Parker-Hale 30-06 new furniture

Speedbattle999

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Hi ,
After a while could handle to have a custom made walnut stock for my 30-06 Parker-Hale to complete my P-H package.
Walnut stock
Hogue stock
Arch angel stock .
Nothings feels like a walnut stock in hand and how beautiful is that , cheers
 
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Very nice. Thanks for sharing.

I recently purchased a Parker Hale 1200 in 270 as a project rifle from a fellow AH member who was helping a deceased friend's family sell some firearms. The rifle had been in storage a number of years and needed a good cleaning and the stock refinished.

I replaced the original 4X scope with a Leupold 3x9x50 I had sitting in the safe. The spacing between front and rear bases wasn't very friendly toward modern day scopes. I ended up buying the weaver extended front base for Mauser action to get it to work. It doesn't allow me to have the scope back as far as I'd prefer but much better to before. I see what you have and may look for something similar. If you can share make/manu I'd appreciate.

I need to find a new recoil pad as the original is solid as a rock, and, the little white diamond shape piece on the bottom of the grip is missing. I'm guessing I'll have to make my own replacement. The original PH sling is in pretty poor condition but I am doing my best to recondition it.

The trigger pull isn't terrible, about 4 lbs, but it is a little rough. I haven't made any adjustments and probably won't.

Yesterday I took the rifle to the range to see how it performed. After a few hiccups getting the scope zeroed at 25 yards, I moved to the 50 yards to do a little more fine tuning. Using a variety of hand loads, I found the rifle liked them all, holding very tight groups with each. Hornaday SST, Nosler BT, Federal Trophy Bonded, and Remington Core-Loks I've had for years. Given how tight each bullet shot, I'm uncertain which I'll select as the preferred bullet. Next range visit I'll move to the 100 yards and see what it does.

I wasn't familiar with Parker Hale before getting this rifle. My research showed it was built on a Spanish 98 Mauser action. They were known to be decent shooters. One source said they were sold by JC Penney back in the day, mid 60's. It has been a fun little project restoring the rifle. And, I'm more than pleased with the end result. A lightweight, accurate little rifle that should be good for hunting whitetails.
 
Thanks , it is a very nice platform as Mauser 98 . Using Archangel 98 stock got me to a very nice performance for 30-06 . And using a one peace picatiny rail again for M98 which bolt on process made everything easy . (Contessa brand from Italy) . As far as scope Vortex venom , my best record was 800 m , group of 10 cm .
With milsurplus ammo 150 gr full metal . Unknown powder. Drop of 4.5 mill on reticle . I hope you enjoy the rifle .
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Very nice rifle. You can get rid of that rail for either two piece bases or a more asthetic one-piece. The scope has very long tube so you won't have any trouble putting it on whichever base you choose. I have Warne QD rings and very pleased with them on both my plains game 30-06 Springfield and 404J Mauser. They are fairly reasonable price and good quality. Pachmayer Decelerator would be my choice for replacement recoil pad. Solid without the cross-hatching or white line. Since it has trigger block safety, I would assume the trigger is aftermarket adjustable. Pull the action from stock and have a look. Also, check to make sure action is bedded. If not, that should be your first fix. If full length bedded, and that was very common back in J.C. Penney days, then remove bedding in barrel channel back to chamber. I think it will be easier to replace that grip cap than repair it. You have a large knot ahead of the bolt that needs filling. Look inside the magazine well to make sure the stock is not compromised. If okay, then fill the knot. Use epoxy that is dyed. You can find the pigments sold online. It only takes a very small amount of pigment to color the epoxy. Don't use latex wood filler. No strength. In that situation it would probably come loose in short order. The rollover cheek piece is a relic from bell bottom jeans era. It doesnt bother me but as long as you're reworking the stock for new recoil pad and filling the knot, might want to consider trimming the rollover back to make the stock standard Monte Carlo. Personally, I would do everything to keep that stock. Nice looking wood (except the knot) with good checkering. Use chemical stripper and be careful with checkering. I use Linspeed oil finish. Good color and easy to work with. Just finished refinishing this 404J on 98 Mauser.
20240420_112851.jpg
 
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Very nice rifle. You can get rid of that rail for either two piece bases or a more asthetic one-piece. The scope has very long tube so you won't have any trouble putting it on whichever base you choose. I have Warne QD rings and very pleased with them on both my plains game 30-06 Springfield and 404J Mauser. They are fairly reasonable price and good quality. Pachmayer Decelerator would be my choice for replacement recoil pad. Solid without the cross-hatching or white line. Since it has trigger block safety, I would assume the trigger is aftermarket adjustable. Pull the action from stock and have a look. Also, check to make sure action is bedded. If not, that should be your first fix. If full length bedded, and that was very common back in J.C. Penney days, then remove bedding in barrel channel back to chamber. I think it will be easier to replace that grip cap than repair it. You have a large knot ahead of the bolt that needs filling. Look inside the magazine well to make sure the stock is not compromised. If okay, then fill the knot. Use epoxy that is dyed. You can find the pigments sold online. It only takes a very small amount of pigment to color the epoxy. Don't use latex wood filler. No strength. In that situation it would probably come loose in short order. The rollover cheek piece is a relic from bell bottom jeans era. It doesnt bother me but as long as you're reworking the stock for new recoil pad and filling the knot, might want to consider trimming the rollover back to make the stock standard Monte Carlo. Personally, I would do everything to keep that stock. Nice looking wood (except the knot) with good checkering. Use chemical stripper and be careful with checkering. I use Linspeed oil finish. Good color and easy to work with. Just finished refinishing this 404J on 98 Mauser.
View attachment 613994
Thanks for advice , knot is naturally filled with darker color it is solid , and nothing inside the wood .rail is higher than I expected but two peace rail not my type , I might switch to Leopold two peace .for the rollover I was trying to stay as (original) I could . By the way nice set up on your rifle .
IMG_0182.jpeg
 
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Thanks for advice , knot is naturally filled with darker color it is solid , and nothing inside the wood .rail is higher than I expected but two peace rail not my type , I might switch to Leopold two peace .for the rollover I was trying to stay as (original) I could . By the way nice set up on your rifle .View attachment 614005
Yes, that rail is way too high. I can send you a PM re where I found the very low one-piece base I opted for. It works with any Weaver/p-rail friendly rings. Is your receiver tapped for three holes or four? Below is the long discontinued Weaver one-piece base on my Mauser. Only two rings slots instead of the countless ones on tacticool p-rail. Probably the same vintage as your JC Penneys rifle. This base also has cutout for loading magazine from the top.
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20240415_104512.jpg

Pachmayer still sells the old style White Line recoil pads if you want to keep your gun original. I think they can be ordered from Lyman. Above photos were taken after installing crossbolts but before refinishing the stock. Note that the guy who installed (poorly!) this recoil pad, painted the white line black. It is a trap shotgun pad but right LOP so I left it on the gun ... for now. Restored the white line.
 
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That stock on Parker is beautiful.
 

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