Hornady 250 GMX in a .375 Ruger

IvW

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Not a very good comparison to start with...

When you start with a -2.5 @ 50 and end up @ -5.5 @ 100 I am not sure what else you would expect.

A swift A frame @ 2559 fps will give a flat enough trajectory out to 300 yards for all practical hunting purpose especially in the Caprivi..

Height of trajectory above line of sight if sighted in a X yards. For sights 40 mm above bore

Sighted 2.6 " high at 100 it will be 10.9 low at 300. You hunt everything with that. If you go for the hippo you adjust down 10 clicks down for the shot and you are dead on at 100 yards. After the hippo is dead you click 10 back up and you are good to go out to 300 again. Hippo hunting is rarely a chance opportunity and it not like it is going to run off. So ample time to do that even if you happen upon one while scouting for PG.

Two different weight loads for one rifle on safari is a disaster waiting to happen. Yes solids and soft that print to the same POI are fine but not two different weight loads with vastly different POI.

A proper 300gr bullet and load is all that is needed. My experience is that too much emphasis is placed on MV to try and flatten trajectories rather than a single versatile load that the round was developed for and learning/practicing with that bullet/load combination and getting proficient with it.

My opinion anyway...

https://www.africahunting.com/threads/300-gr-swift-a-frame-375-h-h-load-data.55284/
https://www.africahunting.com/threads/375-h-h-swift-factory-300gr-a-frame.42129/

Other option for those who battle at longer range is a scope such us this.

No guessing or anything, use the right line and squeeze the trigger...sigted to zero @ 100...
+ = 100
2nd + = 200
3rd + = 300

After that get another PH if in the Caprivi...

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Screen Shot 2020-05-01 at 8.49.42 AM.png
 
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IvW

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Swift says 2503 FPS, but I’ve never chronographed them through my Sako kodiak. There is a noticeable difference in recoil between them and the Hornady ammunition so they are loaded hotter than Hornady.

Hornady are CRAP...
Swift would be about 2450Fps...

Normal 300gr speed for 300 gr should be about 2550...
 

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When I was talking to Barnes about my .300 Win Mag, they told me with mono bullets, you can go lighter and still get the same performance. They said I could use the 165/168 TTSX and still get the same, if not better performance than a lead based bullet of 180-190 grains. So with my .375 thoughts, my mind goes to the 250 because it should perform the same as a 300 grain Accubond. At least that's what they say anyway.
 

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When I was talking to Barnes about my .300 Win Mag, they told me with mono bullets, you can go lighter and still get the same performance. They said I could use the 165/168 TTSX and still get the same, if not better performance than a lead based bullet of 180-190 grains. So with my .375 thoughts, my mind goes to the 250 because it should perform the same as a 300 grain Accubond. At least that's what they say anyway.
And how much personal experience do "they" have whoever "they" are at Barnes in actually poking holes in cape buffalo? In all fairness to them, there is some truth that the somewhat lighter mono-metal bullets achieve surprisingly good penetration - particularly in medium calibers. Remember though, the lighter you go with a .375 the more that bullet starts to look and act like an ashtray. However fast it is going, it is useless, even dangerous, if it doesn't drive deep enough on on shots at real life angles at dangerous game. Sectional density still plays an important role in assuring deep penetration on large game like a buffalo.
 
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IvW

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And how much personal experience do "they" have whoever "they" are at Barnes in actually poking holes in cape buffalo? In all fairness to them, there is some truth that the somewhat lighter mono-metal bullets achieve surprisingly good penetration - particularly in medium calibers. Remember though, the lighter you go with a .375 the more that bullet starts to look and act like an ashtray. However fast it is going, it is useless, even dangerous, if it doesn't drive deep enough on on shots at real life angles at dangerous game. Sectional density still plays an important role in assuring deep penetration on large game like a buffalo.
:S Agree:
 

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And how much personal experience do "they" have whoever "they" are at Barnes in actually poking holes in cape buffalo? In all fairness to them, there is some truth that the somewhat lighter mono-metal bullets achieve surprisingly good penetration - particularly in medium calibers. Remember though, the lighter you go with a .375 the more that bullet starts to look and act like an ashtray. However fast it is going, it is useless, even dangerous, if it doesn't drive deep enough on on shots at real life angles at dangerous game. Sectional density still plays an important role in assuring deep penetration on large game like a buffalo.
I really have no idea of their experience. When it comes to me getting my Cape Buffalo, I will use whatever Andrias tells me too. He lives there, and has been guiding hunters for decades, so I trust him more than Barnes. I was just seeing what others thought about the theory of a mono can be lighter. He (Andrias) told me for use in the USA, he would use the 250 TTSX, but Africa he prefers a 300gr in the .375s, and a 400gr in the .416s.
 

