M1917 enfield/585 nyati barrel help

Hugh1234

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Hello I’m plaining on building a 585 nyati rifle on a m1917 enfield action.i am trying to buy a barrel for it from McGowen and I need help for the contour of the barrel.

I know that it needs to be a straight tapper barrel but when it comes to the shank and the muzzle dia I don’t know what the measurements should be.on mcgowens website almost all of the shank are 1.200 dia for there barrels .i have tried doing some research and what I mostly have found is that that is too small and that it needs to be in the 1.250- 1.350 range but i dont know if that’s accurate.

When it comes to the muzzle dia i have heard that 1 inch is safe but .889 is not. If that is the case then i dont know what front sights to get because thats too big for a NECG front sight which is what I plain on using.

Could some of you folks help me with the contour measurements for the McGowen barrel I plain on getting.

Thank you
 
I think there are 2 issues to consider here. A straight tapper barrel starting at 1.2" at the shank and tapering to .889" at the muzzle will easily be strong enough for the pressures generated.
But the real question is how heavy do you want the rifle to finish up to help dampen the recoil. And how does the rifle balance with a 1" muzzle diameter?
If you look at the Rigby & Jeffery barrel tapers, they have a lot of mass (diameter) from the shank to just before the barrel leaves the fore end wood, then there is a serious taper to the muzzle. This is to keep the mass between your hands to improve balance and handling.
Have you spoken to a person at McGowen to get their input?
 
I think there are 2 issues to consider here. A straight tapper barrel starting at 1.2" at the shank and tapering to .889" at the muzzle will easily be strong enough for the pressures generated.
But the real question is how heavy do you want the rifle to finish up to help dampen the recoil. And how does the rifle balance with a 1" muzzle diameter?
If you look at the Rigby & Jeffery barrel tapers, they have a lot of mass (diameter) from the shank to just before the barrel leaves the fore end wood, then there is a serious taper to the muzzle. This is to keep the mass between your hands to improve balance and handling.
Have you spoken to a person at McGowen to get their input?
I plain on having a 11-13 pound rifle.

I thought a straight or target taper would be ok because most of the pics iv seen of a 585 rifle all have that same type of barrel.

So the 1.200 shank and the .889 contour will be fine ?

I have not talked to anyone from there yet I just wanted to hear the opinions of the people on here before I placed an order.
 
So the 1.200 shank and the .889 contour will be fine ?
Strength wise.
But M17 front ring diameter is approximately1.32", I would have the barrel shank match the action front ring diameter to get as much mass as possible and still look OK. Personally, I would want a Rigby taper not a straight taper, but you need to understand what McGowan are capable of producing. Or if you get a bull barrel can your gunsmith cut the taper?
 
Strength wise.
But M17 front ring diameter is approximately1.32", I would have the barrel shank match the action front ring diameter to get as much mass as possible and still look OK. Personally, I would want a Rigby taper not a straight taper, but you need to understand what McGowan are capable of producing. Or if you get a bull barrel can your gunsmith cut the taper?
Ok so you think it would be better to get the bigger shank ?

I should just talk to ncgowen and see what they think.

What do you think is the ideal muzzle dia ?
 
I would definitely get the bigger shank. I just received a .404 barrel from PacNor for a 30 Express/1917 build, I had to pay a bit extra to get a 1.250 shank which is the minimum I would want for a 30/1917/P14, 1.3" would be better.
 
You have not said how long you intend to get the barrel.
With a Rigby profile and a 24"+ barrel I would be happy to go down to .800", but it all gets down to the total weight you want.
 
You have not said how long you intend to get the barrel.
With a Rigby profile and a 24"+ barrel I would be happy to go down to .800", but it all gets down to the total weight you want.
I actually haven’t decided yet I’m stuck between 23 and 22 inches and I don’t know which one.

I want to still be able to get 10k muzzle energy out of the shortest length possible. I’m pretty sure that I can still get 10k with the 23 inch but I’m not sure I can with a 22 inch barrel.

What do yall think it should be?
 
Alright and if I go with the rigby contour I should have a 1.3+ shank and a .800+ will be ok?
 
I would start at 24", as you can always cut it shorter, but you cannot put it back on.
@BlueFlyer
Nothing a bit of super glue won't fix.
Hold the bit you cut if with glue then run around the join with a good MIG welder, grind to make it look pretty, job done.
Accuracy my not be that good but you can add it back, just ask Bubba.
Bob
 
@Hugh1234 ,
I designed contours for the 577Trex and 585Nyati for potential customers of Matrix Gunsmithing to see "who's who in the zero". I focus on barrel stress, weight, balance. Even though these are "fat" cartridges, for the 585, the max psi is much easier to accommodate than the Rex and so the barrel is not unreasonable.
This is what i got for the 585:

1781825680678.png


all of this gobbledygook means something to me but for here, with 3 loaded cartridges, 5lbs barrel weight (including iron sights), 0.93lbs lead in the buttstock, the action and this barrel are able to handle
the rated psi. The load in the file was 49229psi as powder compression is getting up there.

Sure is a manly cartridge:) but scares me for the headspace.
1781826653441.jpeg
 
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