Should I cut my 375 H&H barrel?

JeeperCreeper

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I have a 90's CRF Winchester 70 in 375 H&H. I got it on trade, and I have no sentimental value to it.

I'm in Alaska, and I want to use it for bear. It's currently a blued synthetic model with irons and 24" barrel. She's chunky and heavy.

I want to cut her to 18-20", thread muzzle, redo irons, and get it cerakoted. Maybe, flute the barrel as well.

Local builder quoted approx 600-800 bucks, subject to change.

Anyone have any pics of cool short barreled big bored??? Any issues with going that short, seems I'll only lose 100-150 fps in velocity??? Any experience with a shortened barrel getting trash accuracy??

Thoughts??
 
Screenshot_20251219-115957.png
 
I think it's about 20fps per inch for 375 so that's nothing you can't make up for if you handload and if it's critical to you (shouldn't be). Accuracy is dependent on the smith doing the work. If he cuts it square and gives you a nice crown it should be fine. Again, handloading for the new barrel length may be an advantage, but not mandatory. A handi or scout rifle in a heavy caliber like 375 is a cool concept. I say proceed sir.
 
Cut it to 20"... the perfect carbine length for a medium bore... do NOT flute the barrel. Do install a barrel band front sight and cerakote the barreled action.

Here is a pair of 20" carbines in .350 Rem Mag and .458 Win Mag...


20251107_190705.jpg


And they work great on bears...

20250615_220344.jpg
20250611_200335.jpg
 
Sure. Cut it you wish but fluting with iron sites is usually goofy and no significant weight reduction.
 
I'd cut it too. I had a stainless classic Winchester that had some minor custom changes done that was commissioned by Great Northern Guns in Anchorage. They did several of them and each had the bottom metal with heavy engraved outline of Kodiak and different famous bear bays as the edition name. Not sure how many they had made. I think cut to 20", their "Terror Bay" edition, cerecoated matte black and shot great. Cant remember why, but I traded out of it for a Wild West levergun. I had several of the stainless classics over the last 20 years, down to just one, that is still factory 24" length and it too will get cut back to 20-21" as I plan to have it threaded for a suppressor and have the front express sight set back. It is bedded in McSwirley stock, which I will also shorten a little...plan is to make it my daughter's rifle for cape buffalo in a couple years.

Out of the 7-8 Winchester classics I've had in 375, shot them a lot, but rarely hunted with them just because they were so darn heavy for the cartridge. I just always ended up grabbing one of my 338WM. Its a shame too, they are great guns. Think putting one through some weight-loss steps would make a handy killing stick for our neck of the woods for sure.
 
Excellent idea, I cut a Weatherby Ultralight .300Win that I rebarreled to .375H&H to 19in no problem with accuracy but it was a Demon in recoil & drove the scope into my forehead on a steep uphill shot one day !

Also I spent some time in Alaska & unless Global Climate Change has made it nice & dry without the Shite Weather I endured while there, I think best to start with a Stainless Steel rifle ?
 
Excellent idea, I cut a Weatherby Ultralight .300Win that I rebarreled to .375H&H to 19in no problem with accuracy but it was a Demon in recoil & drove the scope into my forehead on a steep uphill shot one day !

Also I spent some time in Alaska & unless Global Climate Change has made it nice & dry without the Shite Weather I endured while there, I think best to start with a Stainless Steel rifle ?
I agree on the stainless, and if I had a choice that would be it. I know a few that still use blued, but it's a never ending battle with rust and the rifles get haggard without insane TLC

That's why I'm going for the cerakote when I cut it down
 
Excellent idea, I cut a Weatherby Ultralight .300Win that I rebarreled to .375H&H to 19in no problem with accuracy but it was a Demon in recoil & drove the scope into my forehead on a steep uphill shot one day !

Also I spent some time in Alaska & unless Global Climate Change has made it nice & dry without the Shite Weather I endured while there, I think best to start with a Stainless Steel rifle ?
Did you notice any very bad velocity loss at 19"??
 
Did you notice any very bad velocity loss at 19"??
I have cut down many, many barrels... chronoed, before and after and can tell you that you won't lose much velocity with a .375 H&H... certainly nothing that will affect the terminal results.
 
Did you notice any very bad velocity loss at 19"??

You know I did test & write it down back then but can’t find the journal now.

Nothing major as I remember & still plenty of power for what you would do with a .375H&H

If you hand load you would soon match factory ballistics I’m sure ?
 
Please share the velocity data also. Thanks.
This is exactly what I need, thank you!

This forum is the best

 
Looks good so far! How bout a 2-piece base? Or a 1-piece that fits the action?
It's got an older Leupold quick disconnect on it

But now that I look at this pic, it does look like the dimensions are off a little bit. Is that what you're talking about, that it might be too short??
 
It's got an older Leupold quick disconnect on it

But now that I look at this pic, it does look like the dimensions are off a little bit. Is that what you're talking about, that it might be too short??
Yeah, I was just noticing that the rear of the 1-pc base covers a good chunk of the loading port. Looks like it was made for a short action instead of the express action. I mean if it works and doesn't impede loading or ejection, no big deal. Since you're doing all this cool work though, new base and rings might be the cherry on top!
 

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