Knifery 101

[Ray B]

I've seen several posts where various knives were discussed and I didn't want to hi-jack those threads but wanted to impart a little of the knowledge that I have gained using knives over the last 60+ years, so I'll post several pictures, one at a time with an explanation of the picture. I'd do it all in one posting but I'm not adept enough with computers to do that- I'm fortunate to be able to do what I can.

 

[Ray B]

First is the edge. When properly sharpened you should be able to hold the blade as in the top photo and get a reflection from a light. It should be a small mirror that runs along the edge. In photo 2 the blade has been rotated with the slicing edge directly toward the camera. There should be NO reflection on it because a reflection is going to show a break in the sharpness of the edge. Photo 3 is the blade has continued to rotate until the reflection of the other side of the edge shows. It should be just like the edge in the first photo, just the other side of it.

 

[Ray B]

Some "sporting" knives. Top is made by VonGruff, second is a Randall #5, Third is Gerber Magnum Hunter and fourth is Ruana Skinner. Each knife (every knife for that matter) is a selection of options for its use. The uses vary from separating hide from meat, meat from bone, opening hide and other aspects which should be apparent with the commercial knives.

 

[Ray B]

 

[Ray B]

Knife blade shape/size are results of compromise. Straight blade vs curve. Long vs short. Thick vs thin. Blunt vs pointed. The choice is an answer to the need. for a butcher having a knife for each need is not a problem. for the hunter where every ounce is counted having more than one knife for game use is impractical, so the need for several uses in one knife is apparent. I have found that a knife similar to the vonGruff to be about perfect for the hunting that I do with consists mainly of Washington State elk.

 

[USMA84DAB]

Like your knife from Von Gruff.

 

[fourfive8]

The virus "lockdown" gives me too much time to browse and impulse buy stuff I don't need! I am not a knife collector other than having a weakness for old ethnographic blades- 16th-19th century type stuff. However the confuser tends to lead us all astray. Always been fascinated by the basic Scandinavian designs. Found these on sale on the net the other day and just got them in. At about 17.00 ea shipped- couldn't resist! A Morakaniv (Mora) from Sweden (top) and a Marttiini from Finland (bottom). The Marttiini still has the forging scale on the flats. Both have blade lengths of about 3 3/4". They "feel" good in the hand. Hope I get to put them to some use other than the vicarious world of the internet hunting field. They look to be very well made and practical, albeit minimalist in design- which I like. The carbon steels are supposed to be very good and listed at 57-60 HRC. Anxious to see how they do

 

[MS 9x56]

I have and use both of these knives. Both can be sharpened to shave hair fairly easily but do need to be oiled regularly or will rust. I think you will find them both useful and of the correct size for a hunting knife. The biggest mistake I see new hunters make is buying a larger blade than is needed. Only adds additional weight.

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

The virus "lockdown" gives me too much time to browse and impulse buy stuff I don't need! I am not a knife collector other than having a weakness for old ethnographic blades- 16th-19th century type stuff. However the confuser tends to lead us all astray. Always been fascinated by the basic Scandinavian designs. Found these on sale on the net the other day and just got them in. At about 17.00 ea shipped- couldn't resist! A Morakaniv (Mora) from Sweden (top) and a Marttiini from Finland (bottom). The Marttiini still has the forging scale on the flats. Both have blade lengths of about 3 3/4". They "feel" good in the hand. Hope I get to put them to some use other than the vicarious world of the internet hunting field. They look to be very well made and practical, albeit minimalist in design- which I like. The carbon steels are supposed to be very good and listed at 57-60 HRC. Anxious to see how they do

View attachment 339912

Fourfive8
I do like that brand of knife. I use the little 4 inch filleter for boning out pigs,goat, and fallow deer but my 2 main knives are my carbon steel flat grind belt knife and my blade runner Skinner. I always carry my optimal 3 inch carbon folder.
Cheers mate Bob

 

[WAB]

Bob, that looks like a Russell belt knife. Canadian eh?

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

Bob, that looks like a Russell belt knife. Canadian eh?

WAB
It is a Canadian belt knife made by Grohman in Nova Scotia. The do a stainless steel as well and various grinds and handles. As close as a custom knife without the custom price.
I had mine done in carbon steel flat grind and standard scales. Sharpens easily and holds an edge extremely well. It's my general carry in the bush.
I've liked that knife for ages. The knife, the Savage 110 and myself all have 1 thing in common. We're all made in 1958.
Cheers mate Bob

 

[Ridgewalker]

The biggest mistake I see new hunters make is buying a larger blade than is needed.

I agree 100%!
I have found a drop point of 2 1/2-3” to work best for me. Once I start butchering and deboning at home, multiple longer more flexible blades are better. But I have had to use a 2” Case pocket knife to eviscerate and debone a 5x5 bull elk! I forgot my sheath knife, but luckily I did have my pocket steel. A long slow task! Once was enough! I have never again left my sheath knife in camp!

 

[WAB]

WAB
It is a Canadian belt knife made by Grohman in Nova Scotia. The do a stainless steel as well and various grinds and handles. As close as a custom knife without the custom price.
I had mine done in carbon steel flat grind and standard scales. Sharpens easily and holds an edge extremely well. It's my general carry in the bush.
I've liked that knife for ages. The knife, the Savage 110 and myself all have 1 thing in common. We're all made in 1958.
Cheers mate Bob

Sweet, I gave mine to my PH. I still have the bird and trout knife. I won’t be giving that one away! Cheers, Bill

 

[bruce moulds]

a friend and I both bought lansky systems about the same time.
we have been learning their operation, and I have also been learning the steel and the strop.
of course our wives wanted sharp knives and thought they were going into nirvana.
when I explained to my wife that she needed to steel the knife whenever it needed it during use she just shut off and did not want to know.
I was telling john about this and he said don't tell his wife.
it turns out she is the same as my wife, and john had told her that my wife is really into it.
it must be a girl thing.
they don't seem to notice the difference between sharp and blunt, and certainly don't want to think about it.
my current theory is that wives need those knife blocks with a sharpening system that works then you insert and pull out the knives.
it is their only hope.
my wifes favourite knife is a $2.50 paring knife from coles or target, and it is amazing how soft the steel is.
even that will retain a bit of an edge once you start to understand putting it on the steel during use.
also my aus8 packet knife blade is now a far more useful tool treated the same.
bruce.

 

[Shootist43]

Ray B, permit me an observation please. I too have been using hunting knives for quite a while, well over 60 years as I'm currently 77. Up until the 80(s) virtually all of my hunting knives were made by Buck and had stainless steel blades of one type or anaother. I then switched to knives made of D2 tool steel and other types of high carbon steels. In the early 90(s) I "discovered" Cold Steel Carbon V knives and never looked back. For the past several years its been Von Gruff's knives that were carried into the field. After use, my knives are cleaned, dried and then covered with a coat of cooking oil. I have three sets of Lansky's sharpening jigs and a myriad of stones. The edges on all my knives are as you described, however being covered with cooking oil preserved the finish on the entire blade.