Just Bought a Sako Brown Bear XL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Honeybadger

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Hey guys, I just bought a Sako Brown Bear XL chambered in 500 Jeffery! I don't have the rifle in my hands yet, I put it on lay away so that I could spread the price of the rifle out over several months. I'm wondering if anyone here can give me input on the rifle..........I've done my research on the rifle, and so far everything points to it being awesome. But I'd love to get some first hand input, can anyone help me out??

Honeybadger
 
No direct, firsthand knowledge, but the 500 Jeff appears to be a serious thumper. With 6,000 to 8,000 ft-lbs of ME, it should get both the target's and the shooter's attention for sure. If you don't already own a lead sled, go get one............or maybe two.

One of my favorite gun writers, Joe D'Alessandro at Realguns.com did a 2 part article on the 500 Jeff and then provided quite a bit of hand loading data. The rifle he used was a CZ, not a Sako though.


When Way Too Much Is Just Enough
The 500 Jeffery Project - Part I

http://www.realguns.com/archives/156.htm

Handloads and Range Results - Good Grief!
http://www.realguns.com/archives/157.htm

Hand load data:
http://www.realguns.com/loads/500jeffery.htm

The CZ SC550 Safari Classic in 500 Jeffery Parts I & II
http://www.realguns.com/Commentary/comar154.htm
http://www.realguns.com/Commentary/comar155.htm
 
While I don't own any Brown Bear SAKO's, I am not a fan of laminate or synthetic stocks, I do own 3 SAKO classics. You will not have to do anything to a SAKO out of the box other then shoot it. The triggers are as smooth as glass. The Optilock Scope mounts you can easily install yourself, you just need a flat level surface to mount the rings to the bases. Welcome to the club. Be sure and check out the SAKO collector website.
 
I looked at the CZ's...........but I kept hearing nothing but good things about the Sako. Supposedly the action is smooooooth as butter. Very reliable, zero failures to feed or eject reported, supposed to be a very natural pointer, front sight is LARGE, rear is a single V with a white line, very easy to line up and get on target, barrel is extremely thick, trigger is light and crisp, and it comes in at 10 lbs............I'll be adding two mercury recoil reducers to my stock, and probably changing the butt pad, but that's it. Oh, also..........it's a limited edition gun, and is no longer available. I was able to find several dealers that had them..........this particular dealer had two, and was $200 cheaper than anyone else!

No direct, firsthand knowledge, but the 500 Jeff appears to be a serious thumper. With 6,000 to 8,000 ft-lbs of ME, it should get both the target's and the shooter's attention for sure. If you don't already own a lead sled, go get one............or maybe two.

One of my favorite gun writers, Joe D'Alessandro at Realguns.com did a 2 part article on the 500 Jeff and then provided quite a bit of hand loading data. The rifle he used was a CZ, not a Sako though.


When Way Too Much Is Just Enough
The 500 Jeffery Project - Part I

http://www.realguns.com/archives/156.htm

Handloads and Range Results - Good Grief!
http://www.realguns.com/archives/157.htm

Hand load data:
http://www.realguns.com/loads/500jeffery.htm

The CZ SC550 Safari Classic in 500 Jeffery Parts I & II
http://www.realguns.com/Commentary/comar154.htm
http://www.realguns.com/Commentary/comar155.htm
 
Hey guys, I just bought a Sako Brown Bear XL chambered in 500 Jeffery! I don't have the rifle in my hands yet, I put it on lay away so that I could spread the price of the rifle out over several months. I'm wondering if anyone here can give me input on the rifle..........I've done my research on the rifle, and so far everything points to it being awesome. But I'd love to get some first hand input, can anyone help me out??

Honeybadger
Excellent rifle , you will change the pad ,and because it only weighs just on 10lb , loads get very lively. I had 600grn woodleighs with 115grn of w760 up around 6700ftlbs and to me it was getting savage. New load is still 600grn woodies , but using 104 grn of adi 2208 which should be the same as varget , bout 6000ftlbs but better behaved. Hopefully colorado will join in as well. You will like it.
 
