Gun Stock

[Deleted member 53080]

This idea popped in my head the other day. It is to have a stock (or 2-3) made from a tree from my parents property where I grew up. There are a number of black walnut trees on the ground that have been downed over the years and I know someone who has a sawmill. Just have to find one in good shape, hopefully that happens. I was wondering if anyone had experience with sending a blank plank/block off to have a stock made and who to use?

 

[Deleted member 53080]

Probably should have named the thread “Having a custom stock made” or something of the sort.

 

[Shootist43]

Here is a link to a stock-maker that has been used by AH members in the past. He can probably answer your questions. http://www.rifle-stocks.com/

I've thought about doing something similar.

 

[Deleted member 53080]

Thank you sir!

 

[Deleted member 53080]

It would be neat

 

[USMA84DAB]

I think your idea is great - building a rifle with provenance (I think that is the fancy word - a special history, a story) will make it a heirloom you will treasure each time your eyes drink it in and it is cradled in your hands. Best of luck on your quest!

 

[Standard Velocity]

Find a guy who understands how to look for figure in the tree. The closer to the root ball the denser the wood and the closer to gnarly spots the more likely to have figure. Also keep in mind that quarter sawn or rift sawn may show excellent character that flat sawn would completely miss in the same piece of wood. Sapwood can be pretty but heartwood is denser and generally better looking.

Drying large cuts of wood is a skill I’ve yet to master. If it dries too quickly you’ll get lots of checking and warping. There is a paintable product for the end grain that minimizes checking. I think shellac may also work for this. Blocks of wood large enough to make a stock from take years to dry. If you want three stocks it may be wise to cut six or more blanks from the trees.

Good luck in your endeavor!

 

[Shootist43]

Standard Velocity, I was hesitant to rain on this parade but your comment about larger blocks of wood taking years to dry, gets right to the heart of the matter. I don't know if thicker pieces of wood can be kiln dried and shorten the time between cutting down a tree and making a suitable gunstock. Von Gruff, do you have any comments to share with us on this topic?

 

[Standard Velocity]

Standard Velocity, I was hesitant to rain on this parade but your comment about larger blocks of wood taking years to dry, gets right to the heart of the matter. I don't know if thicker pieces of wood can be kiln dried and shorten the time between cutting down a tree and making a suitable gunstock. Von Gruff, do you have any comments to share with us on this topic?

Von Gruff is probably the best resource for useful information on this. I’ve had little luck in drying anything thicker than 2”. Controlled humidity is supposed to be key. The thicker the piece, drying takes exponentially longer.

I hope this information doesn’t rain on anyone’s parade. On the contrary, I hope it makes the road less bumpy and being armed with good information fortifies his resolve to tackle this project in a way that ensures success. I have a couple of piles of lessons learned the hard way. Measure twice, cut once.

 

[nztimb]

Air dried timber is the best if you have the time to devote to this with time needed typically being a year per inch of thickness of the blank and for a 2 1/2 inch blank, cut them at 3 inches and I would allow 3 years minimum to naturally air dry. The walnut I get from NZ Walnut is typically air dried for minimum 5 years and often the blanks I get are 7 or more years from being a tree. Paint or wax the ends of the planks and strip stack under cover but where free air flow is available. Preferably in an area where humidity from the atmosphere will not have too much effect. In a shed or workshop that is warmed during the colder weather is a good place as the drying is slow but constant.
This is a good piece on drying wood and outlines the pitfalls of kiln drying which is a method that no blank supplier will use and good stockmakers will be loathe to use a blank that has been agressively kiln dried as it is never as stable as naturally air dried wood.
https://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/drying-wood-at-home/

 

[Ray B]

A friend of ours was in the burl business for years where he would dig up walnut orchards and have the root burl sent off to Japan or Italy to be veneered. the remainder of the tree was by-product, which included a lot of really nice wood from the trunk. An associate of his would salvage it and "plank" it into gunstock size blanks. Then he'd stack it with spacers for air to get to it. This airing was a several years process and he didn't try to rush it. At the end of the time he'd have several quality blanks. You may recall the problem Browning had when they tried to speed up the process by salting the blanks. The salt was absorbed into the wood, and when turned into a gunstock, resulted in rusting the metal fitted to it. Cost Browning a lot of money and reputation. People are still cautious of any browning from that era. I have a blank that I promised to VonGruff awhile back that I got from the stock guy about forty years ago, so it is well seasoned- unfortunately, now I can't find it. but I know it's around here somewhere.

 

[Deleted member 53080]

Thanks everyone for your input and well wishes, especially on the sawing patterns and drying technique/ time. 3-5 years will give me some time to get some decent barreled actions together anyways. Thanks again!