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I really have no idea of their experience. When it comes to me getting my Cape Buffalo, I will use whatever Andrias tells me too. He lives there, and has been guiding hunters for decades, so I trust him more than Barnes. I was just seeing what others thought about the theory of a mono can be lighter. He (Andrias) told me for use in the USA, he would use the 250 TTSX, but Africa he prefers a 300gr in the .375s, and a 400gr in the .416s.
Here is a good thread if you haven’t found already. You can read it and decide for yourself if you want to give a try.

https://www.africahunting.com/threads/making-my-way-to-barnes.36029/
 

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When it comes to me getting my Cape Buffalo, I will use whatever Andrias tells me too.
Excellent decision! Do what ever your PH suggests!

I also believe it’s a good opportunity to use your safari rifle here in the US just to become familiar with, weight, function, handling, etc. Even identical model rifles in different (particularly lesser) calibers can handle differently. Learning to handle the recoil of one heavier recoiling cartridge can be important to muscle memory.

As the old cliche states...”beware the man who only owns one gun. He likely knows how to use it.” Or something like that.

Me, I’m a retired engineer who has to keep testing and experimenting (an illness I assume). Consequently I shoot differing weight, differing design and differing brands.
 

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Viral_SIGness

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Excellent decision! Do what ever your PH suggests!

I also believe it’s a good opportunity to use your safari rifle here in the US just to become familiar with, weight, function, handling, etc. Even identical model rifles in different (particularly lesser) calibers can handle differently. Learning to handle the recoil of one heavier recoiling cartridge can be important to muscle memory.

As the old cliche states...”beware the man who only owns one gun. He likely knows how to use it.” Or something like that.

Me, I’m a retired engineer who has to keep testing and experimenting (an illness I assume). Consequently I shoot differing weight, differing design and differing brands.
I used to have lots of guns, but a divorce and hard times separated me from all that. Right now I own one rifle. A Ruger M77 MkII Stainless. 300 Win Mag. It shoots 180 TTSX under 1/2".
20191119_184023.jpg
20191026_213729-1209x1612.jpg


I'm selling the .300, and the .375 will be my one. I hate selling a gun to get a gun. But I just bought my stepson a Ruger American Go Wild in 7mm-08, and my wife a stainless Savage in 6.5 Creedmoor, because they want to hunt with me.

My friend told me to not even scope it until I've become familiar with it. He said don't even start shooting from sand bags, or anything like that. He said shoot offhand with iron sights, until I can consistently hit a football size target at 40 yards. I'm excited about getting this, because I've always wanted a big bore.

I appreciate all the warm welcome and helpful advice!
 

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I used to have lots of guns, but a divorce and hard times separated me from all that. Right now I own one rifle. A Ruger M77 MkII Stainless. 300 Win Mag. It shoots 180 TTSX under 1/2".
View attachment 345457 View attachment 345458

I'm selling the .300, and the .375 will be my one. I hate selling a gun to get a gun. But I just bought my stepson a Ruger American Go Wild in 7mm-08, and my wife a stainless Savage in 6.5 Creedmoor, because they want to hunt with me.

My friend told me to not even scope it until I've become familiar with it. He said don't even start shooting from sand bags, or anything like that. He said shoot offhand with iron sights, until I can consistently hit a football size target at 40 yards. I'm excited about getting this, because I've always wanted a big bore.

I appreciate all the warm welcome and helpful advice!
Interesting and not particularly useful advice from your friend. I would not think of practicing with a rifle in any position until I knew exactly where it was hitting with a given load at any given range - particularly a range I intended to practice off-hand or on the sticks. Without knowing that, it is impossible to know how you are actually shooting. If you want to train with open sights, that is great. But first, find a solid rest so that you know exactly what the rifle is doing and capable of doing. You will be surprised how many rifles leave the factory with zero effort put into insuring it printed anywhere near the actual sight picture.
 

