedding my rifles.. generally helps with accuracy and also reduces stress on the stock..

pretty easy to do yourself if you have some basic tools and the right jig.... also pretty affordable if you would prefer that a gunsmith do it for you..
 
I like pillar bedding my rifles.. generally helps with accuracy and also reduces stress on the stock..

pretty easy to do yourself if you have some basic tools and the right jig.... also pretty affordable if you would prefer that a gunsmith do it for you..
I thought about doing that myself. Is it actually advantageous for stock strength? I always just thought it was to keep the screw holes from crushing down leading to a degradation of accuracy?
 
The first crack that appears on guns that I have shot is in the small bridge of wood between the trigger and the magazine. Most wood stocks for heavy recoiling rifles have a crossbolt installed, but if your rifle doesn't, that is one thing I would do.
 
It
The first crack that appears on guns that I have shot is in the small bridge of wood between the trigger and the magazine. Most wood stocks for heavy recoiling rifles have a crossbolt installed, but if your rifle doesn't, that is one thing I would do.
does have a crossbolt there but it is just the typical Ruger crossbolt screw and does not appear to be epoxied in. I was wondering if it would be advantageous to epoxy that in with marine epoxy?
 
I think so. Anything that adds to the stocks stability and strength would be good.
 
I thought about doing that myself. Is it actually advantageous for stock strength? I always just thought it was to keep the screw holes from crushing down leading to a degradation of accuracy?

I was told years ago that it improved the stocks lifespan (and improved accuracy) by further reducing movement of the action in the stock (it was recommended that I both glass bed and pillar bed my rifles if I wanted to get max performance out of them)..

whether that is absolute truth or not.. I don't know.. its just what one particular gunsmith was preaching about 2 decades back that had a pretty decent reputation for building long range / precision rifles (he had a couple of rifles that were used to win at Camp Perry and Camp Williams back in the late 80's and early 90's).. Ive never asked anyone else.. I've just continued the process of getting it done on my nicer guns and heavier recoiling guns ever since..
 
The first crack that appears on guns that I have shot is in the small bridge of wood between the trigger and the magazine. Most wood stocks for heavy recoiling rifles have a crossbolt installed, but if your rifle doesn't, that is one thing I would do.
My 300WM cracked here. Ended up putting in crossbolts and having it bedded.
Much more accurate now.
 
the 416 Ruger doesnt produce that much recoil compared to other large bore guns. while im not a fan of Ruger rifles i dont see the wrist cracking any time soon on their new production guns. i have shot hundreds of rounds threw my Winchester 416 RM with no extra wrist support and i doubt it will ever crack. even my 505 Gibbs has no extra wrist support and ive been shooting loads that make a 416 Ruger look a like a 30-30.

in general if your stock is properly made it will out last your children.

-matt
 
the 416 Ruger doesnt produce that much recoil compared to other large bore guns. while im not a fan of Ruger rifles i dont see the wrist cracking any time soon on their new production guns. i have shot hundreds of rounds threw my Winchester 416 RM with no extra wrist support and i doubt it will ever crack. even my 505 Gibbs has no extra wrist support and ive been shooting loads that make a 416 Ruger look a like a 30-30.

in general if your stock is properly made it will out last your children.

-matt
In general I would agree with you I have heard stories of Ruger rifles cracking their stocks. They were pretty early in the run. I understand that compared to a .505 Gibbs it is kind of a popgun but it does only weigh 8.7 lbs when fully loaded which puts it's recoil pretty on par with a 10.5-11lb .458 Lott... when it comes down to it though, your average large bore's stock is literally absorbing 10's of thousands of pounds of force and redistributing some to your shoulder. I just wanna make sure it's gonna last. If your .505s holding up without support I guess I shouldn't worry
 
if the Ruger has a reputation for breaking stocks then I completely understand your concern. as I said, I don't like Ruger rifles so my knowledge of them is pretty limited. I only said something because its usually pretty rare for small and medium bore rifles to crack stocks these days. heck even true large bore rifles rarely crack their stocks. the only cracked stock ive seen recently has been my 585 HE firing a 750gr bullet at around 2200fps (stock cracked at the tang). but I admit I put a really cheap stock on that rifle.

on the topic of recoil, my 416 RM weighs 9 pounds and comparing it to a Lott would be a massive stretch. the 458 Lott is a wonderful cartridge but is a very large step up from a 416/404 in terms of recoil.

-matt
 
Thanks everyone for your replies. I think I am just going to leave the reinforcement like it is and not mess with the gun anymore. I am getting the impression that I have over-braced it and it shouldn't go anywhere.
 
The main reason for Ruger and CZ cracking/splitting the wrist is lack of clearance between the rear tang and timber. You only need a small gap here- about a laying card thickness- to stop this or so I and several people I know have found. Any rifle that generates, say 375 H&H, recoil levels should, in my opinion, have cross bolts and bedding.
 

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