Upon removal of the butt pad, does the stock already have a hole in it like lots of rifles do?? Or will I need to drill one to install a reducer?? Also, is there a butt pad that does a nice job with recoil reduction, that also fits like it was actually meant for the gun?? I figure that with two reducers, and a new pad, and keeping my loads of 600 grain Woodleighs between 2100-2200fps........that recoil should not be that bad at all. Also, I hear the gun is front heavy due to the massive barrel...........two reducers in the butt should balance that out nicely!!!!!!!!!!

Excellent rifle , you will change the pad ,and because it only weighs just on 10lb , loads get very lively. I had 600grn woodleighs with 115grn of w760 up around 6700ftlbs and to me it was getting savage. New load is still 600grn woodies , but using 104 grn of adi 2208 which should be the same as varget , bout 6000ftlbs but better behaved. Hopefully colorado will join in as well. You will like it.
 
Upon removal of the butt pad, does the stock already have a hole in it like lots of rifles do?? Or will I need to drill one to install a reducer?? Also, is there a butt pad that does a nice job with recoil reduction, that also fits like it was actually meant for the gun?? I figure that with two reducers, and a new pad, and keeping my loads of 600 grain Woodleighs between 2100-2200fps........that recoil should not be that bad at all. Also, I hear the gun is front heavy due to the massive barrel...........two reducers in the butt should balance that out nicely!!!!!!!!!!
No hole , and i think you'll find the pad is nailed on . Gunsmith fitted a pacmayer decellerator pad , i find these pads good to use , and i hear limbsaver pads go alright as well. It is only the light weight for calibre that makes it lively. If you make around 5800-6000 ftlbs at muzzle , that's all your going to need , you can go a lot higher , but your only beating yourself up for nothing.
 
congratulations on your new 500!

i have done extensive work with its big brother, the 505 Gibbs. my rifle was an AHR semi-custom that weighed 11 pounds 4 ounces empty with a small red dot optic and i found this weight to be ideal. id suggest using lead bars over mercury reducers as lead will take up less space in the stock especially when you mold the bars to be a perfect fit for the holes. i havent found there to be a noticeable difference between mercury tubes and plain lead other then the amount of space needed to install it.

for loads, i recommend 570gr Swift A-frames at around 2100-2300fps and perhaps their new solid at a speed that matches the POI of the A-frames. i have used the 570gr .505" A-frame in my 505 Gibbs at 2300fps to take a buffalo and the bullets performance is impressive. Woodleigh bullets are very nice but be very careful pushing the softs too fast as they can fail at speeds exceeding what they were designed for.

just remember that you dont need to push this cartridge hard to get good performance. a 570gr .510" bullet moving at 2050fps will easily bring down any game on the planet.

-matt
 
Matt, thanks for your advice.....I'll settle around that velocity. No sense in beating myself for no noticeable performance gain. I want to do the butt pad and lead installation myself.....this should be fairly easy shouldn't it. My father and I have gunsmithing experience....but I've never modified a stock in.thjs manner.....any suggestions?? Have you done this before. I have a good supply of pure plumbers lead. Should I drill one large hole...two medium, two large, a combination there of?? What do you suggest??

congratulations on your new 500!

i have done extensive work with its big brother, the 505 Gibbs. my rifle was an AHR semi-custom that weighed 11 pounds 4 ounces empty with a small red dot optic and i found this weight to be ideal. id suggest using lead bars over mercury reducers as lead will take up less space in the stock especially when you mold the bars to be a perfect fit for the holes. i havent found there to be a noticeable difference between mercury tubes and plain lead other then the amount of space needed to install it.

for loads, i recommend 570gr Swift A-frames at around 2100-2300fps and perhaps their new solid at a speed that matches the POI of the A-frames. i have used the 570gr .505" A-frame in my 505 Gibbs at 2300fps to take a buffalo and the bullets performance is impressive. Woodleigh bullets are very nice but be very careful pushing the softs too fast as they can fail at speeds exceeding what they were designed for.

just remember that you dont need to push this cartridge hard to get good performance. a 570gr .510" bullet moving at 2050fps will easily bring down any game on the planet.

