How to optimally attach the rifle scope with rings

BlackRhino

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Hi guys;
German-language hunting forums describe various methods for attaching rifle scopes with rings: 2-component adhesive, the use of plastic spacers, or latex parts from gloves. If rifle scopes are not glued into the rings, this naturally has the advantage that the mounting rings and the rifle scope can be reused more easily when changing the rifle scope. What experience is there with high-recoil cartridges in hot climates?
 
Hi BlackRhino, In general, if all the components fit correctly, you should not need to anything extra. Alaska Arms scope rings use a strip of friction paper on each half of the scope ring. I have used their rings, and they are first class. Not sure about the friction paper, but I used it. Never have used anything on other rings. Never had a problem with any slippage, up to 458 Lott. I too have heard of all kinds of remedies to solve scope problems, but have never needed any.
 
Hi BlackRhino, In general, if all the components fit correctly, you should not need to anything extra. Alaska Arms scope rings use a strip of friction paper on each half of the scope ring. I have used their rings, and they are first class. Not sure about the friction paper, but I used it. Never have used anything on other rings. Never had a problem with any slippage, up to 458 Lott. I too have heard of all kinds of remedies to solve scope problems, but have never needed any.
I have an update for you….

I recently used Alaska Arms rings on my .375 and while talking to Morris he recommended a LIGHT coat of liquid electrical tape on the inside of the rings.

I lapped the rings, applied liquid tape and torqued to spec…. Works great and I’m confident that scope will not move and will not have ring marks when I remove it.
 
Hi guys;
German-language hunting forums describe various methods for attaching rifle scopes with rings: 2-component adhesive, the use of plastic spacers, or latex parts from gloves. If rifle scopes are not glued into the rings, this naturally has the advantage that the mounting rings and the rifle scope can be reused more easily when changing the rifle scope. What experience is there with high-recoil cartridges in hot climates?
Ive onky ever used high quality propperly sized rings and propper torque. Never had any issues.
 
A million years ago when I was super concerned with long range precision shooting I used to spend a lot of time worried about lapping rings, getting a perfect fit, perfect level, etc.. etc..

these days I pretty much just buy good quality rings, lay the scope in there, and cinch down with the prescribed amount of torque.. and.. Ive had no problems at all.. doesnt matter if we're talking about my .22 rimfires or my .416 DG rifles.. or anything else in between... never had a problem with shifting.. doesnt matter if the guns have been in hot climates, cold climates, dry or wet climates.. never a problem..

I also used to spend a LOT of money on rings.. I bought badger ordnance most of the time (back then they were about $125 a set.. now theyre just under $200 I believe)..

Today I have warne maximas on most of my rifles and talleys on a few others.. (more in the $65 prince range).. and again, zero problems..

in a nutshell, I dont worry about rings and/or scope mounting that much these days.. Ive found that using a quality ring and following prescribed torque instructions works.. so I dont put any more thought into it than that..
 
I never use any filler or glue.
My 375 Ruger, using Ruger rings has no issue with retaining zero.
My Ruger No.1 in 450-400 with Ruger rings retains zero.
The 300 win mag Savage with Tally rings has no issues.
Even my 243 with a 1 piece DNZ game reaper mount retains its zero, even after falling out of my ATV a couple of times.
My Colt AR that I use for 3 gun with LVPO has a Warne mount. That thing gets tossed around a bunch. No issues retaining zero.

I don’t see a need a need for the extra filler or glue, seems to be adding another potential failure point.
 
I never use any filler or glue.
My 375 Ruger, using Ruger rings has no issue with retaining zero.
My Ruger No.1 in 450-400 with Ruger rings retains zero.
The 300 win mag Savage with Tally rings has no issues.
Even my 243 with a 1 piece DNZ game reaper mount retains its zero, even after falling out of my ATV a couple of times.
My Colt AR that I use for 3 gun with LVPO has a Warne mount. That thing gets tossed around a bunch. No issues retaining zero.

I don’t see a need a need for the extra filler or glue, seems to be adding another potential failure point.
Only thing i would consider is maybe locktight. On the threads. But even then its not really that big a deal
 
Hakan Spuhr is pushing for the use of epoxy. Wet bedding scopes. I am convinced this is a better method after doing it to one of my own.
 
I'm with @mdwest, I do the same thing when it comes down to rings. Unless I'm buying QR mounts, and in that case, I'll buy Alaskan Arms. I don't over think it anymore.
 
Only thing i would consider is maybe locktight. On the threads. But even then its not really that big a deal
I didnt think about that in my last post..

I do use loctite... pretty much every screw I turn on anything gets a little bit of blue put on it :)
 
Hakan Spuhr is pushing for the use of epoxy. Wet bedding scopes. I am convinced this is a better method after doing it to one of my own.
Well on That video I can see why. Looks to be a 34 mm scope tube, the scope probably weights 4 pounds, then there is the mount, which looks to weight another 4 pounds.
All of that for a hunting rifle?
For a PRS rifle ok I get it. Not that a PRS has as much recoil as say a 458 win mag model 70.
But to each their own. Everybody has a better mouse trap.
 
If in any doubt use a professional, they will bore sight it for you. It will help you in your zero in or you may be left wondering where the bullet hit.
I bore sighted my first but now I do it myself, simple just follow the process and I skip the lapping, epoxying etc, I do use a good torque wrench and Loctite blue on screws. No issues so far
 
If in any doubt use a professional, they will bore sight it for you. It will help you in your zero in or you may be left wondering where the bullet hit.
I bore sighted my first but now I do it myself, simple just follow the process and I skip the lapping, epoxying etc, I do use a good torque wrench and Loctite blue on screws. No issues so far
I also level my optics. But if your not shooting long distsnces its not super important
 
German-language hunting forums describe various methods for attaching rifle scopes with rings: 2-component adhesive, the use of plastic spacers, or latex parts from gloves. If rifle scopes are not glued into the rings, this naturally has the advantage that the mounting rings and the rifle scope can be reused more easily when changing the rifle scope. What experience is there with high-recoil cartridges in hot climates?

I use Wheeler lapping set.
When all is prepared and lapped, I do not use any glue. I apply just a little bit of white choke to increase friction between scope and rings.
Additionally I apply thread locker on bolts, using torque wrench.

This is short version.

It you need full details, of how to install basis, rings, scope, and align everything, please ask.

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