Needing pre-64 model 70 repair

SkullKeeper

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Gentlemen, I have a Pre-64 model 70 in 270 featherweight that needs work. It will drop the firing pin even with the gun on safe if the bolt is slightly raised from its 100% closed position. I bought this at an auction so it’s mine to keep. I’ve never loaded it since it’s obviously not safe. I want to sell the rifle but I can’t mindfully let it go in this condition. Thank you for any and all help.
 

AZDAVE

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Sounds like someone tried to adjust the trigger to light. The pre 64 trigger is very easy to adjust. you can find several youtube videos that show the process. If you aren't comfortable with doing it yourself, most any competent gunsmith should be able to take care of it for you.
 

deewayne2003

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I agree with AZDave.... probably an easy fix; but there is the odd chance that someone did something stupid and altered the parts.

Some people monkey with triggers, my personal opinion is that trigger work is better left to professional gunsmiths.
 

SkullKeeper

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Sounds like someone tried to adjust the trigger to light. The pre 64 trigger is very easy to adjust. you can find several youtube videos that show the process. If you aren't comfortable with doing it yourself, most any competent gunsmith should be able to take care of it for you.
The thing that throws me is that even with the safety on it will let go of the firing pin if you as much as breath on the bolt handle (and when opening the bolt afterwards it feels like something is binding and it’s hard to open) I could understand too light of a trigger if I flipped the safety off and it dropped the pin. I’m inclined to think there’s a worn bolt part out of tolerance
 

SkullKeeper

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I agree with AZDave.... probably an easy fix; but there is the odd chance that someone did something stupid and altered the parts.

Some people monkey with triggers, my personal opinion is that trigger work is better left to professional gunsmiths.
See see my response to AZDAVE above. Thanks for your input !
 

rookhawk

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Great answers above. The diagnosis above is most likely and zero cost repair. Worst case scenario is someone filed on the cocking piece trying to trick out the gun. That’s less than $100 to fix, all in.

Of all the horrible things that can happen with used rifles you might buy, your problem is one of the least concerning to fix. Your financial exposure here is minimal.
 

fourfive8

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^^ Agreed
It could one of a couple of things and chances are very good it's a relatively easy fix. Win 70s are not complex nor difficult to work on, but the interaction among the safety, trigger and sear is an absolute relationship! Most gunsmith's may claim to have this knowledge, unfortunately many don't. Do some poking around online and on the phone and find a gunsmith who understands Win 70s. All original, featherweight 270 Win 70s are well worth fixing.
 

SkullKeeper

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^^ Agreed
It could one of a couple of things and chances are very good it's a relatively easy fix. Win 70s are not complex nor difficult to work on, but the interaction among the safety, trigger and sear is an absolute relationship! Most gunsmith's may claim to have this knowledge, unfortunately many don't. Do some poking around online and on the phone and find a gunsmith who understands Win 70s. All original, featherweight 270 Win 70s are well worth fixing.
I’ll do that - much appreciated
 

Ray B

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I'm confused about the safety. In the first part you say that the firing pin drops even with the safety on, then later it fires when the safety is pushed to fire position. Is the firing pin held back when the safety is in full lock; when it is safe but bolt unlocked; when the safety is pushed from safe to fire?

If it is the first two, then there is a problem with the trigger and the safety, but if the rifle fires only when the safety is in fire, then it is a trigger adjustment. If so, it may not even be altered and the fix may be just a thorough cleaning, or it may be adjusting the three little nuts that adjust the trigger pull. Finally, it may be as noted above and the surface contacts of sear and trigger have been reduced to the point that it no longer functions properly- if so, replacement of the sear or trigger is an inexpensive cost.
 

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I'm confused about the safety. In the first part you say that the firing pin drops even with the safety on, then later it fires when the safety is pushed to fire position. Is the firing pin held back when the safety is in full lock; when it is safe but bolt unlocked; when the safety is pushed from safe to fire?

If it is the first two, then there is a problem with the trigger and the safety, but if the rifle fires only when the safety is in fire, then it is a trigger adjustment. If so, it may not even be altered and the fix may be just a thorough cleaning, or it may be adjusting the three little nuts that adjust the trigger pull. Finally, it may be as noted above and the surface contacts of sear and trigger have been reduced to the point that it no longer functions properly- if so, replacement of the sear or trigger is an inexpensive cost.
Ok to clarify - I said the firing pin drops when the gun is on safe IF the bolt is slightly moved from fully closed position...Also the firing pin drops if (the bolt is not touched from the fully closed position) and the safety is moved to fire position.
 

Ray B

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The first part needs some looking-in-to. If the safety is on and the bolt handle is moved, normally that would mean that the safety is in the middle position, but even in this position, moving the bolt handle should not release the firing pin. this would be a separate issue form the trigger. I think the safety problem would show if you dismantle the bolt and examine the interior of the bolt shroud. The inside part of the safety lever should make full contact with the back of the firing pin. Somehow the firing pin is being allowed to skip past the safety block. As noted, this is a separate issue from the trigger issue.
 

koodoo62

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The first part needs some looking-in-to. If the safety is on and the bolt handle is moved, normally that would mean that the safety is in the middle position, but even in this position, moving the bolt handle should not release the firing pin. this would be a separate issue form the trigger. I think the safety problem would show if you dismantle the bolt and examine the interior of the bolt shroud. The inside part of the safety lever should make full contact with the back of the firing pin. Somehow the firing pin is being allowed to skip past the safety block. As noted, this is a separate issue from the trigger issue.
Email Justin at pre64win.com. He will help you.
 

Firebird

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Easy and inexpensive to replace the whole trigger assembly (I always have a smith do trigger work tho) and the trigger is where I would start-worn down sear was the first thought that came to my mind. I believe that is a rifle worth fixing and hunting with-hard to beat!
 

SkullKeeper

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The first part needs some looking-in-to. If the safety is on and the bolt handle is moved, normally that would mean that the safety is in the middle position, but even in this position, moving the bolt handle should not release the firing pin. this would be a separate issue form the trigger. I think the safety problem would show if you dismantle the bolt and examine the interior of the bolt shroud. The inside part of the safety lever should make full contact with the back of the firing pin. Somehow the firing pin is being allowed to skip past the safety block. As noted, this is a separate issue from the trigger issue.
Exactly what I figured was happening- something out of tolerance. Thank you for your input
 

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