So I've been playing with oil finishes

[rookhawk]

@rookhawk
FYI, In this video Johny is at Orvis and they talk about the old "Uplander" guns from the custom shop.

A very entertaining video. Thanks for sharing. I bought my latest Uplander from Greg at Orvis who was featured in the video.

 

[cash_tx]

This past weekend I handled a Portugal-made Win Model 70 Fwt in 264 Win Mag, and it was a well assembled gun; but the wood finish was the work of a sleepy Kindergartener. It seemed like the kind of job that gets done late on a Friday just about happy hour. It could have definitely benefited from this thread...

 

[cold1]

Timberluxe was introduced to me by a gunsmith friend and I have used it on several "rescues" that I have done. I have tried several other finishes over the years and Timberluxe is the easiest to use and provides good results. I like to use an alkenet root oil stain to help highlight the grain and then a few coats of Timberluxe.

A german Guild drillings I rescued

An English single 12gauge that I rescued

 

[coreydb]

Beautiful work!

 

[jbirdwell]

This stock was just finished in Timberluxe only, no stain. It’s my pre64 model 70 my gunsmith converted to 400 H&H. The pics are not that great and I need to take some outside with some good light. The stock is from Richards Microfits that required much work.

View attachment IMG_4312.jpeg

 

[HunterX]

What do you guys think about Danish Oil? I have been doing a comparison of red oil, double boiled linseed oil, timber luxe regular, timber luxe old style and danish oil and the same strip of wood.

 

[375er]

What do you guys think about Danish Oil? I have been doing a comparison of red oil, double boiled linseed oil, timber luxe regular, timber luxe old style and danish oil and the same strip of wood.

On a gun stock Danish oil would not be on my list. Works fine for indoor furniture but on a stock I want something that makes a harder surface.

 

[woodsrunner]

Timberluxe sounds interesting, i will look into it, thanks. I'm not sure why the hate for Tru-oil. I believe it is basically just boiled linseed oil and possibly some Tung oil with drying agents, no? I've used it for years for refinishing. A person can get any level of finish they want from the stuff, from matte to high "London" polish. The trick i've found with it is in the effort put into the stock once all your layers are dry, how much you rub it out and with what sort of paper or cloth. Mind you, i am not necessarily that sophisticated in my discernment and my rifles are used heavily in the field by necessity - i can't afford the egregious blocks of time required for some of the processes i've seen described, and the only 'oil' i've used on a working stock so far that isn't rubbed through to the wood at carry points by the end of a season of packing it around is oil-based spar urethane (the water-based is touted as "crystal clear" - it is not, while it introduces no amber tint typical of oils, by the time you have layered it up it is like an eye going milky and you wonder where all the wood grain went.) That's some unforgiving stuff to apply compared to oils - or to touch-up, but once you get the hang of application it is tough and can also be worked to a surprisingly decent finish, be it satin or gloss, with the right polishing agents not typical of what is used on oil finishes and plenty of elbow grease. I don't suppose anyone is going to recommend that for a truly high-end gun(!) though, unless you are a PH splitting the difference between beauty and ultimate utility maybe. The upside with all this is you can always strip it off, whatever it is, and try again with something else if it is a disaster.

 

[Albert GRANT]

Timberluxe sounds interesting, i will look into it, thanks. I'm not sure why the hate for Tru-oil. I believe it is basically just boiled linseed oil and possibly some Tung oil with drying agents, no? I've used it for years for refinishing. A person can get any level of finish they want from the stuff, from matte to high "London" polish. The trick i've found with it is in the effort put into the stock once all your layers are dry, how much you rub it out and with what sort of paper or cloth. Mind you, i am not necessarily that sophisticated in my discernment and my rifles are used heavily in the field by necessity - i can't afford the time required for some of the processes i've seen described, and the only 'oil' i've used on a working stock so far that isn't rubbed through to the wood at carry points by the end of a season of packing it around is oil-based spar urethane (the water-based is touted as "crystal clear" - it is not, while it introduces no amber tint typical of oils, by the time you have layered it up it is like an eye going milky and you wonder where all the wood grain went.) That's some unforgiving stuff to apply compared to oils - or to touch-up, but it is tough and can also be worked to a surprisingly decent finish, be it satin or gloss, with the right agents not typical of what is used on oil finishes and plenty of elbow grease. I don't suppose anyone is going to recommend that for a truly high-end gun, though, unless you are a PH. The upside with all this is you can always strip it off and try again with something else if it is a disaster.

Based on your description above I think you will be pleasantly surprised with timberlux