Is this brass safe to load and shoot?

I mean, the good news is that you could still recycled them to modified cases, use them for die-setting, or calibration or whatever. If they're going in the trash anyways that's a good way to up-cycle them, and the kind of thing I'd wind up doing on my bench.
 
End of the day, if you don't feel comfortable now, you're definitely not going to feel comfortable pulling the trigger. Considering it's a quality control from the factory issue (if I read that right?) then I'd reach out and send documentation and they might just send a new bag over too.
 
Looks cosmetic to me also. How is surface tarnish a
qc factory issue? It would take forever for tarnish caused by a one time humidity/moisture exposure to structurally affect a brass. Remington brass is all I’ve ever shot in my 416 Rem. Never an issue. Overall it’s as consistent as any and more consistent than most.
 
It's virgin brass, but I bought it second hand, so it's a previous owner storage issue I suppose. Condition was not evident when I bought it. I'm going to load the best of them as light loads and see what happens. I have fresh Hornady brass for full power loads.
 
Looks cosmetic to me also. How is surface tarnish a
qc factory issue? It would take forever for tarnish caused by a one time humidity/moisture exposure to structurally affect a brass. Remington brass is all I’ve ever shot in my 416 Rem. Never an issue. Overall it’s as consistent as any and more consistent than most.
Considering all the new brass I have purchased from quite a few different sources and manufacturers I would say the occurrence is very low. I worked in metal cleaning and plating for a number of years and that looks to me as either a quick or no rinse problem from the factory. Contact Remington and they may very well replace the brass.
 
Considering all the new brass I have purchased from quite a few different sources and manufacturers I would say the occurrence is very low. I worked in metal cleaning and plating for a number of years and that looks to me as either a quick or no rinse problem from the factory. Contact Remington and they may very well replace the brass.
Remington doesn't list 416 brass as an in stock or out of stock item anymore. All hail Hornady!
 
Thank you. This is after 90 minutes of Lyman Corncob Plus with the polishing compound. Didn't make much difference.

I'll remember that. Thanks.
try it for 24 hours and see how they look, maybe hand polish with steel wool and Brasso
 
If you are concerned , toss it. Not worth the risk to save a few dollars….
 
Further, if you reload, why not use the best components available. Use RWS or Norma brass…
 
Just jumping in for added suggestions to those interested in wet tumbling.

I just use hot water and a squirt of dishwashing detergent like dawn. It's messy but the entirety of the brass becomes squeaky clean. Especially the primer pocket.

The concern I always hear about this method is water staying on the brass after the process and causing corrosion

My method is to take the brass out, rinse, shake out the water, and toss it into a dry vibratory tumbler with corn cob media. I squirt a tablespoon of NuFinish liquid car wax into the media and let it run for awhile before adding brass.

The media pulls all the moisture off the brass and leaves a minute amount of wax finish. Inside and out! No internal flash corrosion.

Hope this is helpful.
 
I'm a big fan of the stainless wet tumbles myself. If I had those that's what I'd do. Wet tumbling is a bit more of a pain --- particularly with Snowmageddon upon us since I usually use the "sun" and "nice temperatures" to dry things. I use the RCBS tumbler and usually the way it works is:

1. Save a bunch of brass up (because this is a pain even if it gets things factory new looking)
2. De-prime all brass. I don't size here, just deprime.
3. Load up a few pounds of brass, fill tumbler about 3/4 full and add some hornady case cleaner. I forget the ratio and the garage is cold for me to go look.
4. Run tumbler for about 2 hours.
5. Admire the super duper shiny brass while straining it.

Now, for the reason it's a pain. I can repeat that procedure about 8 times before the solution has lost it's solution-ness. That's why I like doing big batches to make it worth it. So after the timer is up, then the changeover begins

6. Do basic strain of container into 5 gallon bucket. Really shake the tumbler hard to get as many pins out as possible. Set bucket to the side.
7. Dump brass into a rotary media separator. Go to town until I don't hear pins coming out.
8. Get 5 gallon bucket 2. Pour a bunch of brass in, rinse with garden hose while agitating. Empty water and retrieve pins with magnet until rinse water is clear. Repeat till all brass is done.
9. Another separation in the rotary.
10. Set everything on a towel in the sun for a few hours. I hear you can just put them on trays in an oven on low if your wife will not murder you for having brass in the oven, but I'm not trying that.
11. Pour solution and all pins and more dirty brass in and start over.

If the sun and wind gods shine upon you then the brass on the towel will be pretty dry before the next batch is done, but I just leave it in the sun for about two days kind of agitating them from time to time.

That method will take the nastiest dirtiest range pickup to new looking. Just consumes time.

As a bonus like @Schüler Jumbo pointed out, annealing is a great idea. Any fired brass I get for big boy cartridges gets annealed before I trust it. I don't worry about that on pistol or "common calibers" like 223.
I use a Lyman pin tumbler, hot water,& dish washing detergent, & a tee spoon of citric acid from the supermarket i have never used the case cleaner liquid you can buy . Resize brass run in tumbler for 1.5 hours rinse in hot water & dry in the sun
there is no shortage of sun in Queensland Australia, make sure that no pins are left in the cases. They come out like new. Those blotches on those cases in pictures are only cosmetic .
 
I use to buy tons of 416 rem mag bulk brass .I probally threw away 200 cases from being crushed .Its super hard to find 416 rem mag brass these days .I would try it with reduced loads then go up shouldnt be any problem.I wish norma would make alot of 416 rem mag brass its awesome so is Nosler 416 rem mag brass its the best I have seen .After you fire the remington 416 brass it will harden up and be alot better .
 
I would worry a LOT more about incipient case head separation than little corrosive specks. You will probably retire them quicker due to the former than the latter anyway.

I would not wax any brass, as brass has to grip/seal to the insides of the chamber, else excess pressure is exerted to the bolt face if it does NOT grip the inside of the chamber.
 
I use to buy tons of 416 rem mag bulk brass .I probally threw away 200 cases from being crushed .Its super hard to find 416 rem mag brass these days .I would try it with reduced loads then go up shouldnt be any problem.I wish norma would make alot of 416 rem mag brass its awesome so is Nosler 416 rem mag brass its the best I have seen .After you fire the remington 416 brass it will harden up and be alot better .
I thought Norma made nosler brass?
Gumpy
 
I mean, the good news is that you could still recycled them to modified cases, use them for die-setting, or calibration or whatever. If they're going in the trash anyways that's a good way to up-cycle them, and the kind of thing I'd wind up doing on my bench.

Blasphemy.....

How dare you......

Once brass has out lived it's usefulness it is collected and taken to the recycling center to be sold and the money used to purchase new brass.

Feel free to ask for more cost savings for more ammo and reloading advice.
 
Just reload the bras as you normally would.

It was most likely sold as blemished brass.

I've purchased such brass, ran it through my tumbler, checked it, and reloaded the brass without any problems multiple times, 10, 20, 50+ times, before discarding it.

I don't "hot"/max powder charge my reloads so my brass last longer.
 

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