New Standard Blaser R8 Stock With St - Standard Caliber Bolt - Which 3 Or 4 Barrels For All Occasions?

Justbryan

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I am thinking about trying to set-up my standard Blaser stock (ST- standard caliber bolt) as a travel rifle. Which 3 or 4 barrels would you suggest for all types of hunts.

I have been thinking about using only a standard caliber bolt!
1. 22-250 for night hunting and tiny ten. (prefer 223 but it takes a mini bolt)
2. 6.5 CM for smaller African and North American hunting (already purchased used)
3. 9.3 x 62 for larger African and North American hunting (prefer 375 but not a ST bolt)
4. Later, I would probably want to add a MA bolt and a 7mm Rem Mag, or 300 WSM, or 300 WM barrel. An option would be the 308 or 30-06 as a compromise.

Which base and scope rings work the best? Looking at Talley, Contessa, Blaser but hard to find.
I am also struggling with scope selection. I really want Z6i or Z8i but the cost is more than I want to spend. I wish the Z3 BT was illuminated but may go with it anyway. My second choice would be the Vortex PST.
 

Opposite Pole

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I am thinking about trying to set-up my standard Blaser stock (ST- standard caliber bolt) as a travel rifle. Which 3 or 4 barrels would you suggest for all types of hunts.

I have been thinking about using only a standard caliber bolt!
1. 22-250 for night hunting and tiny ten. (prefer 223 but it takes a mini bolt)
2. 6.5 CM for smaller African and North American hunting (already purchased used)
3. 9.3 x 62 for larger African and North American hunting (prefer 375 but not a ST bolt)
4. Later, I would probably want to add a MA bolt and a 7mm Rem Mag, or 300 WSM, or 300 WM barrel. An option would be the 308 or 30-06 as a compromise.

Which base and scope rings work the best? Looking at Talley, Contessa, Blaser but hard to find.
I am also struggling with scope selection. I really want Z6i or Z8i but the cost is more than I want to spend. I wish the Z3 BT was illuminated but may go with it anyway. My second choice would be the Vortex PST.

If you’re planning to add a magnum bolt in the future it might be worth going with 375H&H instead of 9.3x62. If I understand correctly 9.3 is not universally DG legal (nothing wrong with the calibre I quite like 9.3s).

If you have a 6.5CM and 9.3/375 is there a need for 308/30-06? What will it achieve the other two won’t? Far be it for me to try to talk someone out of buying an extra firearm or barrel but that extra barrel+scope money can be used to get better glass for the other calibres.

I use scope mounts from both Contessa (with Contessa rings) and Blaser with rail mounts as well as Blaser rings. I don’t really have preference. They both work fine. If you end up going with Swarovski consider getting the scope with rail mount rather than rings. Easier to install, always perfectly level and less to go wrong.

My $0.02 worth.
 

JanP

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Forget the 22-250 for tiny ten. You want them as a trophy I hope or just destroy and kill? Took some of mine with 308 FMJ ,the others with a shotgun. With the Creed and a good bullet you should be ok for tiny ten and the rest. 9.3 for heavier PG and if you want to go magnum, go for 458Lott. Up to and including elephant is no problem. Perfect Scope? Schmidt &Bender Classic does not burn your pockets but is competition grade!
 

Justbryan

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If you’re planning to add a magnum bolt in the future it might be worth going with 375H&H instead of 9.3x62.
I agree. I was trying to keep down the cost but would prefer the extra bullet weight of the 375 H&H.
Forget the 22-250 for tiny ten. You want them as a trophy I hope or just destroy and kill? Took some of mine with 308 FMJ ,the others with a shotgun. With the Creed and a good bullet you should be ok for tiny ten and the rest. 9.3 for heavier PG and if you want to go magnum, go for 458Lott. Up to and including elephant is no problem. Perfect Scope? Schmidt &Bender Classic does not burn your pockets but is competition grade!
I would definitely have to download for the 22-250 which I have researched. I would prefer the 223.

I would like to use the SR- Swaro Rail but there are no less expensive Z3 SR or Vortex rail scopes.
 

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Buy the extra bolt and skip one of the barrels.

Using standard weight barrels, you can easily have a .375, a thirty, and a 6.5 of some sort. Unless you are a dedicated varmint hunter the 22/250 is a bad choice for smaller African game. Simply too fast and destructive. I currently have .375, 300 Win Mag, 6.5x55, and .257 wby. I would buy another but can't think what it might be that I don't already have covered.
 

