New to reloading belted magnums…

BillyJack1975

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I’ve been reloading nearly 15 years and I’m just getting everything set up for reloading 375 H&H. I’ve got an RCBS single stage press and dies. I’ve read in a couple sites where belted magnum cases can only be reloaded a couple of times due to the expansion of the brass forward of the belt? I’ve got FL dies, and I’ve also read that setting up the died for belted magnums is a big different because of the belt.
I heard that the collet die from innovative technologies is a necessity for reloading these cases as it’s the only die that can truly FL size brass down to the belt itself. Before I start pressing bullets, I just wanted to hear from the group here that does reload these cases.

Gracias
 
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I have reloaded over 1000 rounds of 375 H&H over the years using nothing but a standard full length sizing die.
The trick I learned is to set your sizing die so that instead of firmly touching the shell holder it comes up about a dime's thickness short. You will have to play with your set up and rifle to get this setting right.
The idea is to re-size just enough so that your rifle will chamber and close smoothly - but no more. This will allow the case to head space on the shoulder. It substantially increases brass life and has caused me no problems hunting.

I should also say that case head stretch is what limits the life of 375 H&H brass and you should learn to look for the bright frosted line that develops in well used brass. I toss brass when I see this line.

Brass will also last longer is some rifles then other depending on the chamber dimensions.

I have also read (and heeded) the advice that brass will last longer if the first shot is a moderate load (like starting load rather than max). This allows for a less violent stretch of the new brass as it 'fire forms" to your chamber.

Good luck with your rifle. I really enjoy 375 H&H.
 
I bump the shoulder back on practice (more than 1x fired) brass and essentially ignore the belt. Brass used on hunts is always new, so I don't have real concerns about bulges in front of the belt. I have had to use the Willis resizing die on a few pieces of practice brass over the years (prob 4-6x reloaded).
 
Myself and have been reloading for well over 50 years....on new brass size and then trim to proper length load and shoot. I never use new brass to hunt with if anything is going to happen it will happen the first time firing.
For second firing I only resize enought for easy chambering, so the sizing die is not brought down to the shell holder. I test resizing with the round to make sure the bolt will close easy, screwing die down until it closes easy. The die is lock and the setting is always used for that rifle only.
You can screw the sizing die down to the shell holder and the cases with fit any and every rifle in that chambering. But doing it my way the cases will fit your rifle but may not fit every rifle.
 
There is no real trick to loading belted magnum brass and the 375 is no different than any of the other belted magnums.

When they were developed the idea was to headspace on the belt, well come to find out you will get longer case life if you headspace on the shoulder instead.

While I haven't loaded any 375's I have loaded thousands of other belted magnums with all of them just getting the shoulder bumped back far enough that the bolt closes fairly easy on a loaded round. I have also found that if I get 5 reloads out of a case I am doing good.
 
1. Neck size only.
2. Anneal brass every two firings.
3. Only bump shoulder back a few thousandths if bolt closure is snug.
4. Use Hornady (or equivalent) OAL tool to set bullet ogive off lands.
5. Keep fired brass with specific rifle.

This approach for any belted round, including the .300 H&H, has the cartridge headspacing off the shoulder not the belt alleviating case stretch in front of belt.
 
I have no problems FLS my 375H&H, 7mmRM or other belted cartridges. As others have mentioned, just adjust your die to headspace on the shoulder and ignore the belt.
 
The Belted Magnums are Head Spaced off the belt but it’s best to size off the shoulder. I resize brass until I see evidence of probable case seperation or neck splitting.

Larry Willis’s collet die is a very useful tool to have. It is a gauge and die for detecting and correcting case swell, which happens. I have attached his instructions for using his tool.
 

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I have always wondered about the belt and then just neck sized or partial sizing..all this has been stated above. If all this is true and I think it is, then wouldn't a belted magnum have 2 headspacing point. The primarily would be the shoulder (reloads) and the belt being the secondary point?
 
I have reloaded and am still reload some different belted cartridges by using the same procedure than with rimless or rimmed cartridges. I have never taken the belt into account in my approach, that without any problems.

However, there are differences in the wear and tear of the belted cartridges depending on whether the belt is necessary to hold the cartridge in the chamber or the belt is only there for decoration and advertising.
 
Belts vary in length, I've seen as much as 15 thousands over and the belt cuts In yhchamber take this into account. Therefore head space should be on the shoulder
 
I have full length resized many .375 cases without issue. It's the best way to use that old brass fired in another gun and get more practice done. I do recommend using Imperial case wax.
 
I appreciate all of the feedback. I just resized about 40 pieces of once fired brass with my FL dies, just how I’ve been doing all of my non belted cases. Ran them through my model 70 and they seem fine. I don’t plan on reloading its brass more than 3-4 times. Hopefully I don’t experience donuting forward of the belt as I’ve read can occur.
On to the next step of load development!
 
My preferred method of adjusting a full length sizing die is the same of belted and non-belted cases. I take a new case and expand the throat sufficient to produce a false shoulder. Then I run the case part way into full length die so that the front of the neck is now the diameter to hold a bullet. Run the cartridge as far as it will easily go into the chamber. It shouldn't go all the way in. then it's a trial and error of running the case a little farther each time. When you can push the bolt forward and then with resistance, turn it down, that is the position to adjust your die. Your cases will be properly sized whether belted or not.
 
I’ve been reloading nearly 15 years and I’m just getting everything set up for reloading 375 H&H. I’ve got an RCBS single stage press and dies. I’ve read in a couple sites where belted magnum cases can only be reloaded a couple of times due to the expansion of the brass forward of the belt? I’ve got FL dies, and I’ve also read that setting up the died for belted magnums is a big different because of the belt.
I heard that the collet die from innovative technologies is a necessity for reloading these cases as it’s the only die that can truly FL size brass down to the belt itself. Before I start pressing bullets, I just wanted to hear from the group here that does reload these cases.

Gracias
Reloaded 375hh for over 40 years. Nothing tricky. I get several reloads from a case. Some good suggestions in comments. Have fun
 
The advantage to only neck-size and keep that brass with the specific rifle is when the round is chambered cartridge has perfect fit in chamber and bullet is centered with axis of bore.
 
The
Larry Willis Belted Magnum Collet Resizing Die
It’s not needed to reload and I did it for 20+ years without it; but now that I have one it’s a god sent item!

It’s good for all belted magnum except a couple of the Weatherby calibers, but it also does most Weatherby calibers.

They suggest imperial sizing wax and it works great.
 
Imperial Sizing Wax if you don't use it you should be using it ! A little dab on each case, a little contaner will last 1000's of case it the best made !
 
Yes, Imperial Sizing Die Wax is a Gold Standard. Good idea to keep Hornady One Shot Case Lube on hand as well.
 

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