Recoil Reducers- Non-mercury type

Nicholas Barcomb

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I have a mercury type recoil reducer in my Ruger #1 chambered in 405 Winchester. Some countries do not allow mercury anything into or out of them. I am looking specifically at the Edward's line of spring style mercury reducers and was wondering if anyone has experience with these or a similar type and what do they think or suggest about them. Thank you.
 
"Dead Mule Recoil Reducer" fits Stock Bolt Hole 7/8" Diameter x 4-1/4" Long

It is sold by many different company's. Midway has it in stock

Try this one... Trap shooters use it and it works. Many swear by it...
 
I have installed a spring type in my 416 ruger. (not sure the brand). I think the fact that I added weight did more to reduce recoil then anything.
 
Have you thought about Mag-na-port? I have my 300 RUM mag-na-ported and recently sent my 375. H&H to them. I truly think it helps.
 
Mag-na-porting was developed to reduce muzzle jump. They advertise that Mag-na-porting will give about a 15% reduction in recoil in rifles, however they also make a Mag-na-brake that they advertise gives about a 45% reduction in recoil, which is similar to the other muzzle brakes on the market.

Nicholas, I answered this question on another Forum where you asked it.

I have an Edwards reducer in the stock of my .300 Weatherby along with a Limbsaver pad and a KDF muzzle brake. The felt recoil of my .300 Bee is a lot less than a .30-06.

I have reducers in one other rifle and three of my shotguns. Two of those reducers are mechanical and two are mercury. I think one of them is a Dead Mule. All of them work, I can't tell if one is better than the others.
 
I have to admit I can't wrap my head around how the physics of any recoil reducer works other than adding weight to the rifle. Perhaps someone can explain it. Brakes are despised by PH's because they can't hang back due to the fact they have to spot the shot
 
lcq,
I have to agree, I don't like muzzle brakes at all. The idea of recoil reducing devices is to use the rifles inertia under recoil to produce a opposing force to cancel out some the recoil. There are different methods used to do this (i.e. mercury. spring loaded ect.). There would be a number of factors that would affect how well they work. The two biggest would be the amount of recoil and rifle weight.
I have only ever installed the one I mention above and this was more to add weight into butt of the stock to balance out the rifle rather then for its recoil reducing properties. (the device was a the right shape and weight to fit into the stock). I think the right stock shape and adequate rifle weight for calibre does more to help manage recoil then anything else.

my two cents worth.
 
Not much on muzzle breaks or mag-na-porting either. Personally think they are a very big waste of time on anything less than a 416 Barrett for sniping. Besides the massive noise that they produce, which is part of the venting process for the reduced barrel jumping. Since I am not sniping and looking to be able to maintain a sight picture on a DG for quick follow-up, I will stick with the recoil reducer in the butt stock. May just have to get one of each and try them out. One Edwards and one Dead Mule. Thanks for the replies and insights.
 
lcq,
I have to agree, I don't like muzzle brakes at all. The idea of recoil reducing devices is to use the rifles inertia under recoil to produce a opposing force to cancel out some the recoil. There are different methods used to do this (i.e. mercury. spring loaded ect.). There would be a number of factors that would affect how well they work. The two biggest would be the amount of recoil and rifle weight.
I have only ever installed the one I mention above and this was more to add weight into butt of the stock to balance out the rifle rather then for its recoil reducing properties. (the device was a the right shape and weight to fit into the stock). I think the right stock shape and adequate rifle weight for calibre does more to help manage recoil then anything else.

my two cents worth.

Still can't quite figure it out. Once the rifle starts to move backwards the spring/weight assy compresses. It would seem that you are still moving the same mass spring or dead weight so the inertia would be the same. It has been 35 years since college physics so I may be all wet.

You nailed it on stock shape and weight. I have a Tikka T3 in 300 wsm that never beats me black and blue like a Parker I had in 7mm mag, worst stock in the world. I would prefer a slightly heavier barrel on the Tikka but it isn't a target rifle.
 

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