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Buy the extra bolt and skip one of the barrels.

Using standard weight barrels, you can easily have a .375, a thirty, and a 6.5 of some sort. Unless you are a dedicated varmint hunter the 22/250 is a bad choice for smaller African game. Simply too fast and destructive. I currently have .375, 300 Win Mag, 6.5x55, and .257 wby. I would buy another but can't think what it might be that I don't already have covered.
I am probably going to do exactly that Red Leg. I will probable put together a 6.5CM, 300 WM, and 375 H&H set. This is my preference also but I was trying to save a little cash.

I will probably try to use rail mounted scopes if I can find the scopes/mounts.
 

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I am thinking about trying to set-up my standard Blaser stock (ST- standard caliber bolt) as a travel rifle. Which 3 or 4 barrels would you suggest for all types of hunts.

I have been thinking about using only a standard caliber bolt!
1. 22-250 for night hunting and tiny ten. (prefer 223 but it takes a mini bolt)
2. 6.5 CM for smaller African and North American hunting (already purchased used)
3. 9.3 x 62 for larger African and North American hunting (prefer 375 but not a ST bolt)
4. Later, I would probably want to add a MA bolt and a 7mm Rem Mag, or 300 WSM, or 300 WM barrel. An option would be the 308 or 30-06 as a compromise.

Which base and scope rings work the best? Looking at Talley, Contessa, Blaser but hard to find.
I am also struggling with scope selection. I really want Z6i or Z8i but the cost is more than I want to spend. I wish the Z3 BT was illuminated but may go with it anyway. My second choice would be the Vortex PST.
First of all the R8 is so much fun setting up!
1. .22-250 is not a good choice for the tinys. There won’t be anything left. I’ve used .223/5.56 Barnes 70gr very successfully on many of them. It’s no problem to change the bolt head.
2. Good choice
3. No get .375!
4. Yes 7Mag or .300win.
Get the rail mount Swaro scopes. You have a Blaser why go with rings?
 

Philip Glass

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I am probably going to do exactly that Red Leg. I will probable put together a 6.5CM, 300 WM, and 375 H&H set. This is my preference also but I was trying to save a little cash.

I will probably try to use rail mounted scopes if I can find the scopes/mounts.
Check Europtic they sometimes have demo scopes for less. I bought a Schmidt & Bender for my sons 7mm R8.
 

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+1 on the .300wm, .375h&h. The bolt face is a small cost of the whole package. It is good advice to start with fewer barrels and better glass.

I find the .22-250 to be a surprisingly violent hunting round. Anything close gets really torn up. It is an expert’s hunting caliber for head/neck shots. While I aspire to be that good, my day job is a substantial impediment to that goal.

you mention a plan to add a magnum bolt later. If getting a .300 WM barrel will stop use of the .30-06, there is your answer.
 

Christot

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As some countries like Namibia have a 7mm minimum requirement I would recommend something like 6XC, 7x64 and 9,3x62 if it has to be 3 barrels. But you may easily pass the 6XC.
 

One Day...

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Logical progressions...

We obviously all have our own opinion, and all opinions are by definition partial, so without any pretense that mine is better than others', here is my feedback...
  • 22-250 lacks bullet weight for anything but smallest critters, and its varmint bullets damage small critters...
  • 6.5 CM lacks speed for killing power at the range folks use it. It is great at punching paper way out there, but it litters both African and American hunting fields with wounded animals that are hit but not killed at ranges past 300 yards (e.g. Kudu, Elk)...
  • 9.3x62 is great, but .375 H&H is better...
My own R8 battery includes:
  • "Light" --- .257 Wby (100 gr TTSX). Likely one of the very best .25/.26 out there with a long track record of laser-flat trajectory and incredible killing power way out of proportion with the caliber...
  • "Medium" --- .300 Wby (165 gr TTSX / 180 gr AFrame). Likely the very best .300 when considering reach, power, ammo availability, etc.
  • "Semi-heavy" --- .375 H&H (300 gr TTSX / AFrame). What to say that has not been said a million times. Simply the best "one-rifle safari" caliber...
My DG "heavy" / "stopper" is a Krieghoff .470 NE double, but if I did not own one, I reckon that there would be a 4th barrel in my R8 battery:
  • "Heavy" --- .458 Lott (500 gr TSX / Solid). Thor's own hammer... and can also shoot milder .458 Win ammo in the chamber.
After having owned and used most all in-between calibers (.26, .27, .28, .33), I think that the progression .25, .30, .375, .45 makes the most sense...

