M14 birch stock + water/humidity

[WebleyGreene455]

Good evening all. I need a little advice on something, if you please.

My absolute favorite rifle in my collection is my M14. It was my college graduation gift, built on a new-made receiver and barrel from USGI parts with a M14E2 Automatic Rifle's pistol-gripped stock. Alas, a few of its components (the folding foregrip and the unique E2 buttpad assembly plus the available repro bipod and slip-on stabilizer) are not present but I don't really mind so much 'cause I have an idea for an improvised foregrip, I don't really want the bipod, and the stabilizer means I can't fix bayonets. Anyway, it looks very much like this:

Here's my problem. As you can see in the pic, and note from the title, it's got a birch stock on it. Now, I live in coastal GA where it's sometimes VERY humid, and plainly, I'm concerned about having that rifle (or any wood-stocked one, which is pretty much all of them except my XM16E1) out in the rain or an extra-humid day for fear of the stock getting warped or swollen or what-have-you.

Should I really be concerned about this? Can I do anything to help its water-resistance besides the tung oil it's already been finished with? Or am I just overly worried because of the whole "M14 and M40 sniper rifle stocks were replaced with fiberglass because the wood got all messed up in Vietnam's wet-as-everything environment" thing and should remember that wood-stocked rifles suffered all kinds of miserable conditions for hundreds of years and it's sturdier than I think (and is pretty unlikely to just up and break, too)?

I daresay more than a couple of members on here might've carried wood-stocked battle rifles of their own once upon a time in the 60s and 70s and keep on doing so with their hunting rifles now, so I'm hoping y'all can help put my fears to rest.

Kindest regards,
~~W.G.455

 

[35bore]

My advise? I would buy a synthetic (or if you can find an original fiberglass M14 stock) and have it to the side. Just in case humidity or weather WAS affecting accuracy.

From a personal point of view, as cool as your birch stock looks, and it is badass, I would try to find a government fiberglass stock and glass bed it. I know a lot of guys here have had good luck with their wood stocks, when they go from one place to another, but I'm not one of those guys. Bad luck I guess.

I've read there are some modern chassis systems for the 14's, believe it was magpul or promag makes them.

Hope I was at least somewhat helpful.

 

[JLF]

Where do you keep the M14?

 

[WebleyGreene455]

Where do you keep the M14?

On the rack with everything else? I'm not concerned about the humidity indoors, just outside if I happen to have it with me and it starts raining or whatever.

 

[R.M.C.]

Part of me says you better get another stock on that thing , but I think that bad ass wood stock should be alright for normal use. Most of the guys I've heard about it happening to were on ten day hunts in Alaska where they could not get the gun dry and clean for days at a time. Just my two cents but I'd use it. That's a sweet looking stock

 

[WebleyGreene455]

My advise? I would buy a synthetic (or if you can find an original fiberglass M14 stock) and have it to the side. Just in case humidity or weather WAS affecting accuracy.

From a personal point of view, as cool as your birch stock looks, and it is badass, I would try to find a government fiberglass stock and glass bed it. I know a lot of guys here have had good luck with their wood stocks, when they go from one place to another, but I'm not one of those guys. Bad luck I guess.

I've read there are some modern chassis systems for the 14's, believe it was magpul or promag makes them.

Hope I was at least somewhat helpful.

Well that was one of the options, yes. Either a Sage EBR chassis and turn it from an M14E2 to a M14 EBR-RI, at least for taking outside, or a now-discontinued McMillan M2A USMC DMR stock, which is basically the same profile as the birch E2 but in fiberglass.

 

[JLF]

On the rack with everything else? I'm not concerned about the humidity indoors, just outside if I happen to have it with me and it starts raining or whatever.

There are excellent quality, colorless lacquers that help preserve the wood ..... including beeswax ... to the metal parts, cloth moistened with WD-40 rejects moisture ..

 

[WebleyGreene455]

There are excellent quality, colorless lacquers that help preserve the wood ..... including beeswax ... to the metal parts, cloth moistened with WD-40 rejects moisture ..

That might could work alright. Metal parts are easier; it's all parkerizing and yeah, WD-40 and all could do it for that. It's just the wood I'm concerned with, even though I'm pretty sure that it wouldn't matter as much as I think. I mean, how many milsurp rifles still have their original wood and no problems with water damage after all these years, right?

 

[JLF]

With the lacquer it is impossible for the water to penetrate it, much less the humidity.

 

[WebleyGreene455]

With the lacquer it is impossible for the water to penetrate it, much less the humidity.

Then I'll sure look into that. I think I recall reading about something like it being used by the US Army to begin with, so I'll check into that as well to try and keep things fairly authentic to my gun.

 

[JLF]

Then I'll sure look into that. I think I recall reading about something like it being used by the US Army to begin with, so I'll check into that as well to try and keep things fairly authentic to my gun.

