Leica Watch

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@Leica Sport Optics, so I am reading my copy of the Rob Report and what do I see a Leica Watch. I am a big Leica fan but at $12k USD, I will stick with my "Texas Timex." Story below from HODINKEE.

Introducing The Leica L1 And L2 Watches (Live Pics & Details)
The vaunted German camera maker is getting into the watch game.

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Stephen Pulvirent
June 13, 2018
140
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Quick Take
For its first earnest entry into the watch space, Leica is releasing a pair of new watches designed from the ground, the time-and-date L1 and the GMT-equipped L2. The camera maker has clearly done its homework and these watches are much more than just off-the-shelf components branded with a well-respected logo. Let's dig in.

The origins of this project go back to around 2012, when, according to Dr. Andreas Kaufmann, Chairman of the Board of Leica Camera, they first started exploring the idea of creating a watch. The project went through many iterations and after speaking with people at brands ranging from Hanhart to Chronoswiss to A. Lange & Söhne they started to get a sense of just how ambitious an undertaking this was and how many people would need to be involved to bring the watches to life.

Leica-3.jpg

From the side you can see the ruby set into the L1's crown (a nod to the red dot) and the dedicated pusher for advancing the date.

On the design side, Leica opted to work with Achim Heine, a German product designer who has developed multiple cameras and other optical devices for Leica over the last two decades. He drew inspiration from Leica's cameras without going too overboard. For instance, there's a round ruby set into each watch's crown, evoking the famous red dot logo, and the power reserve indicator is similar to a gauge found on the Leicameter light meter made for the M3 rangefinder. The L1 and L2 watches are both the same medium-to-large size at 41mm in diameter and 14mm thick, and the cases are brushed stainless steel, giving them a relatively understated appearance. I'd say that looking at the watches they definitely feel like Leica products without being caricatures of the cameras themselves.

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But what about the movements? You know, the actual watchmaking. For this Leica is partnering with Lehmann Präzision, a company based in the Black Forest that makes both high-precision machinery (used in the watchmaking industry) and its own line of watches under the name Lehmann Schramberg, though the latter aren't very well known outside of Germany. This allows Leica to keep the manufacturing in Germany and to get a movement that isn't something you'll find in countless ébauche-based watches. This last point is something that the company is emphatic was a top priority.

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On the left is a power reserve indicator inspired by an early light meter.

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When the watch is running, the aperture appears white...

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And when you push the crown to set the time, the aperture appears red.

The base caliber for the two watches is the L1 (with the L2 adding a GMT function and day/night indicator) and it has one key feature that really sets it apart: a crown that you push to reset the seconds to zero and enter a time-setting mode. This means you never pull out the crown or fiddle with multiple positions. You simply push it in, set the watch, and push it again to set it in motion – it operates with a column wheel, in much the same way as the start/stop mechanism of a chronograph, with two discrete positions. The date is adjusted with a separate, dedicated pusher, and the GMT model uses a second crown to rotate the inner bezel used to mark the second timezone.

While the movements are made by Lehmann, finishing, casing, and final assembly are executed at Ernst Leitz Werkstätten on the Leitz Park campus in Wetzlar, Germany (just next door to the Leica factory). The finish on the movement is somewhat industrial, in keeping with the general vibe of the watches, but it's not careless – you're not seeing raw edges or unfinished plates, it's just not meant to be a flashy or showy caliber. The camera maker has no intention of setting up a full watch assembly and sees the partnership with Lehmann as a long-term one.

Leica-1.jpg

There will also be versions of the L1 and L2 with red dials.

There are two things worth noting here as asides. The first is that if you think you've seen Leica watches before that's because you probably have. Since the 1980s the brand has flirted with licensing partnerships in the space and most recently, in 2014, the brand worked with watchmaker Valbray on a limited edition celebrating the camera maker's 100th anniversary. This however was not designed or made by Leica and was a one-time endeavor. Second, these two watches are positioned as the beginning of a new product category for Leica and it seems that the company has every intention of growing the collection. During the watch's unveiling, Dr. Kaufmann specifically mentioned models in rose gold coming later this year, an alarm watch called the L3 that is already in the works (hopefully launching in 2019), and models targeted at women that will be made in partnership with an Italian jewelry brand.

Leica-8.jpg

The L1 looks totally at home next to one of Leica's rangefinder cameras.

Initial Thoughts
I have to say, when I first heard that Leica was making a watch I was a little afraid. And I'm saying this as a Leica shooter who loves his camera more than almost any other object he owns, having aspired to own one since my earliest days shooting Tri-X on my grandfather's old Minolta. There were two things that gave me pause: 1) Any time a respected brand ventures outside its core competency there is risk of compromise or missing the mark. 2) Watches are a tough thing to make and even many companies who have been creating them for over a century still struggle on a regular basis.