Note that all four calibers take a single bolt head, and that all four calibers will likely be commercially loaded and widely available in the foreseeable future.

I agree that the cost of the bolt heads should not be the determining factor, but in keeping with one bolt head:
  • traditionalist would likely prefer the .300 Win to the .300 Wby - and this is just fine;
  • the current 6.5 fad may have come just in time to save the .264 Win, which is a very fine cartridge with modern loads...
  • one could also make a case for the 7 mm Rem Mag as a "light" with 120 gr TTSX, in which case the "medium" could be a .338 Win, and the "heavy" could be a .416 Rem.
The .28, .33, .416 is also a progression that makes a lot of sense to me... It is likely a little heavy at the "light" end, and a little light at the "heavy" end, but it does it all with 3 barrels...

I also have a .223 Rem barrel & bolt head that I use for regular practice. It allows practicing at 300+ yards, which the .22 LR does not, and it is still very economical to shoot often enough and as much as needed to maintain top proficiency (think 100 to 200 rounds/month)...
 
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My choice for 4 barrel set would be:

1) 223 rem - small game, of "tiny ten", and similar

2) Something in .30 cal, plains game:
308 win (mild recoil), or 30-06 (old fashion choice) or 300 win mag (longer reach, better punch)

3) 338 win mag - heavy plains game, up to Zebra, Eland, optionally DG leopard

4) DG caliber: 375 H&H or 404 jef, or 416 Rigby
 

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Get the rail mount Swaro scopes. You have a Blaser why go with rings?

This is not limited to Blaser rifles, there are rail mounts for other systems made amongst others by Recknagel.

Most European glass can be head with rails as well. S&B, Zeiss and Leica share the same rail type now, S&B can be had with Zeiss or their own convex rail.
 

Opposite Pole

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22-250 lacks bullet weight for anything but smallest critters, and its varmint bullets damage small critters...

Blaser’s 22-250 barrels come in 1 in 14 twist rate and as such are made for lighter/shorter bullets.
 

Professor Mawla

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1 ) .243 Winchester ( tiny ten , small antelopes )
2 ) .30-06 Springfield ( general use )
3 ) .338 Winchester Magnum ( elk , Sambhar deer , moose , eland )
4 ) .416 Remington Magnum ( dangerous game )

Yes ; I believe that the above combination would be a good one for hunting in any part of the earth .
 

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If it were me, I'd stick with the magnum bolt head and skip the standard calibers IF.....you plan to go that route eventually anyway. You can really narrow it down to two barrels if you'd like. A 7mm Rem Mag and a 375 H&H will handle anything that needs handling in the US or Africa. Load the 7mm with 140-160 grain bullets for all normal sized plains game, and use the 375 for everything else. If you want more gun than a 375 in the future, you'll need another receiver anyway, so burn that bridge when you get to it.
 

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+1 with @Red Leg, @One Day..., @TOBY458 and several others.

One bolt head (MA) and 3 calibers will get it done.
Standard synthetic stock with aluminum receiver.
My choice would be 257WBY for smaller antelope.
7mmRM/300WM for mid-sized game.
375H&H for Eland and up through DG.
If you added the kickstop to your order, it may help if you are worried about recoil.

I have rail mounted scoped for my Blaser and really like them.
 

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I have to concur with what others have said about the .22/250. As the Blaser barrel has a 1-14” twist, heavier bullets are out of the question. However, you could have a custom barrel built with a fast twist. Even then, there are better options for the tiny 10.
The 6.5 is fine but IMO not a long range hunting round, especially with good hunting bullets (Swift, Barnes).
The 9.3 is and excellent choice, but when you say “larger” game, does that include buffalo? If it does, I’d definitely spend the extra $$$ and get a magnum bolt head and buy a .375 barrel.
Scopes are a personal choice. I think a Leupold VX-5 would be a good illuminated option in the price range you’re looking at. Also consider Trijicon or the Nightforce SHV.
 

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.4 something or 500 Jeff if you can handle it.
.375 H&H
.300 something or one of my favourites the 7x64 Brenneke

No need for 4
 

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