-matt
 
I have done this before, we drilled two holes in the butt stock and used lead cylinders made to match the length and diameter of the holes. use some scrap wood to figure out how deep the holes should be drilled. we used some copper pipe cut in half and then hose clamped back together as a mold for the lead cylinders.

as long as your careful not to take too much off the walls of the stock or go too deep as to weaken the wrist, you will be "ok".

-matt
 
Congrats! No firsthand experience to share with you, but Sako's are great rifles!
 
Big medicine for anything sir. Congrats! I hope you reload as ammo for this big boy is pricey.
 
I have been looking at one of those as well, there are a couple on gunbroker for a fair price I think. I can't quite decide though, the weight is the biggest concern for me. Congrats on your purchase, I look forward to hearing your experiences!
 
Hence the reason I'm going to add either as much lead as I can, or as many mercury recoil reducers as I can. I got 24 ounces into the stock of my Ruger #1...easily....in the bolt hole that was already there. I know I can get that much in the Jeffery when I drill it..........and I can probably, easily, and safely, get even more. The Ruger would fit more, but I didn't bother.

I have been looking at one of those as well, there are a couple on gunbroker for a fair price I think. I can't quite decide though, the weight is the biggest concern for me. Congrats on your purchase, I look forward to hearing your experiences!
 
Stock was short for me so had to cut old recoilpad off ( it's held on by steel pins not screws) while apart used one mercury tube balanced perfectly shoots like a dream. Recoil heavy enough that steel face of mag box needed to be slightly beveled so second and third rounds feed smoothly. It is sub moa with iron sight for me at 100 meters three shot clover leaf with factory ammo.
It a tad light for round but it's one I'll keep for thick stuff and buff.
 
Could I get away with adding more weight if I don't care if it's a bit back heavy?? I am not recoil sensitive......but I'd like to tame it down as much as I can. As I get older..........less abuse it better! I guess what I'm asking is.........can I safely remove enough of the stock to add more weight, or a second tube??

Stock was short for me so had to cut old recoilpad off ( it's held on by steel pins not screws) while apart used one mercury tube balanced perfectly shoots like a dream. Recoil heavy enough that steel face of mag box needed to be slightly beveled so second and third rounds feed smoothly. It is sub moa with iron sight for me at 100 meters three shot clover leaf with factory ammo.
It a tad light for round but it's one I'll keep for thick stuff and buff.
 
Also, is it easy to remove the old pad?? And can I just screw the new one one?? I plan to fit a Limbsaver Nitro Grind to Fit pad..............I'm wondering what size I can get away with, Medium or Large??

Stock was short for me so had to cut old recoilpad off ( it's held on by steel pins not screws) while apart used one mercury tube balanced perfectly shoots like a dream. Recoil heavy enough that steel face of mag box needed to be slightly beveled so second and third rounds feed smoothly. It is sub moa with iron sight for me at 100 meters three shot clover leaf with factory ammo.
It a tad light for round but it's one I'll keep for thick stuff and buff.
 
Also, I've settled I think on a load that will put me right at 2130 FPS with a 600 grain bullet.........plenty to get the job done.........6050 ft lbs..........and should keep the recoil down a bit.

Stock was short for me so had to cut old recoilpad off ( it's held on by steel pins not screws) while apart used one mercury tube balanced perfectly shoots like a dream. Recoil heavy enough that steel face of mag box needed to be slightly beveled so second and third rounds feed smoothly. It is sub moa with iron sight for me at 100 meters three shot clover leaf with factory ammo.
It a tad light for round but it's one I'll keep for thick stuff and buff.
 
There is enough wood to put in tubes but old pad is put on with steel pins that must be cut with saw. (No screw heads) I had gunshop do it install tube 7/8 x5" and glue screw limbsaver pad in place and grind to fit. 14.25" length of pull
Recoil reduced and balance perfect for me when brought up sights align perfectly
 

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Until this guy posts something on pay it forward free I would avoid him at all costs.
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