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I have several brand new rifles from factory. None of them ever had mechanical sights on zero - out of the box.
So, my usual procedure is first to zero the iron sights, then to mount the optics, and then to zero the optics.

I may be wrong, but, zeroing the iron sights come to extra work hours of factory labor, and factory gun makers in general do not like extra production costs. On that, I may be wrong, this is just my guessing.
 

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I have several brand new rifles from factory. None of them ever had mechanical sights on zero - out of the box.
So, my usual procedure is first to zero the iron sights, then to mount the optics, and then to zero the optics.

I may be wrong, but, zeroing the iron sights come to extra work hours of factory labor, and factory gun makers in general do not like extra production costs. On that, I may be wrong, this is just my guessing.
I'm going to order some Hornadys just to shoot it, and check the zero on the sights when it gets here. I believe I'll get the 270gr Interlocks instead of the 250 GMX, because the nickle cases aren't best for reloading, or at least I was always told.

We have a kill permit for deer because of our apple trees. So I can get some live practice too. I believe the 270 protected point Interlock will still expand on bambi. On the other hand, would you use this opportunity to test the 250 GMX?
 

Viral_SIGness

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Interesting and not particularly useful advice from your friend. I would not think of practicing with a rifle in any position until I knew exactly where it was hitting with a given load at any given range - particularly a range I intended to practice off-hand or on the sticks.
I'm new to big bores, but I'm not a Green Horn Gunner lol. After I check my POA/POI at 40 yards, then I will start trying different shooting positions.
 

Viral_SIGness

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⁷Speaking of Hornady, the 270gr "Superformance" is rated at 2840 fps. I'll assume that is from a 24" proof tube. Have any of yall ran them over a chrono from a 20" barrel ? Is it even worth muckin' with?
 

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I'm curious how the 250 grain GMX works on Whitetail up to Elk, Moose, and Brownies. Would it be suitable for Plains game on the Dark Continent, or would a 300gr Barnes TTSX be better?

Viral,

i have used the 250 gr gmx in the 375 ruger on caribou, moose and brown bear. on the recovered bullets, they were a perfect mushroom (actually 4 bladed propeller) it did a definitive job on all the animals.

i never chronographed them, they shot well, and did a fine job. i would not hesitate to use them. seems most guys answering here are triple shock fans and i am sure they would do every bit as good or better, might be tough finding a factory load for them tho.
 

Viral_SIGness

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Viral,

i have used the 250 gr gmx in the 375 ruger on caribou, moose and brown bear. on the recovered bullets, they were a perfect mushroom (actually 4 bladed propeller) it did a definitive job on all the animals.

i never chronographed them, they shot well, and did a fine job. i would not hesitate to use them. seems most guys answering here are triple shock fans and i am sure they would do every bit as good or better, might be tough finding a factory load for them tho.
Thanks DirtHawker! I'll definitely go ahead and try them.

As for the 250 TTSX, the guys at Choice Ammunition is how I got a factory loaded TTSX for my .300 Win Mag.
20191027_013904-529x209.jpg

They load the 250 TTSX to 2820 fps

Screenshot_20200502-032855_Samsung Internet.jpg


They shot phenomenal in the .300 Win Mag, and I chalk that up to them being 100% hand loaded, with every charge hand weighed.
 

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Can't coment on the 250 in a 375, but the GMX bullet in my wife's 338 has performed wonderfully. We have recovered only 2 of them and they looked like a ad in a magazine, just like a typical Barnes.
She has shot 14 animal in Africa with it from Steinbeck to blue wildebeest, and croc with that gmx bullet. longest shot was 225yards on her black wildebeest.
 

Viral_SIGness

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Can't coment on the 250 in a 375, but the GMX bullet in my wife's 338 has performed wonderfully. We have recovered only 2 of them and they looked like a ad in a magazine, just like a typical Barnes.
She has shot 14 animal in Africa with it from Steinbeck to blue wildebeest, and croc with that gmx bullet. longest shot was 225yards on her black wildebeest.
That sounds really good!
 

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