ISO HUB style direct thread for 375 suppressor in 5/8 x18

Owen89

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I have a 375 Ruger that I want to put a suppressor on. It's a Ruger Hawkeye African, does anyone know where I can find a direct thread HUB mount for a 5/8 x 18 thread?

Thanks
 
That is an odd thread size, as I'm sure you know. You may have to custom order one from a manufacturer.
 
I googled it and this option came up:


Do your due diligence to validate. Although $24 is not much of a risk.
One has to be very careful about using thread adapters to mount suppressors, as the results of minor misalignments are amplified by the length of the can. Results can be catastrophic especially with large calibers. I would use this as a last resort. It's generally better to cut and rethread rather than adapt.
 
I have the same rifle. Silencer central has the direct thread adapter in that size.

You might have to call them to get it
 
I have the same rifle. Silencer central has the direct thread adapter in that size.

You might have to call them to get it
Thanks, I'll give them a call about it. The stock muzzle brake works but I cringe using it...

Haven't shot my rifle a ton yet, only just starting load development. I have been very pleased with the accuracy of Hornady factory ammo. I know the DGX has somewhat of a checkered past on the terminal performance front but very promising as a reloader.
 
I have a 375 Ruger that I want to put a suppressor on. It's a Ruger Hawkeye African, does anyone know where I can find a direct thread HUB mount for a 5/8 x 18 thread?

Thanks
Yes.


I ran I to the same thing with my .375 FTW.

I had my smith trim those goofy old style threads & go back with 11/16” for this-


I understand Ruger now uses a different thread pattern on the new guns.
 
One has to be very careful about using thread adapters to mount suppressors, as the results of minor misalignments are amplified by the length of the can. Results can be catastrophic especially with large calibers. I would use this as a last resort. It's generally better to cut and rethread rather than adapt.
I saw this adapter as well. Would prefer a direct thread option personally. My most common issue with adapters is not misalignment it's the dang things seizing up from carbon... currently fighting one on another rifle I own.
 
Yes.


I ran I to the same thing with my .375 FTW.

I had my smith trim those goofy old style threads & go back with 11/16” for this-


I understand Ruger now uses a different thread pattern on the new guns.
 
I saw this adapter as well. Would prefer a direct thread option personally. My most common issue with adapters is not misalignment it's the dang things seizing up from carbon... currently fighting one on another rifle I own.
If you’ve got a competent smith have him thread it 11/16” x 24tpi & be done with it.
 
Or spend the hundred dollars on the Direct thread adapter that you get from Silencer central and you’re done with it. Super easy and simple.

Ruger uses a different thread pattern on each caliber since the muzzle brakes looks so similar. It would be easy to screw a 300 mag muzzle brake Honda 338 Win Mac, for example.
 
Or spend the hundred dollars on the Direct thread adapter that you get from Silencer central and you’re done with it. Super easy and simple.

Ruger uses a different thread pattern on each caliber since the muzzle brakes looks so similar. It would be easy to screw a 300 mag muzzle brake Honda 338 Win Mac, for example.
The new 375 FTW is 11/16” for this purpose.
 
You may also want to consider checking alignment with an alignment rod. A small cost in the scheme of things. Didnt used to be a big fan till the guy next to me with a new Ruger in 300 blk was getting keyholes in his target. Thought it was the ammo. He was getting big time baffle strikes. The last round left a portion of the jacket still in the can. I used one when I first mounted my 50 BMG can. :) Can’t imagine mishaps with that. https://geissele.com/375-suppressor-alignment-gage.html
 
You may also want to consider checking alignment with an alignment rod. A small cost in the scheme of things. Didnt used to be a big fan till the guy next to me with a new Ruger in 300 blk was getting keyholes in his target. Thought it was the ammo. He was getting big time baffle strikes. The last round left a portion of the jacket still in the can. I used one when I first mounted my 50 BMG can. :) Can’t imagine mishaps with that. https://geissele.com/375-suppressor-alignment-gage.html
I had an endcap strike when I first got my AUG, way back in the 2000s when nobody made mounts outside the standard American thread pitches, lol. I mounted an AAC QD mount to a 1/2-28 thread adapter (from M13-1.5 lefty threads on the Steyr, IIRC), then mounted a can to that. Tolerance stacking led to misalignment and an endcap strike. Luckily it was minor, and I caught it quickly.

Using an alignment rod is always best practice. Your eye may not catch minor alignment issues, as in my example above. Even with modern precision manufacturing, things can get missed, and accidents can happen.
 
I had an endcap strike when I first got my AUG, way back in the 2000s when nobody made mounts outside the standard American thread pitches, lol. I mounted an AAC QD mount to a 1/2-28 thread adapter (from M13-1.5 lefty threads on the Steyr, IIRC), then mounted a can to that. Tolerance stacking led to misalignment and an endcap strike. Luckily it was minor, and I caught it quickly.

Using an alignment rod is always best practice. Your eye may not catch minor alignment issues, as in my example above. Even with modern precision manufacturing, things can get missed, and accidents can happen.
Tolerance Stacking.

That’s exactly what can happen with adapters or converting imperial to metric measurements.
 
I bought one of the Silencer Central adapters for my Ruger Guide Gun 30-06. It has the same goofy 5/8x18 thread (What were you thinking Ruger?). Anyway, the adapter works great. No issues.
 
Ecco is what I use for my Hybrid 46 direct thread. My buddy decide to go with the ASR mount and the 5/8-18 to 5/8-24 thread adapter. Had a baffle strike even after verifying with an alignment rod.
Better option.
Have a gunsmith remove your barrel band sight. Thread the barrel to 1/2-28 then add the 5/8-24 thread adapter and permanently attach it. Reinstalling the front sight.
 

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