Gun cleaning behind all copper ammo

bruce moulds

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bob, i have seen fclass barrels go off the boil after less than 200 shots.
a good rod guide helps the rod stay away from barrel material.
i don't think bronze brushes hurt barrels, and use them and nylon.
you can minimize strokes by soaking to some degree.
rods will wear a throat out of round if used roughly.
the other area to be respectful of is the crowning so you have to act accordingly there.
bruce.
 

bruce moulds

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add to the above.
a lot of 303s show oval shaped muzzles, developed from poor usage of pull throughs.
the cord gets impregnated with primer material which is extremely abrasive.
this brings into question the use of bore snakes!
i have also seen a number of range rifles, 303 and 308, that had oval throats from rods not centered.
some guys will only push things out the muzzle, and never pull them back to protect the crown.
copper is easy to get out, but carbon can be another thing altogether.
carbon not removed turns into something like ceramic with repeated heat of firing, and gets harder than the barrel steel.
it is almost immune to ant solvent, and can only be removed with abrasives,
being harder than the barrel, abrasives will remove barrel steel before the carbon - not good.
far better to remove it in small amounts before it gets bad.
bruce.
 

JPmbogo

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Amen, so what is "proper cleaning"? Obviously, based on the responses to this thread, that seems to be a very subjective standard.
 

Ike85123

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I have the same barrel on my Remington 700 300wm that came with it in 2005. I brush it after every range session. Ive never lost any accuracy with it and I shoot it weekly.i use the brush, then pads with solvent, then brush ,then a dry pad. Then I use the oil in the barrel and the action before I put it away.
 

rookhawk

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Amen, so what is "proper cleaning"? Obviously, based on the responses to this thread, that seems to be a very subjective standard.

Indeed, its relative. But I have bought many guns that were shot out and innaccurate only to find that with proper cleaning for 30-60 days they were sub-MOA guns.

Accumulated powder, rust, lead, and copper can layer up over decades of use and when removed gently over many, many days may reveal an as-new barrel underneath.
 
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Indeed, its relative. But I have bought many guns that were shot out and innaccurate only to find that with proper cleaning for 30-60 days they were sub-MOA guns.

Accumulated powder, rust, lead, and copper can layer up over decades of use and when removed gently over many, many days may reveal an as-new barrel underneath.
@rookhawk
And you pick the up cheap because of people's laziness and lack of knowledge.
Bob
 

rookhawk

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@rookhawk
And you pick the up cheap because of people's laziness and lack of knowledge.
Bob

100%
Bought a Westley Richards that was incorrectly discounted $10,000 because of a ruined bore. (It was metford rifled and shot sub-moa after serious cleaning)

It’s pretty hard to shoot out a barrel in a hunting rifle, near impossible if it’s not a cartridge shooting 3400-4000fps.
 
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Bought a Westley Richards that was incorrectly discounted $10,000 because of a ruined bore. (It was metford rifled and shot sub-moa after serious cleaning)

It’s pretty hard to shoot out a barrel in a hunting rifle, near impossible if it’s not a cartridge shooting 3400-4000fps.
@rookhawk
We have hunters over here in OZ that shoot out a barrel every year hunting roos professionally.
Bob
 

Philip Glass

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The gurus tell me to use Wipe Out. Spray it in the barrel and leave overnight then run patches.
 

Nhoro

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Interesting chat- Here is my 5 c. Copper is less reactive than iron/steel. So reagents like ammonia or other oxidising agents will react with iron in preference to copper. If they are very clever, they may use chelating agents to prefer copper in their reaction mechanism but I am not sure there is enough money in gun cleaning (price point market) to warrant too much cleverness.

Bottom line is copper removing chemicals will probably remove more steel inside your barrel than copper.
 

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