I'm happy to report though that after spending a bit of time with the watches today at Leica's headquarters in Wetzlar, I can relax. The watches are, on their own merits and totally independently from the name on the dial, handsome and well-made. Phew.

Leica-9.jpg

While it wears nicely for a watch of its size, at 41mm across and 14mm thick, this isn't a svelte dress watch by any means.

From a design perspective, the watches fit in perfectly with the cameras and the language that Leica has cultivated over the decades. Setting the ruby into the crown to reference the iconic red dot in a way that has some history in watchmaking is cool, as is the format of the power reserve indicator. Both the L1 and L2 calibers are mechanically interesting and in practice the push-to-set crown is extremely easy to use and an elegant alternative to the usual mechanism. Partnering with Lehmann to create a movement that actual watch buyers will be interested in was a smart move when, in all honesty, they probably could have put any old ébauche in there with few complaints. It shows that the company is taking this seriously and doesn't just view these watches as diffusion products or lifestyle accessories.

Leica-12.jpg

The L2 adds a GMT complication with an inner rotating bezel and a day/night indicator.

Now, as with any watches, there are some things that in an ideal world I'd like to see a little different. At 41mm across and 14mm thick, these feel a little large to be real daily wearers in my book. Especially when you consider the understated and portable nature of the M cameras, it would have been nice to see something under 40mm and sub-12mm, though I understand that movement constraints and market research probably prove that 41x14 is the right move despite my preferences. The GMT configuration, with an inner rotating bezel took me a minute to understand – at first I didn't see it at all – but it's a pretty low-key way to get more information onto the dial without adding clutter.

Overall, I think this is a heck of a freshman offering from Leica. The watches are well-made, nicely designed, and horologically interesting, all while being both distinctly German and distinctly Leica too. I'm curious what all of you think – let me know in the comments below!

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The Basics
Brand: Leica
Model: L1 & L2

Diameter: 41mm
Thickness: 14mm
Case Material: Stainless steel with brushed finishes
Dial Color: Black or red
Indexes: Applied batons
Lume: None
Water Resistance: 50 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Diamond-embossed black calf leather strap with stainless steel pin buckle

Leica-13.jpg

The caliber are made for Leica by Lehmann Präzision and are an exclusive design. Finishing is nice, if on the industrial side of things stylistically.

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The Movement
Caliber: L1 & L2
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, power reserve indicator, setting indicator (L2 adds a second timezone via an internal rotating bezel and day/night indicator)
Power Reserve: 60 hours
Winding: Manually-wound
Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vph)
Jewels: 25
Additional Details: Date is set using a dedicated pusher at two o'clock. Time setting is activated by pushing the crown to change modes rather than by pulling the crown – when activated, the seconds hand also resets to zero. Leica is seeking chronometer certification, but hasn't yet decided whether to pursue this in Germany or Switzerland.

Leica-15.jpg

The L1 and L2 are just the start of Leica's newest product category.

Pricing & Availability
Price: Pricing not yet announced, but will start under €10,000 for the L1
Availability: Later this year at 10 Leica boutiques worldwide and a handful of domestic (German) jewelers
Limited Edition: Not limited editions, but production will be constrained to around 400 pieces total for the first year.

For more click here.
 

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Been wearing a 70’s era Rolex Submariner for nearly 20 years in all weathers. Suspect it will see me through.
 
Am hooked on Rolex and Omegas for hi end watches. (Seikos for everyday use/wear). Don't know about Leica watches except for this thread but would rather have 3 Leica scopes over one Leica watch!
 
I've been wearing an Omega for almost 35 years. When I go hunting, I use a Timex Expedition. I like the illumination and alarm features.
 
Interesting. I think in that price range, there are several others I'd choose first. Between watches and rifles, I could go broke in a hurry if I'm not careful.
 
An old mobster is dying. He calls his grandson to his bedside, Guido, I wan' you lissina me. I wan' you to take-a my chrome plated ..38 revolver so you will always remember me."

"But grandpa, I really don't like guns.. How about you leave me your Rolex watch instead?"

"You lissina me, boy. Somma day you gonna be runna da business, you gonna have a beautiful wife, lotsa money, a big-a home and maybe a couple of bambinos. "

"Somma day you gonna come-a home and maybe finda you wife inna bed with another man.

"Whatta you gonna do then? Pointa to you watch and say, 'times up' "
 
My "Texas Timex" is an 1986 Date Just, and I wear it everyday. The only time I have ever worried about loosing it (ie: robbed), was then I was in Rio and I lock it up in the hotel safe (and just as great of chance that being robbed too). I have 4 Leica Scopes, 4 Leica Binoculars and one old camera. I will pass on the watch. If I were to get a different watch, and I will not as having no male offspring (to my knowledge) to pass it to, it would be a Patek Philippe.

Now, would I spend some more money for another Camera and maybe a couple of more scopes and maybe the latest Geovid, sure.
 

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