Another thing that you can use and that you are not going to get out of your weapon is walnut oil, crush walnuts, put the walnuts in a cotton cloth and make a doll and rub the wood with it, let the wood absorb the oil and repeat the operation as many times as necessary.

 

[WebleyGreene455]

Another thing that you can use and that you are not going to get out of your weapon is walnut oil, crush walnuts, put the walnuts in a cotton cloth and make a doll and rub the wood with it, let the wood absorb the oil and repeat the operation as many times as necessary.

It does have several coatings of tung oil already in the wood and I think my gunsmith added something else when it was built. I'll have to go and check my emails to find out, might've just been more tung oil. But that's an idea, too, thanks.

 

[JLF]

I am using my PC ... Tung oil is the oil obtained from the seeds of the ting. The walnut oil is obtained by crushing walnuts, by pounding them in a cotton cloth and forming a doll by rubbing the wood and discharging the oil.

 

[JLF]

That's a rag doll

 

[WebleyGreene455]

That's a rag doll
View attachment 359503

I gotcha. But I mean that both serve something of the same purpose from what I understand. Most US military stocks seemed to have used tung oil, too, from what I've found, since it's supposed to be quite water-resistant when properly coated and cured, as opposed to, say linseed oil. If adding walnut oil can help even more, excellent. And if some kind of additional coating can be done and keep the rifle looking like it should, all the better.

 

[bruce moulds]

birch is softer than walnut, but more stable.
thinning some e[oxy and soaking it into the wood is the best sealer you can get, but you have to soak all surfaces, including screw holes etc.
you can out an aesthetic finish over this, like truoil.
any oil will let humidity into wood, just slower than no oil.
bruce.

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

Good evening all. I need a little advice on something, if you please.

My absolute favorite rifle in my collection is my M14. It was my college graduation gift, built on a new-made receiver and barrel from USGI parts with a M14E2 Automatic Rifle's pistol-gripped stock. Alas, a few of its components (the folding foregrip and the unique E2 buttpad assembly plus the available repro bipod and slip-on stabilizer) are not present but I don't really mind so much 'cause I have an idea for an improvised foregrip, I don't really want the bipod, and the stabilizer means I can't fix bayonets. Anyway, it looks very much like this:
View attachment 359466

Here's my problem. As you can see in the pic, and note from the title, it's got a birch stock on it. Now, I live in coastal GA where it's sometimes VERY humid, and plainly, I'm concerned about having that rifle (or any wood-stocked one, which is pretty much all of them except my XM16E1) out in the rain or an extra-humid day for fear of the stock getting warped or swollen or what-have-you.

Should I really be concerned about this? Can I do anything to help its water-resistance besides the tung oil it's already been finished with? Or am I just overly worried because of the whole "M14 and M40 sniper rifle stocks were replaced with fiberglass because the wood got all messed up in Vietnam's wet-as-everything environment" thing and should remember that wood-stocked rifles suffered all kinds of miserable conditions for hundreds of years and it's sturdier than I think (and is pretty unlikely to just up and break, too)?

I daresay more than a couple of members on here might've carried wood-stocked battle rifles of their own once upon a time in the 60s and 70s and keep on doing so with their hunting rifles now, so I'm hoping y'all can help put my fears to rest.

Kindest regards,
~~W.G.455

@WebleyGreene455
As long as the wood is well seasoned and sealed on ALL surfaces internal and external the stock should be stable.
I use Gilleys gun wax and polish on ALL my timber stocks and metal work.
Strip the weapon completely and apply to ALL surfaces as per instructions. Repels water and dust just wipes off. I live on the coast with summery humidity up to over 90% at times and hunt in all climates, including hot and dry and cold ( by Australian standards) and have never had an issue with a stock including an old beech stock on an Anschutz single shot.
Bob

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

There are excellent quality, colorless lacquers that help preserve the wood ..... including beeswax ... to the metal parts, cloth moistened with WD-40 rejects moisture ..

@JLF
I avoid WD-40 like the plague. It builds up and attracts dirt and dust like a magnet.
Great for nuts and bolts but a disaster around rifles.
Bob

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

I am using my PC ... Tung oil is the oil obtained from the seeds of the ting. The walnut oil is obtained by crushing walnuts, by pounding them in a cotton cloth and forming a doll by rubbing the wood and discharging the oil.

@JLF
walnut oil comes from crushed wall nuts.
Canola oil comes from crushed canola.
I wonder where baby oil comes from. The mid boggles.
Bob

 

[Challer]

Well, love my M14s. Several coast of BLO cut with spirits or turpentine- it penetrates very well. Then two coats of BLO wax, both in side and out. Rain doesn’t affect it. Vietnam monsoon season might. I have a matching McMillan bedded as a backup to one. That said, I’ve always seasoned my stocks before bedding - back porch for a few weeks, back in the safe a few moths, repeat. Then seal, then bed