No longer a 375 H&H Virgin

[William W.]

In preparation for my Fall American Bison hunt, I commenced zeroing my two CZ550 Safari rifles in 375 H&H. Using two PACT recoil pads, I shot 40-rounds without a sore shoulder. I also chronographed a test load with 80-grains of Win 780 at 2460 fps with a Sierra 300-gran bullet. I will look at adding a coupole more grains of powder to increase the velocity.

 

[PHOENIX PHIL]

And so it begins...... If that round is shooting accurately, no need to make it faster, unless of course the accuracy holds!

 

[CAustin]

Sounds to me like your there William. What kind of groupings were you getting??

 

[matt85]

bits of advice,

use a lead sled to zero the rifle, its easier on your shoulder and much faster. I have used one for all calibers up to a 505 Gibbs throwing a 600gr bullet at 2250fps without any effect on the rifle (the 505 did end up breaking the lead sled though). with a 375 you will find the lead sled to be a god send.

a load to try is 75gr of Winchester 760, I used this load under a 300gr Hornady BTSP which is somewhat similar to the 300gr sierra.

I would probably use a better bullet for bison, they aren't exactly soft skinny animals and the Sierra's are very soft. if cost of bullet is a big deal then Barnes aren't expensive and will work well (I recommend the 270gr TSX).

-matt

 

[sierraone]

Unless you are a tinkerer and a reloading fanatic, don't fix what's not broke!!!

 

[CAustin]

Unless you are a tinkerer and a reloading fanatic, don't fix what's not broke!!!

Exactly!

 

[Desperatezulu]

Unless you are a tinkerer and a reloading fanatic, don't fix what's not broke!!!

Is there anyone who reloads that isn't guilty of this?

 

[cpr0312]

Best of luck on the upcoming bison hunt!

 

[William W.]

All: thanks for your comments; this is a great forum. I started with the Sierras as a cheap way to get to the velocity that I wanted for a 300-grain bullet when there are zero loads for discontinued, slow-burning 780. I wanted to get to 2500 fps to match the discontinued Remington Swift A-Frame ammunition as a guideline. I got a 100-yard grouping within 2-inches off my F-Class bipod. I have some Woodleigh softpoints that I intend to shoot. My bison is about the closest that I may get to a "Dugga Boy" in the Selous for that once-in-lifetime hunt.

 

[William W.]

One my first firing, I was awaiting a freight-train recoil, but was pleasantly surprised. There wa some significant push-back (more than 300 Winchesters), but not vicious. I think that I can really like these rifles. I mounted 2.5-10 Nikon scopes in detachable mounts so that I could use the iron sights if need be. I cut rectangular holes in the bottoms of the sun shields to fit over the sights.

 

[sheephunterab]

bits of advice,

use a lead sled to zero the rifle, its easier on your shoulder and much faster. I have used one for all calibers up to a 505 Gibbs throwing a 600gr bullet at 2250fps without any effect on the rifle (the 505 did end up breaking the lead sled though). with a 375 you will find the lead sled to be a god send.



-matt

While not bad advice, it seems every time I go into our gunsmith's shop there's another rifle with a broken stock lying there....the victim on a Lead Sled. On big recoil rifles especially, I'd highly recommend backing off the weight on the sled to allow for some recoil.

 

[Shawn.54]

I must admit that when I got my .375 Ruger that I was thinking I should get a lead sled.
But the more I thought about it the less I wanted it. The energy of the recoil is still there even when you can't feel it. And if the sled doesn't move something has too. And that something is the stock.
So I'll shoot less from the bench to save the pain and shoot more from sticks trees and fence posts and free hand.
Good shooting to you.
Shawn

 

[PHOENIX PHIL]

And if the sled doesn't move something has too. And that something is the stock.

Or the barreled action. The action screws mostly stop this, but there's a reason for bedding a rifle which is to stop any movement not in concert with the stock. If the action is moving differently than the stock, it can impact the stock. Of particular concern is at the tang from what I understand.

 

[sheephunterab]

The bulk I've seen broken were at the grip.

 

[Shawn.54]

When I was a younger lad I had a buddy who thought it would be funny to put a 12 gage butt on a tree and pull the trigger.
As we walked out of the woods he carried barrel action splinters in one hand and butt in the other only I was laughing.

 

[PHOENIX PHIL]

When I was a younger lad I had a buddy who thought it would be funny to put a 12 gage butt on a tree and pull the trigger.
As we walked out of the woods he carried barrel action splinters in one hand and butt in the other only I was laughing.

Simple matter of momentum/energy transfer, something has to take it.

 

[Shawn.54]

Before he did it I warned against it but you know how smart we are when we are teenagers.
He was making fun of me for complaining that a shot I took with my shoulder against a tree hurt.
Now with this in mind when I'm sitting at the base of a tree with my 375 Ruger I will lean forward before touching her off

 

[8x68]

When I contacted Cladwell to tell them how much weight I should put on the Leadsled DFT when shooting my 450 Rigby they said "do not go above 75lbs". The stock will have a much greater chance of failure. I have 3 x 25lb bags of lead shot that I use as ballast. They also suggested that the 'sled should still be able to move under fire even with 75lbs on it (I have 2 bags in the tray and one on the rear of the frame). When I fire my 450 it still moves back 6". I have a wooden board that I clamp to the shooting benches that we have at the range which are made of concrete. The board is a bit more "slippery" than the concrete and allows freer movement. Adding too much weight, and inhibiting movement will compromise the 'sleds ability to perform effectively. When I shoot my 416, 404, 375H&H I back down to 50lbs and only have one bag of weight up front. The other I lay across the back of the frame. This stops it from tilting froward but also allows the 'sled to move. I would like to know how many of those cracked stocks that were caused by devices like Leadsled's actually had crossbolts. I had a Ruger MKII in 338 WM that had no crossbolt which cracked behind the trigger guard. The Leadsled wasn't invented back then (it was called ego....I can take more than you can). I was young and thought it "cool" to shoot 275gr & 300gr loads. Do it enough times and I guess something has to give. When you're 18-20yrs old you have the IQ of a peanut and recoil...BRING IT ON!
I still have the IQ of a peanut (according to my wife............er what's that dear....you say everybody.....OK then a unanimous verdict) but me no like recoil as much (and look at what I shoot!)

 

[Rob404]

bits of advice,

use a lead sled to zero the rifle, its easier on your shoulder and much faster. I have used one for all calibers up to a 505 Gibbs throwing a 600gr bullet at 2250fps without any effect on the rifle (the 505 did end up breaking the lead sled though). with a 375 you will find the lead sled to be a god send.

a load to try is 75gr of Winchester 760, I used this load under a 300gr Hornady BTSP which is somewhat similar to the 300gr sierra.

I would probably use a better bullet for bison, they aren't exactly soft skinny animals and the Sierra's are very soft. if cost of bullet is a big deal then Barnes aren't expensive and will work well (I recommend the 270gr TSX).

-matt

I use a 300g Sierra with 75G of Win 760 and recorded 2583fps and great accuracy